Big 3 upgrade did squat. Deep cycle or 'normal' battery?

[WhatsAminiTruck]

Okay so, I recently did the 'big 3' upgrade, and it helped.... barely.

It's not that HUGE of an issue if I'm going over 15mph, but at idle... its hilariously bad. I'm trying to be able to play my system at full power with little to no voltage drop at idle. That is my goal

right now, the system is less that 600 watts and the voltage meter smacks 8 after every bass hit. I will soon be pushing more than 2.5k watts.... and I obviously need to beef up the electrical haha.

I am contemplating purchasing a second battery, and using it only to power the amp. If I do this,

can I hook BOTH of the batteries up to my single alternator?

can I ground both of the batteries to the same 'ground spots'?

Should I get a deep cycle battery, or a 'normal' battery?

^If I get a deep cycle battery, can I hook that to the alternator?

Thank you!

Looking to spend less than $200 for the battery.

Click to read more...

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

What truck ? If your big 3 isn't installed properly with good grounds. This will happen. Also what amp? Some are very power hungry . And last what size alt and are you using the stock battery ?

 

[Silverado SS 10+ year member]

If 600 watts is dropping you to 8 you will need more than a bat for 2.5k. Don't let your stuff drop that low it could damage your equipment and your truck

 

[WhatsAminiTruck]

96 dakota, I went from 10awg to 2awg upgrade on the big 3, and used new 'crimps' or whatever their called. And I cleaned all the old screw hole thingies with a wire brush, I made sure there was no debris or anything blocking them.

It's stock alt, and a duralast battery uhhh, it says 24-DL with 110 reserve. I think it was just "better" rating from autozone lol.

The amp is a la-4200 bridged to two subs. In the future, I will be powering the LA-4200 and a SAZ-1500, so.... yea lol

 

[WhatsAminiTruck]

If 600 watts is dropping you to 8 you will need more than a bat for 2.5k. Don't let your stuff drop that low it could damage your equipment and your truck

What else are you talking about? a new alt?

And I got the alt tested, its stable at like... 13.75 volts or something

What truck ? If your big 3 isn't installed properly with good grounds. This will happen. Also what amp? Some are very power hungry . And last what size alt and are you using the stock battery ?

Tried to respond earlier, but apparently the one post I made 5 mins ago has to be approved by a mod? Lol what.

Anyways, Its a 96 dakota. I went from 10awg to 2awg and used new 'crimps' or whatever they are called. And I cleaned the connecting spots with a wire brush and cleared away any debris. Its a stock alt... guessing 90 amps? and the battery says 24-DL and 110 reserve. I think it was only a "better" rating from autozone lol

Oh, and the amp is a LA-4200 bridged. And in the future, it will be the LA-4200 and an SAZ-1500

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

What else are you talking about? a new alt?
And I got the alt tested, its stable at like... 13.75 volts or something

You will most definitely need a new alternator. Stable voltage means nothing if it can only produce 90A.

Also, when you did your Big 3, did you remove the OEM wires or add on top of them?

 

[WhatsAminiTruck]

You will most definitely need a new alternator. Stable voltage means nothing if it can only produce 90A.
Also, when you did your Big 3, did you remove the OEM wires or add on top of them?

2 days ago and OEM wires? Do you mean the stock ones? Yea, those are gone.

Could I use a 120 amp alt...? or will I need a HO one

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

2 days ago and OEM wires? Do you mean the stock ones? Yea, those are gone. Could I use a 120 amp alt...? or will I need a HO one

You should not have removed the OEM (stock) wires.

At 2.5kw I would recommend an HO alt, even 120A won't be able to keep up and you'll will damage the alternator. Especially if your goal is no drop at full tilt at idle.

 

[WhatsAminiTruck]

You should not have removed the OEM (stock) wires.
At 2.5kw I would recommend an HO alt, even 120A won't be able to keep up and you'll will damage the alternator. Especially if your goal is no drop at full tilt at idle.

Poopy... okay. And why not? @removing the 10awg wires

and for the quick fix now.... for the 600watt system, what battery setup...?

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

You'll need at least a 200 amp alt. put the stock wires back if you can thetes your main problem. Never remove just add

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

If his vehicle doesn't "look" at the resistance of the factory ground wires he removed it won't do any harm to remove them. It can't hurt to put them back on for troubleshooting.

 

[WhatsAminiTruck]

@chassis ground

Should I make a NEW ground point for the new wire and replace the old one in its og spot? Or just squish both onto the same ground point?

And with the Alt positive.... it was a pain in the *** to fit the 2awg in there... how the crap am I gonna fit both?

And there is a fuse thing from alt to positive... do I strap both onto the same fuse?

 

[bubbagumper6 5,000+ posts]

Poopy... okay. And why not? @removing the 10awg wires
and for the quick fix now.... for the 600watt system, what battery setup...?

I've found that occasionally the OEM wires will feed other things aside from what you'd expect. Although if you removed them I imagine you would have noticed if you had to disconnect them from something besides the battery/alt/chassis. But in any case, electrical current will divide itself between the old and the new, obviously the new being larger will handle the majority but the old will still carry some (i.e. you'll see a slight benefit) but it will never hurt. This is why we always recommend the OEM wires be left alone.

As a general rule of thumb I recommend 100A of alt power for every 1kw of amp power. Obviously this has it's limitations especially when you get into higher power systems but it works pretty well for

At only 600w there's no reason your stock electrical shouldn't be able to keep up unless you already have a failing electrical component.

 

[gckless 5,000+ posts]

If you're dropping to 8V running less than 1k, you've got a combination of existing problems. Battery is crap, you need more charging supply, you may need better connections. Where and with what are you measuring voltage?

The I've found that occasionally the OEM wires will feed other things aside from what you'd expect. Although if you removed them I imagine you would have noticed if you had to disconnect them from something besides the battery/alt/chassis. But in any case, electrical current will divide itself between the old and the new, obviously the new being larger will handle the majority but the old will still carry some (i.e. you'll see a slight benefit) but it will never hurt. This is why we always recommend the OEM wires be left alone.
As a general rule of thumb I recommend 100A of alt power for every 1kw of amp power. Obviously this has it's limitations especially when you get into higher power systems but it works pretty well for

At only 600w there's no reason your stock electrical shouldn't be able to keep up unless you already have a failing electrical component.

This whole post, but the bold especially.

 

[WhatsAminiTruck]

Do I have to make a new ground point for the chassis negative? Or just squish the old and new together?

And can I use the same fuse block for both the 2awg and 10awg for alt to positive?