Better to move the box up front?

plyer3
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
Will it be better to move my sub box up closer in the trunk? Guy at a shop said it'll be louder, just got to find a way to hold the box down closer to the front.

Also, looks like my system is pulling too much power, will a kinetik hc2400 be better in the trunk instead of the hc1400 or should i just get a new alternator?

my current alternator stated 175amps, but i doubt it does that especially at idle. thinking of getting a mechman, but any other options? price is a factor here.

pic of my fi btl, old pic. box has been carpeted.

DSC00241.jpg


 
HA, I thought that trunk looked familiar. I saw the 6x9 speaker leads hanging down, then noticed the shape of the trunk looked very similar, and sure enough got to the bottom of your post and you have a 99 honda accord!!

The best two ways of having the system set up is the way you have it now, sub box all the way back against the seat with subs facing license plate and the backseat armrest open. The other is having the subs face UP, box against the back seat, and back seat armrest open.

I've noticed, though, that if you lean forward while driving that the bass sounds louder than where you normally sit...kind of annoying...

How loud is your current setup do you think? I can't meter mine, but it makes my nose and throat vibrate...would be interesting to compare the two since we have the same vehicle.

ANYWAY I have a mechman 200amp alt, and with my current setup my lights just BARELY dim when I'm at 2k rpm and blasting the stereo. That's with only the alt and a yellow top up front. No extra batts in the back or anything. HOWEVER...I guess our cars have a crappy pulley setup. I have some sweet belt squeal EVERYTIME I start the vehicle, and it goes away after about 1-10 seconds...can't seem to get it to stop doing that...and I'm 100% positive it's the alt belt...

You can contact DC power too, I hear they're offering something now for our vehicles.

 
HA, I thought that trunk looked familiar. I saw the 6x9 speaker leads hanging down, then noticed the shape of the trunk looked very similar, and sure enough got to the bottom of your post and you have a 99 honda accord!!
The best two ways of having the system set up is the way you have it now, sub box all the way back against the seat with subs facing license plate and the backseat armrest open. The other is having the subs face UP, box against the back seat, and back seat armrest open.

I've noticed, though, that if you lean forward while driving that the bass sounds louder than where you normally sit...kind of annoying...

How loud is your current setup do you think? I can't meter mine, but it makes my nose and throat vibrate...would be interesting to compare the two since we have the same vehicle.

ANYWAY I have a mechman 200amp alt, and with my current setup my lights just BARELY dim when I'm at 2k rpm and blasting the stereo. That's with only the alt and a yellow top up front. No extra batts in the back or anything. HOWEVER...I guess our cars have a crappy pulley setup. I have some sweet belt squeal EVERYTIME I start the vehicle, and it goes away after about 1-10 seconds...can't seem to get it to stop doing that...and I'm 100% positive it's the alt belt...

You can contact DC power too, I hear they're offering something now for our vehicles.
haha it's pretty loud, probably not as loud as it could be if i had a better eletrical system. that 200amp mechman would help me a lot. yea ive heard about the pulley, don't know how to fix that.

my lights just started dimming again, i dont know why haha. was fine blasting the system at 3/4 volume, but now it dims and volts drop to 10 when on full power. few months ago it stayed at 13.8 on full..hmmm

 
id say take the hc1400( if it will fit) and put it under the hood and put a hc2400 in the trunk. im running about 4k on stock alt with stock batt up front, hc2400 and hc1800 in rear and have no dimming issues or much voltage loss at all

 
id say take the hc1400( if it will fit) and put it under the hood and put a hc2400 in the trunk. im running about 4k on stock alt with stock batt up front, hc2400 and hc1800 in rear and have no dimming issues or much voltage loss at all
yea i should've done the hc1800 in front, but was afraid that it wasnt gonna fit, well i was wrong haha

i'll probably switch the hc1400 with a hc2400 in the trunk to see how that will work out.

 
i think it will help out a bunch. what ohm load you running?
im just afraid it'll eventually start dimming again after running it on 3/4 vol for a while

it's on 1ohm load

so little over 2000 rms on the rf t20001, 400 on pdx and around 300 on p550.2

around 3000 rms or less is probably the estimate

 
If it's something new that just started happening, maybe one of your batteries are dying? Don't know too much about running multiple batts or anything...but if it's something new, then I'd think it's either a battery or your alt!

 
If it's something new that just started happening, maybe one of your batteries are dying? Don't know too much about running multiple batts or anything...but if it's something new, then I'd think it's either a battery or your alt!
my old stock alt has died before from running an orion 1200d. but if it's the alternator, then the car shouldn't be able to start. batteries...idk kinda doubt it.

 
If it's something new that just started happening, maybe one of your batteries are dying? Don't know too much about running multiple batts or anything...but if it's something new, then I'd think it's either a battery or your alt!
x2

honestly with around 2-3k i wouldnt worry about a ALT upgrade especially if you already have a 175a. id say check the battery's and try and adding a hc2400

 
x2honestly with around 2-3k i wouldnt worry about a ALT upgrade especially if you already have a 175a. id say check the battery's and try and adding a hc2400
yea i'll probably upgrade the hc1400 in the trunk. isolator isn't necessary is it? don't want to mess with it.

 
The car WILL start if your alt is messed up, but you will get a battery symbol on your dash letting you know the alt isn't charging your system.

Quick question, not trying to derail your thread, but how'd you get 6.5 and 5.25 for your front stage? Did you build kick panels?

 
The car WILL start if your alt is messed up, but you will get a battery symbol on your dash letting you know the alt isn't charging your system.
Quick question, not trying to derail your thread, but how'd you get 6.5 and 5.25 for your front stage? Did you build kick panels?
oh my engine check light came out and that's when the problem started. it's not the wires or anything, it's something else. the code reads ELD problem and high current.

6.5s are in my front doors and 5.25 are my kickpanels that i bought. they slide right into my door panels, i love them haha.

 
oh my engine check light came out and that's when the problem started. it's not the wires or anything, it's something else. the code reads ELD problem and high current.
6.5s are in my front doors and 5.25 are my kickpanels that i bought. they slide right into my door panels, i love them haha.
Sounds like your alt is jacked up if you're getting a high current error. What kind of alt is it???

My stupid check engine light came on too, but I'm getting an emissions fault...d*mn honda

--EDIT--

Where do they slide in at? It'd be great to get some more front stage action

 
Sounds like your alt is jacked up if you're getting a high current error. What kind of alt is it???
My stupid check engine light came on too, but I'm getting an emissions fault...d*mn honda

--EDIT--

Where do they slide in at? It'd be great to get some more front stage action
not 100% sure, but i think DB Electrical, bought a long time ago after my stock failed. i got it off eBay.

haha, i heard hondas have common problems like that.

the kick panels basically slide into the pnaels next to your foot rest. you have to take the foot rest out and the panel will fit there, easier on passenger side as you don't need to take anything out, just the front panel. they're basically a replacement of the first panel on the doors. Q-Logic makes them, i think they're about $100-$150 for a set.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

About this thread

plyer3

10+ year member
CarAudio.com Elite
Thread starter
plyer3
Joined
Location
N Little Rock, AR
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
21
Views
1,134
Last reply date
Last reply from
Boomintempo
20260423_214720.jpg

BP1Fanatic

    May 14, 2026
  • 0
  • 0
20260419_124349.jpg

BP1Fanatic

    May 14, 2026
  • 0
  • 0

New threads

Top