Better SQ amp set up?

[kramer_212 10+ year member]

Ok, regardless of the brand that I settle on...Am I on the right track though in my "head room" thinking?

yep i would consider some of the old school amps also, just for referance (dosn't have to be fosgate) but i o scoped my punch 4040 dsm (20 watts rms per channel into 4 ohms) it does just over 70 per channel into 4 ohms before clipping.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

See, that's what I was thinking. I thought it would really give me a clean/tight mid-bass by doubling my power. especially with those Pro60's and a sealed/deadened door. Right now, I'm getting good mid-bass because of those JL 6's in the back. But, It also sounds like to me that I'm losing a LOT below say 50hz.(which the JL10w6 should cure)
I'm just worried that I may loose some of that mid-bass sound that I have now, when I get rid of those JL6's...

doubling your power is probably going to make a somewhat noticeable difference. Those BA Pros like alot of power and in a properly sealed door should give you all the midbass you want. Not to mention, the midbass will be upfront where its supposed to be as opposed to behind you with the JL6s in the hatch. Plenty of SQ competitors are able to win comps with only a set of 6.5s upfront so that gives you an idea of what a nice set of properly setup comps can do for midbass. I think you'll be fine.

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

Just for "shits&giggles" I checked out the McIntosh site....And, I would have to buy TWO of their amps just to get the power that I have right now. Didn't find any prices anywhere...

If I'm thinking about this right...Too get the head room I need, I'm going to have to have around 200wrms for my front stage/Rear Fill and about 6oo to 700wrms for my sub-stage. Does that sound right?

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

On the McIntosh note, That just goes to show u how little power u actually need for SQ in some cases.

On the headroom, those seem like pretty nice numbers to start with

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

On the McIntosh note, That just goes to show u how little power u actually need for SQ in some cases.
On the headroom, those seem like pretty nice numbers to start with

So, you were saying that I can't bridge my XD700/5 amp with those BA Pro's? Here's the specs for that amp...

If I'm reading these correctly I should be able to bridge the "main channels" and get 200wrms x 4 right? If so that

takes care of my Stage/Fill. Then all I need is to get a HD750/1 for my sub. Is that right?

Also, do you think there is a noticeable difference in SQ between the XD and HD series?

Edit: specs for the current XD 700/5 amp

Main Channels @ 4 Ω 75 W RMS x 4

Main Channels @ 2 Ω 100 W RMS x 4

Main Channels - Bridged @ 4Ω 200 W RMS x 2

Subwoofer Channel @ 4 Ω 180 W RMS x 1

Subwoofer Channel @ 3 Ω 240 W RMS x 1

Subwoofer Channel @ 2 Ω 300 W RMS x 1

Subwoofer Channel @ 1.5 Ω N/A

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

So, you were saying that I can't bridge my XD700/5 amp with those BA Pro's? Here's the specs for that amp...If I'm reading these correctly I should be able to bridge the "main channels" and get 200wrms x 4 right? If so that

takes care of my Stage/Fill. Then all I need is to get a HD750/1 for my sub. Is that right?

Also, do you think there is a noticeable difference in SQ between the XD and HD series?

Edit: specs for the current XD 700/5 amp

Main Channels @ 4 Ω 75 W RMS x 4

Main Channels @ 2 Ω 100 W RMS x 4

Main Channels - Bridged @ 4Ω 200 W RMS x 2

Subwoofer Channel @ 4 Ω 180 W RMS x 1

Subwoofer Channel @ 3 Ω 240 W RMS x 1

Subwoofer Channel @ 2 Ω 300 W RMS x 1

Subwoofer Channel @ 1.5 Ω N/A

Bridged power is 200x2 AT 4 OHMS. minimum impedance bridged is 4 ohms.

The BA pros are 3 ohms. So your amp may or may not be stable that low bridged. But per the manual, it is not. Its possible you could make it work...it'll just be hit or miss...

No I dont think there is an audible difference in the 2 amps. Especially not for the price. The HD may run cooler and allow more tuning at the amp but your HU is good enough for that.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I REALLY don't like the sound of the new JL D class full ranges. The hertz was I bit better but not much. If you want real SQ stick with A/B. the hertz 4 channel was around 600 if I remember right.

 

[BnGRacing 10+ year member]

The only time you're going to get a lot of headroom is when you're sitting in your car with the engine off and listening to music.

As soon as you start moving the background wind, engine, & tire noise will eat up most of the headroom & nuances you get from a high quality high power amplifier. If you've set your gains @ 0dB overlap you'll probably drive around with the volume nearly at max on your HU. This is the part of the episode where the 'enlightened' forum rats scurry into your thread and try to convince you to tear your car apart and apply a couple hundred dollars worth of sound deadening. Sure, it'll make a difference in lowering road noise...but not enough to justify the PITA & the expense. Worse yet, if you only do your doors you'll just hear noise coming from some other part of the car and you'll be chasing ghosts instead of just enjoying your system.

As it sits, you have a pretty good amp. But since you're wondering how you can get better sound, that leads me to believe there's something you don't like about it. If I had to guess, I'd say that the Boston Pros are a little underwhelming to you. They sound good when EQ'd, they're tough as nails, but they don't have a lot of midbass or snap to them. Boston speakers never have...

The only other thing I can think of is that you're not liking the Class D stuff. Most people have a little clipping going on with their amps and the Class D stuff, notoriously, is a little more dry sounding...sometimes they get plain old gritty. If you're looking to swap to a new amp, look into a Class A/B with a good processing section. Audison is a name that comes to mind

I'd go shopping for new front speakers b/c I don't think you'll notice a difference if you throw more power at them.

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

Hmm. So to get that 200/700 number that I'm looking for I need to totally rethink what amp(s) I'm looking at because even the HD900/5 only gives me 100wrms x4 and 500x1. I'm still 100wrms and 200wrms short with my head room goals.

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

The only time you're going to get a lot of headroom is when you're sitting in your car with the engine off and listening to music.
As soon as you start moving the background wind, engine, & tire noise will eat up most of the headroom & nuances you get from a high quality high power amplifier. If you've set your gains @ 0dB overlap you'll probably drive around with the volume nearly at max on your HU. This is the part of the episode where the 'enlightened' forum rats scurry into your thread and try to convince you to tear your car apart and apply a couple hundred dollars worth of sound deadening. Sure, it'll make a difference in lowering road noise...but not enough to justify the PITA & the expense. Worse yet, if you only do your doors you'll just hear noise coming from some other part of the car and you'll be chasing ghosts instead of just enjoying your system.

As it sits, you have a pretty good amp. But since you're wondering how you can get better sound, that leads me to believe there's something you don't like about it. If I had to guess, I'd say that the Boston Pros are a little underwhelming to you. They sound good when EQ'd, they're tough as nails, but they don't have a lot of midbass or snap to them. Boston speakers never have...

The only other thing I can think of is that you're not liking the Class D stuff. Most people have a little clipping going on with their amps and the Class D stuff, notoriously, is a little more dry sounding...sometimes they get plain old gritty. If you're looking to swap to a new amp, look into a Class A/B with a good processing section. Audison is a name that comes to mind

I'd go shopping for new front speakers b/c I don't think you'll notice a difference if you throw more power at them.

I dont think he has it all installed yet....I think he's still piecing it all together...

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

The only time you're going to get a lot of headroom is when you're sitting in your car with the engine off and listening to music.
As soon as you start moving the background wind, engine, & tire noise will eat up most of the headroom & nuances you get from a high quality high power amplifier. If you've set your gains @ 0dB overlap you'll probably drive around with the volume nearly at max on your HU. This is the part of the episode where the 'enlightened' forum rats scurry into your thread and try to convince you to tear your car apart and apply a couple hundred dollars worth of sound deadening. Sure, it'll make a difference in lowering road noise...but not enough to justify the PITA & the expense. Worse yet, if you only do your doors you'll just hear noise coming from some other part of the car and you'll be chasing ghosts instead of just enjoying your system.

As it sits, you have a pretty good amp. But since you're wondering how you can get better sound, that leads me to believe there's something you don't like about it. If I had to guess, I'd say that the Boston Pros are a little underwhelming to you. They sound good when EQ'd, they're tough as nails, but they don't have a lot of midbass or snap to them. Boston speakers never have...

The only other thing I can think of is that you're not liking the Class D stuff. Most people have a little clipping going on with their amps and the Class D stuff, notoriously, is a little more dry sounding...sometimes they get plain old gritty. If you're looking to swap to a new amp, look into a Class A/B with a good processing section. Audison is a name that comes to mind

I'd go shopping for new front speakers b/c I don't think you'll notice a difference if you throw more power at them.

Interesting...

Never heard anyone that down on Boston speakers. On the display they had better mid-bass that the Focal's the JL's and the Hybrid's.

My thing is...I've heard what a competition car sounds like and that sound is my goal. I want...clean & crisp highs, clear mid's,

tight & accurate mid-bass, and a sub(s) that is flat down to around 25hrz.

I do have all of my doors deadened and it does make a helluva difference. Like you said though, I have noticed other noises (going to deaden my roof eventually) //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Edit: also, this is my first class D amp...So you may be right on that. I may need to check out a couple A/B amps to compare.

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

I dont think he has it all installed yet....I think he's still piecing it all together...

Correct. I don't have the Pro's installed yet.(been working a lot and haven't been able to get them installed yet)

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

If you are going to go class D full range sit down and listen to the amp side by side with A/B before you spend money. I did, I didnt go D

 

[Why So Cereal? 5,000+ posts]

Interesting...
Never heard anyone that down on Boston speakers. On the display they had better mid-bass that the Focal's the JL's and the Hybrid's.

My thing is...I've heard what a competition car sounds like and that sound is my goal. I want...clean & crisp highs, clear mid's,

tight & accurate mid-bass, and a sub(s) that is flat down to around 25hrz.

I do have all of my doors deadened and it does make a helluva difference. Like you said though, I have noticed other noises (going to deaden my roof eventually) //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

And that's why I had u listen to them all before you purchased (even though a sound board is less than ideal for auditioning). Out of the many reviews I've read on the BA Pros, he makes the 2nd to say they dont have midbass punch. Every other reviewer has said the midbass is pretty decent (not monstrous) but enough especially to blend with one 10w6. I even had some BA Pro 5.25s and the midbass on them was darn good for a 5.25 on about 45wrms to the set.

Remember what sounds great to u, may sound like garbage to someone else and vice versa. In the end, you're riding with it everyday so get it to where YOU enjoy it. I say ahead and run the BA Pros since you like them and if you find they are lacking in midbass after you've perfected the install...go from there...

 

[thevolunator 10+ year member]

And that's why I had u listen to them all before you purchased (even though a sound board is less than ideal for auditioning). Out of the many reviews I've read on the BA Pros, he makes the 2nd to say they dont have midbass punch. Every other reviewer has said the midbass is pretty decent (not monstrous) but enough especially to blend with one 10w6. I even had some BA Pro 5.25s and the midbass on them was darn good for a 5.25 on about 45wrms to the set.
Remember what sounds great to u, may sound like garbage to someone else and vice versa. In the end, you're riding with it everyday so get it to where YOU enjoy it. I say ahead and run the BA Pros since you like them and if you find they are lacking in midbass after you've perfected the install...go from there...

" I say ahead and run the BA Pros since you like them and if you find they are lacking in midbass after you've perfected the install...go from there..."

Pretty much exactly what the guy at the dealer said a couple weeks ago when talking about my JL 6's. Said that I should hang on to them(instead of trying to sell them) and if later on I wanted more mid-bass they could make "kicks" for them up front.