Best screws for 3/4 mdf?

looks nice.

My drill has a detachable chuck, so I can put a screwdriver bit in the drill, then put the chuck on, which has the drill bit in it, so no changing bits ftw.

00000115843-BlackDeckerFirestorm144VoltCordlessDrillDriverFS1400D2-large.jpeg


Mine's the same thing, except 18v. It makes switching so easy

 
looks nice.
My drill has a detachable chuck, so I can put a screwdriver bit in the drill, then put the chuck on, which has the drill bit in it, so no changing bits ftw.

00000115843-BlackDeckerFirestorm144VoltCordlessDrillDriverFS1400D2-large.jpeg


Mine's the same thing, except 18v. It makes switching so easy
My drill is like that, except its an 18 volt Skil.

Works great.

Plus I use a 18 volt Ridgid close quarters impact driver, for when i really wanna get em in fast...

 
looks nice.
My drill has a detachable chuck, so I can put a screwdriver bit in the drill, then put the chuck on, which has the drill bit in it, so no changing bits ftw.

00000115843-BlackDeckerFirestorm144VoltCordlessDrillDriverFS1400D2-large.jpeg


Mine's the same thing, except 18v. It makes switching so easy
My Drill > Your Drill

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

DC920KA_1.jpg


 
I had a craftsman, but the batt took a dump on me. as craftsman batts tend to do. I have really liked the B&D, though, despite their crappy reputation. It suits my needs well, and it was free //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif

 
My Drill > Your Drill
//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

DC920KA_1.jpg
For schneezy....

Used one of those today at the shop to mount one of my mdf rings to the door panel....nice fawkin drill

 
For schneezy....
Used one of those today at the shop to mount one of my mdf rings to the door panel....nice fawkin drill
You can seriously almost put a hole in anything with that drill...

We were doing a big install on the side of a school made of some thick concrete and my dad got tired of waiting on his drill to cool down (older 14.4 volt Dewalt)...

Left, went to Fastenall came back with that bad mother. Now, some how we have 2 of them...

 
I'll look what they are when I get home...
But, I have tried a variety of screws...

I KNOW I only buy ones with Robertson #2 Square heads and not Phillips any more...
I thought the reason for the square head was to apply more torque without stripping out the head like a Phillips can do at times. For box building you shouldn't be tightening them THAT much //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif Great deck screws though...

I use 3 cordless drills: 5/32" bit, countersink bit, and Phillips, so NO changes FTW.

 
I thought the reason for the square head was to apply more torque without stripping out the head like a Phillips can do at times. For box building you shouldn't be tightening them THAT much //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eek.gif.771b7a90cf45cabdc554ff1121c21c4a.gif Great deck screws though...
I use 3 cordless drills: 5/32" bit, countersink bit, and Phillips, so NO changes FTW.
Well... I don't sink them that hard... But, when you are trying to do it fast you can strip a Phillips pretty easy... So, I just use the square...

That extra torque is nice when you put your speaker in however... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Not that it matters much, but if you already have the screws in, why waste the time of taking them out? I'm just curious really. I understand the whole making it smooth, but can't you just add the filler on top of the screw (if you countersink them, obviously)?
Many reasons, one example is so you can run a router over it smoothly without worrying about hitting a screwhead and destroying a $20-30 or so router bit.

 
The truth is, you can just use 1 5/8" fine thread drywall screws. You don't have to pre-drill as long as you stay 2.5" away from the end of your boards.

You can put alil pressure on the fine thread screws and counter-sink them when they go in. I never hit em w/ the router....they work great and their FAST. I also use Titebond 2 or 3.

375931.jpg


 
Many reasons, one example is so you can run a router over it smoothly without worrying about hitting a screwhead and destroying a $20-30 or so router bit.
Oh ok. I usually just let it be, because I just carpet my boxes. Never really bothered me much since it would be covered.

 
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