Best Battery for My Needs

[techjunkie564]

After dealing with a dead battery one too many times I'm finally in the market for a secondary battery. First, let me explain me usage.

-I do not normally have the sub blasting. I like to think I have a SQ setup and I do have the entire system up around 22/35 when driving with the windows down (summer)

-I drive to home from school (3.5 hours) in which the system will be around 18/35 volume

-I can tell the system loses power when I turn it up because the Sub noticeably loses it's oomph while the comps remain most of their composure.

-I'm driving a small VW Jetta with a high powered standard battery up front and 120amp alternator. I have 0 guage going to the back already that I will be setting up correctly to work with another battery

It needs to power ~2,200w RMS

With that said I have been looking at XS and Kinetik. It seems that this forum much preferes XS so which particular model would be best in my situation? Thanks!

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[clickclickw00t 10+ year member]

Batteries don't make power, alternators do. A battery will keep your voltage from dipping but you need to charge it somehow.

 

[naughtyca 10+ year member]

you probably want to invest on a volt meter first to see where your voltage are, sams club has a $100 battery that works good

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

You need a larger alternator. You can buy a good battery but its going to fail if not maintained

 

[Fattony911 10+ year member]

Big 3 have you

 

[Silverado SS 10+ year member]

Shuriken BT 35 or 45

 

[techjunkie564]

Big 3 have you
Yes, I've done the big three. My biggest concern is that when I drive home or for an extended period (1+ hours) I drain everything that's in the battery. So when I go to start it after the trek it's dead.

I was blessed with having the largest alternator VW provided for the 2.0L Jetta. Looks like a 180amp version would be roughly $400 plus cost to install. I figured wiring a secondary battery (KHC-2000?) in the trunk would resolve my issues. I would wire it so that it would only pull power from the main battery with two fuses and another part that I'm not too sure on.

Please continue to chime in as I'm open to any ideas. Just trying to keep the costs down as much as possible.

 

[boxpunch]

Yes while an alternator would feed your higher current needs you'd still need to maintain your batteries as the alternator only puts out what it's draw is.

Adding an xs power d4700 should do you just fine to keep the voltage up.

On a side note, if your car is dead after driving 3.5 hours with the system playing, there's a problem in your charging system somewhere. Your battery shouldn't be drained below 12v as it still should be getting output from the alternator.

The audiopipe volt meters (blue led) are similar to the stinger ones at a cheaper price. You should look into getting one.

 

[Boomsday 10+ year member]

buy my last deka, and you will be set

 

[techjunkie564]

Yes while an alternator would feed your higher current needs you'd still need to maintain your batteries as the alternator only puts out what it's draw is.
Adding an xs power d4700 should do you just fine to keep the voltage up.

On a side note, if your car is dead after driving 3.5 hours with the system playing, there's a problem in your charging system somewhere. Your battery shouldn't be drained below 12v as it still should be getting output from the alternator.

The audiopipe volt meters (blue led) are similar to the stinger ones at a cheaper price. You should look into getting one.

I have a voltage meter but where should I start checking? I'm assuming the alternator's output, should be 14.4v right?

Then you mention maintaining the batteries if I go this route. What all does this entail? Charging them to capacity when I get the chance?

I imagine I'll have the secondary battery in the trunk with an isolator so I would be able to charge it from just putting the prongs on the main battery correct?

I always think I've done my research on things until I run into problems myself..

 

[boxpunch]

Voltage on some cars is regulated by the computer of the car. So it could be 14.4 or it could be lower. Voltage is different than amperage. If you go to autozone and talk to the right person (not all of them are knowledgable but some are) they should be able to conduct a test of your battery and alt while its still in the car.

When I had a bigger system in (or when I build others) I make sure to place a low amperage charger on the car to top off the batteries. Without maintaining a battery voltage will dip lower and lower enough time of that issue and the plates will sulfate causing higher resistance and cause the battery to die.

 

[boxpunch]

Dbl post ipad fail.

 

[techjunkie564]

So I have the option to get an XS D3100 for $200 off a local guy. Thing is it's 1.5 years old. Still rests at 12.8 but I'd have no warranty.

For $200 I can just go over to Auto Zone and get the Duralast H8-AGM with a 3 year warranty.

So the question - is a 1.5 year old D3100 a better option than a rebranded Deka H8?

 

[Oraclem19]

Check everything is functional on charging system, going to say after near 2 years that battery can't be in as good of condition as it started as. Given that started condition is about 1400 CA, and is tempting, you have no idea how he treated the battery.

Would say use a manual (or voltage switching) battery isolator if you can afford the latter and put either battery in the trunk. Voltage switch isolator will make things worry free, and above the needed voltage, manual flip switch isolator will need you to put a voltage monitor in the front of the car and keep an eye on it every hour or so. 2 voltage monitors and a manual switch can keep both your system and car charged though.

 

[NIHL8ION]

Check everything is functional on charging system, going to say after near 2 years that battery can't be in as good of condition as it started as. Given that started condition is about 1400 CA, and is tempting, you have no idea how he treated the battery.
Would say use a manual (or voltage switching) battery isolator if you can afford the latter and put either battery in the trunk. Voltage switch isolator will make things worry free, and above the needed voltage, manual flip switch isolator will need you to put a voltage monitor in the front of the car and keep an eye on it every hour or so. 2 voltage monitors and a manual switch can keep both your system and car charged though.

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