Best 10" For Under $110?

[John2005 10+ year member]

First of all the sub will be going in http://www.subthump.com/acamarostealth.htm the 10" Driver Side Box. It has .6 cu.ft. of air space and a mounting depth is 9".

It will be played on a MMATS1400.1 amp unbridged. I would like to be able to have the gain set at 3/4 on the amp without having to worry about the sub blowing.

I will just be using it for a month when I drive out of state and am visiting family in that state and when I pull out my 2 x 15" Kicker L7's when more than one friend wants to ride in my car.

It doesn't matter if the sub is more of an sq sub than an spl sub or vise-versa as long as it meets the requirements above.

Also in your recommendation of subs please leave a link to where I can buy one at.

Click to read more...

 

[FineLinePimpin 10+ year member]

A sub to handle that much power...with the gain that high....and a 10in for under 110 bucks....better start surfing the classifieds

 

[John2005 10+ year member]

I an not bridging it so it will only be 700Watts...and at 3/4...id think it'd be like 600watts maybe..correct me if I am wrong. I can also turn down the gain some more to if I need to.

 

[djman37 5,000+ posts]

grab an MBQ from a link posted yesterday 99.99.

you need something that will perform well in a sealed enclosure.

 

[John2005 10+ year member]

This mbq? - http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=3171

Peak is only 600watts.

 

[djman37 5,000+ posts]

This mbq? - http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=3171
Peak is only 600watts.

no, more like this:

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=3170

 

[John2005 10+ year member]

problem is thats a 12"

 

[PatFitz9 10+ year member]

learn how to set your gains

 

[John2005 10+ year member]

learn how to set your gains

That helped a lot //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif....you could have at least explained your reason behind what you said other then basically telling me I am wrong with my settings.

 

[95bat 10+ year member]

IDQ would work great since the box is so small. You'd have to turn the amp down though.

Other options would be a db-500 or TC-1000. They can both be put in small boxes.

All are a little above your budget though.

 

[djman37 5,000+ posts]

problem is thats a 12"

my bad, i thought the box said for 10 or 12... it says for 8 or 10.

 

[DejaWiz 5,000+ posts]

That helped a lot //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif....you could have at least explained your reason behind what you said other then basically telling me I am wrong with my settings.

The gain is not a volume control... it's to match the input voltage of your HU's preouts to prevent clipping which 99% of the time will result in physical damage to your sub if not the amp as well.

If your HU has 2V preouts, then you set the amp gains for just that. Same as if your HU has 4V or 8V preouts.

The "chain of command" to prevent distortion and clipping is like this:

I. HU - find the max volume you can set before distortion occurs. Usually in the neighborhood of 70-80% of max volume for a majority of HU's. 75% is usually the rule of thumb. An oscilloscope can be used to determine exactly where this point is on your volume knob. Be warned - many "budget" HU's can be significantly lower than 75%. Just as many quality HU's can be higher.

II. AMP - please consult the Gain Setting Tutorial here on this forum.

Example: If your HU has a preout voltage of 2V and the dial on your amp gain is only 1/5 of max when properly set, you certainly don't want to crank up the gain to 3/4 of max unless you plan on donating your sub and possibly your amp to the local landfill. If it's not loud enough for you when properly set, then you need to re-evaluate the way things are installed and/or the equipment you are running, not crank the gain.

Oh, and I second the TC-1000.

 

[PatFitz9 10+ year member]

i was telling you what was wrong... it's not my fault you don't know what you're doing. read up, and learn how to set them properly before you go blowing your new sub

 

[John2005 10+ year member]

DejaWiz thanks a lot for the input and explanation of what Pat said. I have a 5v Preout on my Eclipse AVN5435 HU. On my stock head unit in my car the place that installed my Subs and amp had it set at 1/2 so I figured that my Eclipse HU should be safe at 3/4, but according to your explanation and the link you gave me I need to go check it and see what I should have it set at.

 

[WLDock 10+ year member]

ALPINE TYPE-R SWR-1042D - 500w RMS/1500w peak

~$121 shipped - http://www.ebay.com

product link - http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=SWR-1042D&lang=en&tab=D

PRECISION POWER DCX 104 - 1000w continuous

~$139 shipped - http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?Source=googlebase&ProductID=14074

product link- http://www.precisionpower.com/subwoofers/DCXseries.asp

BLAUPUNKT Wx1000 - 1000W RMS/ 2000W max

~$165 shipped - http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140001827684

product link - http://www.blaupunkt.com/us/7606200263_main.asp

DAYTON AUDIO REFERENCE SERIES - 600w RMS/1000W max

~$119.80+ s&h

This is a 4 Ohm sub so I am not sure what you amp will do at that load?

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-462

DIAMOND AUDIO D6 D4 - 500w RMS/ 1000w Max

~$149.98 shipped - http://www.ebay.com

product link - http://www.diamondaudio.com/content/view/128/142/