Bench Alternator

[Johnny Drama 5,000+ posts]

That doesn't work //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif
Your alternator DOES NOT put out it's rated amperage all the time, or when at 2k rmp, and DEFINITELY not 24/7

The alternator only provides amperage when it needs to, when it is under load. If it doesn't need to charge, it won't.

That's why the test works at those 2retailers, it puts a LARGE load on your system... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

nG

I know it wont be exact...It will be pretty close. Every time I have clamped my alt even with no acc's on, it still reads very close to 250a...Its not exact science, but you will get the idea if its only producing a quarter of what its suppose to...

 

[Kenny Pollock 10+ year member]

AutoZone tested it and it failed the test... because it is 200A and the machine bases it's results of of stock, meaning if it produces 200A and the stock is 80A, it will fail because it's OVER 80A.

 

[QtrHorse 10+ year member]

AutoZone tested it and it failed the test... because it is 200A and the machine bases it's results of of stock, meaning if it produces 200A and the stock is 80A, it will fail because it's OVER 80A.

Is that what they told you? I must have had a genius check mine then because he actually did it right. I really need to go work for AutoZone. I should be running the entire company in about 5 years because everyone that works there is an idiot.

 

[knukonceptz 10+ year member]

I know it wont be exact...It will be pretty close. Every time I have clamped my alt even with no acc's on, it still reads very close to 250a...Its not exact science, but you will get the idea if its only producing a quarter of what its suppose to...

You must have some dead *** batteries then, with the car on and nothing else at 2k rpm (or any RPM) you would get ONLY what the car needs to operate (probablu less then 30A if nothing is on) The loads used on a Test bench at a good shop are gradual, they can vary the load like you can in real life in your car. The cheapy testers, like Dom states in his post, are instant full load and that can cause problems with your regulator.

Fact - on your car, the alternator will only output the load it is required to put forth.

If it put out a constant 200A you would cook your batteries. I am sure you could have this arranged ,some how eleiminate the regulator (funny - the NAME implies what it does, regulates)

A clamp meter is all you need, as suggested, put it on the positive wire from the alt to battery and you can see in real time what you have to work with. You can also put it on your amp power wire. I think some might be dissapointed in the number of amps they are really drawing.......

 

[Kenny Pollock 10+ year member]

On a side note, thanks for the shipment knu //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Got it today, I love your wire!!

 

[sl600 10+ year member]

i got my alt from ohiogen and this is what they send you with your alt,,

 

[jeepintn 10+ year member]

i got my alt from ohiogen and this is what they send you with your alt,,

am i reading that chart right? if so, thats an awfully low reading for 1k rpm

 

[Tirefryr 10+ year member]

He He He.

 

[sl600 10+ year member]

am i reading that chart right? if so, thats an awfully low reading for 1k rpm

thats what i was saying too, for the are suppose to be one of the top h/o alt company,however, they did not mention if its an alts rpm or eng rpm ? and i did send them an e-mail asking for more info but still no replay, i will try again.

 

[knukonceptz 10+ year member]

That is most likely Alternator RPM, which is usually a 3:1 ratio (so 3000 RPM at the ALT is 1000 RPM on the car)

We supply a similar chart, but converted to engine RPM

 

[casper97ta 10+ year member]

could you do the same test with a clamp but turn your system on full and turn the a/c on, and then check to see if you're getting good amps? can you use a DMM instead of a clamp?

 

[knukonceptz 10+ year member]

Higher end DMM's can read amps, but it need the Clamp attachment. So either way you need some sort of clamp meter. Those loads would show real world output, but might not allow for maximum load. It would be a good indication of what your alternator does provide on a daily basis.

Using test tones, A/C, rear defrost and headlights, would certainly post some high draw numbers. Be sure to watch voltage too

 

[CJL 10+ year member]

fftopic:Quick question: lets say your alt does 150a @ idle and you amps onlt draws 80a does the mean that you voltage will stay @ 14.4 b-cuz the alt still has 70a left //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eyebrow.gif.fe2c18d8720fe8c7eaed347b21ea05a5.gif

 

[Kenny Pollock 10+ year member]

fftopic:Quick question: lets say your alt does 150a @ idle and you amps onlt draws 80a does the mean that you voltage will stay @ 14.4 b-cuz the alt still has 70a left //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/eyebrow.gif.fe2c18d8720fe8c7eaed347b21ea05a5.gif

I don't think so, because I'll have everything in my car off and I will still have the same idle voltage unless I am playing my system at full tilt; then I see some voltage drops.

 

[CJL 10+ year member]

I don't think so, because I'll have everything in my car off and I will still have the same idle voltage unless I am playing my system at full tilt; then I see some voltage drops.

how do you like your EA alt? whats the lowest volts you see att full tilt?