Beginner's guide to box building

PV Audio
5,000+ posts

The Vision of Sound
Even after three years, I still see loads of posts asking what to get to build one's first box. So, just to see if I can't help some people out and to cut down on the threads made in this subforum, I'll make another one of my writeups on how to get started with box building, materials, tips 'n tricks, etc. So, without further ado, here we go.

The main thing to understand about box building is that it is indeed both an art, but also very simple. That might not make much sense, so let me elaborate. A perfectly constructed speaker enclosure will make you sit back and say wow, I can't believe I just made that. More importantly, the sound will be astonishing. The best part of all is that it is not difficult to achieve good results. Much like everything else in life, it just takes practice. If you don't make some form of mistake on your first go, then you either aren't trying hard enough or were born knowing all such as Ramos ( //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif ). Anyway, onto the important part: building materials.

The things that you WILL need are as follows:

Wood (more on that later)

Glue (more on that later as well)

Screws, nails, or other fasteners (optional, but highly recommended regardless)

Clamps (look to own various sizes, starting with 24" and going up to 50" if you can)

Drill, nailgun, or equivalent (for drills, torque is ESSENTIAL. for nailguns, just don't be cheap)

Saw and/or router (saw is necessary, router is technically optional but once you use one for your circles, you'll wonder how you cut without it)

1. The wood that you use is extremely important. Do not go by what the wood costs, go by what it does. Your best bet is 3/4" MDF. While the .5" is cheaper, unless you want to see the box itself moving more than the sub, I don't recommend it. If they have it, you can generally stay away from 1" mdf as well since if you're reading this thread for tips, you usually aren't going to be building a serious enclosure just yet. Particleboard is usually something to stay away for because it's weak, not very dense and is just plain cheap and awful to cut and work with. Plywood is good, however, I do not mean the plywood that you made your skateboard ramp out of. I'm talking about multiple ply shelving type oak or birch plywood. Usually costs around 40+ dollars.

2. Glue is an essential part of any enclosure, and anyone who tells you otherwise should either be reading this thread or is mass producing boxes where their customers don't give a shit about how long their enclosure lasts. There is always controversy surrounding the various types of glues, so all that I am going to recommend is wood glue. It's all I use, and it is the best for, wouldn't you know it, WOOD! Wood glue creates a chemical bond between the two pieces of wood which will actually be stronger than the wood itself. This means that the wood of the box will snap before the properly set glue joint will. Gorilla glue, polyurethane glues and the like create strong physical, but nothing as strong as wood glue will. However, wood glue only bonds wood strongly. Otherwise, it's about as useful as elmer's school glue for other things.

3. I won't discuss nailguns here because if you're using one, then you already know what you're doing. However, screws are important. They are indeed unnecessary because in a properly glued box, the screws add zero structural support. The reason you use screws is the same reason you use clamps. To have a proper glue bond, you MUST clamp the joint tightly together. Otherwise, the wood is just stuck together instead of bound. The point of a screw is to hold that tightly clamped joint in place while it dries so that you can continue on with the rest of the box. I have built speakers with no screws only because it's a pain to have to fill in the holes for paint. Otherwise, I recommend drywall or decking screws only for box buidling. Wood screws do work, but they're so much more expensive for a little box that they're essentially worthless to us box builders.

4. Clamps are pretty self explanatory. As I mentioned above, they are imperative to have a proper glue bond, and you should have various sizes for different box sizes. 'Nuff said.

5. What you happen to use to drill and screw the box together is less vital than the rest of what's been mentioned. Make sure it has good torque to firmly set the screws, and enough power to countersink the screws by itself (having the screwheads lay flush with the work surface). Otherwise, you'll need a countersinking bit which can be picked up at any hardware store.

6. Get a good saw the FIRST time. Take it from me with this little story. I purchased an ebay jigsaw around 3 years ago and started making boxes. I thought I was the shit. Little did I know, my saw literally was a piece of shit. I had just changed the blade and firmly tightened it and as soon as I started cutting, the moving assembly came apart and the blade managed to put a nice cut into my foot. Don't cheap out, invest in a good brand (I personally own a hitachi circular and table saw, a bosch jigsaw and a bosch router and couldn't be happier), and don't be like me and spend loads of money multiple times by slowly increasing your purchasing power. Save your money and buy the good stuff. Routers are great for circles, but if you can't afford one just yet, then a jigsaw will do.

Okay, you've got your stuff, and are ready to build. Some tips:

1.Glue evenly, and thoroughly. When you clamp down your joint, if glue doesn't come out on both sides, then you didn't use enough. Unclamp, and add more.

2. Measure your cuts MULTIPLE times before cutting. There's nothing like measuring out a 4x8 of MDF only to have it be completely off by 1/8". Worst feeling ever, and I know because I've done it. Measure folks, measure!

3. Please, PLEASE use a mask when cutting and sanding. You do not want MDF dust to get into your lungs just like you wouldn't walk into a paint booth and start spraying without a mask either. Don't be stupid like me and get yourself a chronic cough, wear a mask.

4.Take your time. There's no rush to get the box done, and when you do rush, you'll just wind up spending more time because you screwed something up.

5. It sounds stupid, but have fun. Building a box to "get it done" or make money is no way to enjoy the hobby. If you aren't enjoying yourself in the least, even when you screw something up, then you should either reevaluate why you're building or find a new hobby.

Okay y'all, that's it for now. Additions and/or revisions are always welcome.

-Dave

 
good shit

i like this espically

1.Glue evenly, and thoroughly. When you clamp down your joint, it glue doesn't come out on both sides, then you didn't use enough. Unclamp, and add more.

i always run my finger down when i lay a bead just to make sure it coovers the entire surface of the bond.

 
if you are reffering that to me. then no. english is my third language.
thank you.
i like this guy already lol...

to answer your question: no, the sound will not be effected at all... the main reasons to use birch ply is because its lighter than MDF, as well as being easier to cut and less harmful to your cutting tools. The other reason is because it's MUCH sexier looking //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

 
thanks.

didn't know that birch ply is lighter than mdf. and in fact the birch ply does have a sexier look than the mdf. my car is already heavy as hell with a underpowered engine and my mdf box even though still not in the car yet but it's a workout just to move it in my living room to test fit the flase floor i'm doing.

this thread is great because it list all the steps clearly focus towards beginners to easy understand it.

 
that list of the things you will need is just plain stupid, i knew those requirements when i was in 1st grade.
dont come in and bash his post, its an educational post, and believe it or not, there are people that find that information useful.

want me to recap your "little metal thing in the fuse holder cuase i didnt wanna put a fuse in then it smelt like burning plastic but i left it then it broke" thread? thats kinda "just plain stupid" and i bet i would have "known that in 1st grade"

 
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