BATTERY! Optima or Diehard?

[DeboLotti 10+ year member]

For my 2 12" L7 ported, im gonna have them on a zx1000.1 (probably more likely) or a zx1500.1. I have an 1800 watt amp wirin kit (pretty sure its 4awg), and Im gonna do the big 3 with 0 awg. In my 2007 pontiac g6 v6 sedan, with stock alt (120 amps is what it said online about it, so i wont change it), do i need to change my OEM battery with a yellowtop or diehard battery? OR can i keep my stock and just put another battery by the amp?if so which battery do you reccomend? Keep in mind im getting 2 headrest screens and a touchscreen pioneer double din, and a neon sign in my trunk with 2 electronic trunk pop actuators, but i never play music without the engine on and running. Any response would be appreciated cuz i been stressin out lookin all over this sight for some answers and really i just see people makin ******** comments to eachother. Thanks!

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[CRSO 10+ year member]

Aren't optimas made by diehard/oddysey?

Yes they are

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

I threeve the DieHard Platinum battery recommendations... Odyssey builds them to military specs.

a more useful metric for evaluating batteries is Reserve Capacity (RC)

 

[BFeezy 10+ year member]

if anyone needs batts and wants to pay shipping the powersports dealer my dad works for is a deka dealer and can get 9a31s for 180 plus whatever the actual shipping to you would be

 

[snoopdan 5,000+ posts]

I threeve the DieHard Platinum battery recommendations... Odyssey builds them to military specs.
a more useful metric for evaluating batteries is Reserve Capacity (RC)

Depends on what you're trying to do. If you were just worried about doing burps for compeitions then short circuit current would be more of a metric.

if anyone needs batts and wants to pay shipping the powersports dealer my dad works for is a deka dealer and can get 9a31s for 180 plus whatever the actual shipping to you would be

and that's a good deal??!?!?

 

[wickedwitt 10+ year member]

oreillys batts have a 2yr no questions free exchange if ure batt fails

This, plus Super Start batteries are just re-badged Dekas which means you saved lots of money getting great batteries.

 

[JoshC 10+ year member]

This, plus Super Start batteries are just re-badged Dekas which means you saved lots of money getting great batteries.

I knew they were repackaged something good, couldnt remember what. But there actually 3yr warrentys and 100bucks compared to 250 on the diehard. But the diehard is a ****** batt

I have the HD super start, 880 cold cranking and 150AC... Couldnt find a AH rating

 

[wickedwitt 10+ year member]

I knew they were repackaged something good, couldnt remember what. But there actually 3yr warrentys and 100bucks compared to 250 on the diehard. But the diehard is a ****** batt
I have the HD super start, 880 cold cranking and 150AC... Couldnt find a AH rating

I've had both, and I would but my Dekas against a DieHard any day. For the price of Super Start badging, I wouldn't do anything different if I didn't get dealer cost on all my Dekas.

On your HD, it depends on what group it is. For typical up front batts, most of them seem to be 85 AH or 95 AH, small case and 'average' case.

 

[DeboLotti 10+ year member]

So super start or diehard? Keep in mind Im fresh outta HS I don't have tons of money

 

[DeboLotti 10+ year member]

Lol somebody just tell me what battery to get! Its not a competition system its a daily driver I just need to know! Its gonna be under 2000 watts easily! Whays under the hood of my pontiac right now is a duralast gold! Should I keep that and add another or replace it!!! Someone plz answer all questions.

 

[DeboLotti 10+ year member]

Oh and my duralast gold has side posts its model number 75 DLG

 

[snoopdan 5,000+ posts]

adding another battery to your setup is always a wise decision. The Deka I have would work just fine!

 

[DeboLotti 10+ year member]

Wait, if my stock alt is 125 amps can I just keep this 75ah duralast? It has 700CCA and 875 at 32degrees

 

[Corey0195 10+ year member]

Just get one of the ones listed above by the like...6 people that all have their own personal preference.. Get the one that you can get for the best price because any of them would work... You will want another Bat on a stock alternator

Even if you get a zx1000 when bass hits your lights in the car would dim pretty baddly without another bat

 

[DeboLotti 10+ year member]

Ok I will go to sears and get a superstart. Ill try to find a 75ah or higher. And I can look up how to wire my stock duralast gold to the superstart. I can keep my alt cuz its 125 amps. Thanks guys. And if I have voltage drops I'm comin for your a s s e s lol I just want my system to bang

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

batteries won't stop your voltage from dropping. adding batteries will increase voltage drop (down to the battery float voltage) since another battery is another load for the alt to charge. voltage drop itself is inherent in EVERY wire that has current. can't avoid it.

you only get 14.4V out of an alternator when it can supply enough current to all of the loads in the car (system, battery charging, car stuff, etc.). once you ask for more than the alternator is providing at that instant, voltage drops. the alt output depends on the engine speed and ability to continue to turn the alt pulley when on a load. the alt is a generator, as you load it up it becomes harder to turn. in general, you get about half the alt output at idle compared to 2500 RPM.

so at idle, with your system cranked and headlights on, you'll get dimming regardless of how many batteries you have. batteries can't help you maintain 14.4V. they can help you maintain 12.5-13V. The drop from 14V to 13V is visible in the headlights.

add a volt meter in the dash somewhere (the cig lighter kind is easy). keep an eye on voltage. note that adding batteries means you have even more to charge. and the weakest battery will drain the new stronger battery, pulling it down.

one good starting battery is enough for most systems. adding batteries adds complexity and cost in wiring and fusing, complexity in mounting/safety, and they take up space.

you should have 1/0 wire between the batteries and fuses on each end of the power wire. upgrading the Big 3 is also recommended.

if it were me, i would get the best up front battery you can afford, and do the big 3. then see where you are at. if you only listen when the car is running, and you have a modest system, that should be plenty.

people that add multiple batteries for "daily drivers" may just have inadequate charging systems and rely on the batteries to power the system and supply instantaneous current. additional batteries are certainly good for peak bass demands (at a lower voltage than the alt). so you get voltage drop which reduces power output, but maybe not as much if you didn't have the extra batteries.

that should confuse you more. cheers.