battery not chargine .... Help!!

  • 5
    Participant count
  • Participant list
hey guys it seems like my battery is not charging.

Yesterday when I got off work I rolled up my windows and noticed I was getting horrible dimming, then later my window just stopped rolling up. I didn't think to much of it, but then I turned my stereo up and it turned off at higher volumes (I've had it installed for a year and a half and its never done that once) I was starting to get worried by then. but I didn't do anything.

again this morning I turned on the car and it turned on fine. (still couldn't roll up window and stereo still turning off) right as soon as I got on the road my whole dashboard started getting dimmer and dimmer, also my headlights. my turning signals no longer even lit up. I instantly headed back home and car was basically idling there. it wouldnt accelerate.

once u got home I turned the car off and it no longer turned on, but did crank. I left a battery charger connected to it while I went out to do errands. when i came back I turned it on but it was weak so weak. it would almost turn off again.

I'm assuming my alternator is not charging the battery.

if it helps I've got a singer 230 amp alternator and an XS power D2400

Let me know if anyone has any idea of what I can do.

 
If they know how.. There machines around here can't read current that high so it will just fail with a 0.

Just get a DMM and an ammeter is all you need.

Something simple that is required for many vehicles that no one ever does is upgrade the Exciter fuse under the hood when adding a HO alternator.

My car's stock fuse for this was 7.5A i upgraded to 15A and never had a problem popping it anymore.

If this fuse pops, your alt is not working because nothing is telling it to come on.

 
My first experience with this.. it happened about 2-3 months after i installed it on my last car. It was a Mechman.

Called em up, told em the alt wasnt workin.. they told me to check the exciter fuse. I did, it was blown..

They said a 10-15A fuse is required on all HO alternators but the 10A might eventually pop too.. It's a burst of current that is the problem. It's not continuously high.

So, i just opted for the 15A and never had a problem since then..

 
If they know how.. There machines around here can't read current that high so it will just fail with a 0.
Just get a DMM and an ammeter is all you need.

Something simple that is required for many vehicles that no one ever does is upgrade the Exciter fuse under the hood when adding a HO alternator.

My car's stock fuse for this was 7.5A i upgraded to 15A and never had a problem popping it anymore.

If this fuse pops, your alt is not working because nothing is telling it to come on.
I'll have to look into that fuse.. do all cars have it?

 
I would assume so. I can't remember 100% what it's called.. ALT ACC? i cant remember..

what i do know to look for is ALT under hood fuse box and look for the SMALLEST fuse for anything labeled ALT...........

 
My first experience with this.. it happened about 2-3 months after i installed it on my last car. It was a Mechman.
Called em up, told em the alt wasnt workin.. they told me to check the exciter fuse. I did, it was blown..

They said a 10-15A fuse is required on all HO alternators but the 10A might eventually pop too.. It's a burst of current that is the problem. It's not continuously high.

So, i just opted for the 15A and never had a problem since then..
what problems were you having before you changed out the fuse?

 
What problems? lol.. oh..

Drove 3hrs straight on no alternator. Just batteries.. Got to a show resting at 11.7v freakin out..

then hot charged the batts once i fixed it.

I must had damaged most of the diodes in the rectifier when i did that because a week after that happened, as soon as i turned up the stereo, the alt went up in smoke.

 
What problems? lol.. oh..
Drove 3hrs straight on no alternator. Just batteries.. Got to a show resting at 11.7v freakin out..

then hot charged the batts once i fixed it.

I must had damaged most of the diodes in the rectifier when i did that because a week after that happened, as soon as i turned up the stereo, the alt went up in smoke.
dang ! lol that doesn't sound fun at all.

that sounds very similar to what's happening to me.

thanks for letting me know. I didn't expect to check the fuses. I will check them as soon as im back home.

 
If they know how.. There machines around here can't read current that high so it will just fail with a 0.
Just get a DMM and an ammeter is all you need.

Something simple that is required for many vehicles that no one ever does is upgrade the Exciter fuse under the hood when adding a HO alternator.

My car's stock fuse for this was 7.5A i upgraded to 15A and never had a problem popping it anymore.

If this fuse pops, your alt is not working because nothing is telling it to come on.
When you say ammeter, are you referring to a shunt resistor?

 
No.. Ammeter.. Many kids today call them "clamp meters" for slang but the actual name for them is Ammeter.

There are many illiterate sayings going on in car audio..

Sonotube.. It's form tube. Sonotube is a brand name

Skil saw.. It's circular saw. Skilsaw is a brand name

Voltmeter.. Multimeter. Voltmeter can mean many things.

I see lugs and terminals get tossed around a lot.. but that's better than the stuff above.

One of my all time dreadful favorites is thinking "clamping" gets you power.. lol.. It may get you VA(Volt Amps), but not Power(Watts).

It's too many people jump into this hobby without knowledge and can cause serious problems to their installation when they can't explain what they want or need or what is happening because they lack the terminology.

It would be a dream to have a car audio class in high school.. hmm.. You know how big the hobby would have to be to require that?

 
No.. Ammeter.. Many kids today call them "clamp meters" for slang but the actual name for them is Ammeter.
There are many illiterate sayings going on in car audio..

Sonotube.. It's form tube. Sonotube is a brand name

Skil saw.. It's circular saw. Skilsaw is a brand name

Voltmeter.. Multimeter. Voltmeter can mean many things.

I see lugs and terminals get tossed around a lot.. but that's better than the stuff above.

One of my all time dreadful favorites is thinking "clamping" gets you power.. lol.. It may get you VA(Volt Amps), but not Power(Watts).

It's too many people jump into this hobby without knowledge and can cause serious problems to their installation when they can't explain what they want or need or what is happening because they lack the terminology.

It would be a dream to have a car audio class in high school.. hmm.. You know how big the hobby would have to be to require that?
Lol, thank you for the information.

 
Activity
No one is currently typing a reply...
Old Thread: Please note, there have been no replies in this thread for over 3 years!
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant.
Perhaps it would be better to start a new thread instead.

Similar threads

About this thread

Thread starter
dragon123443
Joined
Location
Riverdale CA
Start date
Participants
Who Replied
Replies
19
Views
1,131
Last reply date
Last reply from
dragon123443
IMG_7545.png

Chris Gerrish

    Apr 25, 2024
  • 0
  • 0
IMG_7544.png

Chris Gerrish

    Apr 25, 2024
  • 0
  • 0

Latest topics

Top