Battery draining

[Wineshop]

Hey, folks! Question - if I'm getting zero volts from all remote turn on wires to ground when the key is off (and the amp light goes off) is it still possible for that amp to drain my battery? And when the key is on, I do get 12V and the amp light does come on as it should. I went to leave work recently and found a dead battery. It's a 2020 Titan with 4000 miles on it. I did have the dealer check and the battery is good. I don't know what else it could be, but if the remote wire isn't powering the amp on I don't know how it could be the culprit. Anything else I can check? FWI - it has worked fine for 6 months. Only change was I recently upgraded from an AudioControl LC7i to an AudioControl DM-810 DSP. And it's wired up the same and seem to be working correctly (also zero volts from remote wire to ground). No other changes. Gotta be something I'm missing. I've played with car audio for years, but am far from an expert. Thank you.

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[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

Thank you.

As a test, disconnect amp's power wire while at work to see if it still drains. I had a Grand Am that would use the OEM amp for "notifications". It would turn on the sub amp randomly and drain my battery. Only when I pulled the OEM radio is when it stopped.

 

[Wineshop]

As a test, disconnect amp's power wire while at work to see if it still drains. I had a Grand Am that would use the OEM amp for "notifications". It would turn on the sub amp randomly and drain my battery. Only when I pulled the OEM radio is when it stopped.

Thanks for the reply. I actually have it disconnected now (for the last week) and the battery has been fine. More reason to think it has to be the DSP/ amp.

I have all of next week off - so I’m waiting until then to do major troubleshooting. That way if it dies again it’ll die in my driveway and not the giant chemical plant I work in! So I’m just going to leave it disconnected until then. But as of now - I’m not exactly sure what to do next.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Use the current function on your DMM to see if somehow the amp is still drawing current when powered down. If it is the amp is defective OR as the other guy suggested something in the car's "smart" section is powering it up and down at random while the key is off.

 

[Wineshop]

Use the current function on your DMM to see if somehow the amp is still drawing current when powered down. If it is the amp is defective OR as the other guy suggested something in the car's "smart" section is powering it up and down at random while the key is off.

Ok - that's a great idea. Have not done that yet. Couple of questions - should the current be exactly zero, or is a tiny amount acceptable? Also - should it matter where the measurement is taken? (at the battery, or right at the amp?) If that truck doing some kind of voodoo by bringing that thing on and off that's gonna be a doozie to figure out. I wish my DMM had a "memory" so I could clamp it on and leave it overnight. Do they make those? Thanks for your help.

 

[1aespinoza 10+ year member]

But as of now - I’m not exactly sure what to do next.

First easy test is to reconnect power supply but not remote wire. Leave it overnight. If no drain, then the DSP is sus. If drained, then amp is it. Good luck.

 

[metalheadjoe 10+ year member]

Ok - that's a great idea. Have not done that yet. Couple of questions - should the current be exactly zero, or is a tiny amount acceptable? Also - should it matter where the measurement is taken? (at the battery, or right at the amp?) If that truck doing some kind of voodoo by bringing that thing on and off that's gonna be a doozie to figure out. I wish my DMM had a "memory" so I could clamp it on and leave it overnight. Do they make those? Thanks for your help.

Yes it matters. The battery terminal will show you total drain and the amp will only show you what the amp uses.

I bet you could find software that graphs that long. The closest i know of personally is meters with a min/max feature.

 

[Wineshop]

I bet you could find software that graphs that long. The closest i know of personally is meters with a min/max feature.

Hmmm. I'll have to do some research. That would be handy.

First easy test is to reconnect power supply but not remote wire. Leave it overnight. If no drain, then the DSP is sus. If drained, then amp is it. Good luck.

Makes perfect sense. Much thanks!

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Ok - that's a great idea. Have not done that yet. Couple of questions - should the current be exactly zero, or is a tiny amount acceptable? Also - should it matter where the measurement is taken? (at the battery, or right at the amp?) If that truck doing some kind of voodoo by bringing that thing on and off that's gonna be a doozie to figure out. I wish my DMM had a "memory" so I could clamp it on and leave it overnight. Do they make those? Thanks for your help.

Most have a "peak hold" function but I'd guess any good one like that will also power down if nothing changes for a few minutes to conserve battery (all my good ones have done so).

I'd like to think anything drawing enough to drain your battery while you work would jump out at you, and I'm not sure if there is some "normal" draw to expect from the vehicle's entire electrical system. Another option might be to wire an extremely small fuse in line to your amp and see if that opens overnight if there's a reason to suspect a device is turning on at random when you're not looking. Not sure how that helps you figure out how to make it stop doing something that you can't observe it doing, but there is that.

Furthermore if you see a current all the time, start pulling fuses until it goes away (obviously you'll need to account for door open chime and dome lights or whatever) and that may at least narrow it down if it's some part of the factory system.

Lastly, if you have deep cycled (completely drained) your stock battery a few times you have very likely seriously damaged it. Most standard lead acid batteries cannot survive many deep discharges before they lose most of their reserve capacity.

 

[AnthonyO 10+ year member]

Are you using the GTO Signal Sensing on the DSP? And then remote out on the DSP?

 

[Wineshop]

Are you using the GTO Signal Sensing on the DSP? And then remote out on the DSP?

Hey - sorry, just finally jumped back on and saw this. Yes, right now that is what I'm doing. But I just ordered a fuse link and I'm going to go straight from the fuse box. I got to thinking - if my radio is sending any kind of signal to the DSP - that could be turning on the amps. And my truck does send a signal even when you touch the outside door handles, so I guess it's possible. I'll at least eliminate that possibility.

 

[Wineshop]

Lastly, if you have deep cycled (completely drained) your stock battery a few times you have very likely seriously damaged it. Most standard lead acid batteries cannot survive many deep discharges before they lose most of their reserve capacity.

So far only the once. Hopefully now I can monitor it enough to keep it from happening again. But good reminder - I hadn't even considered that. I appreciate it.

 

[Kickstand Premium Member]

Hey - sorry, just finally jumped back on and saw this. Yes, right now that is what I'm doing. But I just ordered a fuse link and I'm going to go straight from the fuse box. I got to thinking - if my radio is sending any kind of signal to the DSP - that could be turning on the amps. And my truck does send a signal even when you touch the outside door handles, so I guess it's possible. I'll at least eliminate that possibility.

Make sure you pick a fuse that is not connected to RAP
Cigarette lighters and things of this nature power up when you for example pull the door handle.
I was always a fan of the sunroof or the wipers

 

[Wineshop]

So the more I thought about this the more I'm really thinking the GTO feature of the DSP had to have played a part in this. The Titan has proximity doors (just touch and as long as FOB is on you it unlocks) and even if I don't have the FOB and I touch the handle the radio sends signal and engages to GTO - cause I can see the light come on for 30 seconds or so. (I guess so that when you get in your radio and speakers will be ready for you?? I'm not exactly sure of the benefit of that.) So I disabled the GTO and ran a turn on wire from the fusebox (I used the front seat heater). Came on like it should, shut off like it should. I checked for any amps on the 12V cable - nothing. Checked voltage from EACH turn on wire to ground - nothing. I'm really hoping this was it. But I'm off for 7 days so if it's going to bite me again this would be the best time. Let's say something is still draining my battery ... will checking voltage across the terminals show evidence of that? So I can check it as the day goes along? Thanks everyone for all your advice. It certainly got my little brain clicking, for sure.

 

[Wineshop]

So - I think I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow. I realized a few days ago my meter doesn't do DC Amps so I had to wait until I got one today, finally. When I remove the negative cable from the battery I get 3 amps or so from the neg terminal and the cable with the truck off. I completely removed my amps/ DSP from the battery and the fuse box .. still 3 amps. I started removing fuses and when I removed the interior light it dropped to .400 amps (still too much, but an obvious jump). I put that fuse back in and closed the doors to make sure none of the lights were on and it dropped to about 2.5 amps. Still too high. So - this is what my warranty is for. Since I'm reasonably sure it's not the amps/ DSP .. I'll let them figure it out. Thank for all y'all's help. If there's something I'm missing ... please let me know!