Batteries - Which brand How many? Need Help!

Mike Waters
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About to run an Ampere 3800.1 on my 4 Jerichos 12's underrated from what I was told at 700 rms If it helps or matters I have a 320 amp Singer alt and I was wondering how many batteries will I need and what are the best suggestions on brands. If XS Power please let me know which model batteries and how many etc.

 
Single d3100.

Need something in the back to help with high current draws.

With as many runs as one would need to the rear to compensate for voltage drop with no battery in the rear, he would spend more in wire than on a single battery.

 
I will be using 2 runs 0ga for power and 2 runs 0ga for ground to my 3800.1 and a single 0ga run for power and single run for ground to my 4 channel.

Would a d3100 up front and in back be better/sufficient or would it be better to get 3 of the d3400's for the same price as 2 d3100's?

 
I ran 3 3400s on 6000 rms with a 300 amp alternator. I abused it and NEVER got the voltage down enough to need rear batteries. Unless I was hammering it at idle but like I said that was 6000 watts. Set it clean and try it before you waste money. All mind did was hurt MPG.

 
I would advise a single battery in the rear. No need to modify the front battery.

You do not want resistance so to combat it, power source needs to be as close to the amplifier as possible.

 
Really? You are going to debate me over this...

Ok then.

You are wrong.

When an alternator maxes out, voltage will be around 13.6v, not 12v.

There is a thing called surface charge.

Most agms float there.

this surface charge can bleed back to 13.1v relatively quick to where the battery starts to lose its SoC.

Now, a single battery is highly advised for rear even for a 1k system because as i have explained before already, low voltage installs, 12v vehicles, have to fight resistance.

Thats why large cables are always suggested.

its not to handle the current, that's easy.

its to fight voltage drop.

Electricity flows in the path of least resistance.

a battery, power source acts as a buffer for power surges of current demand.

What do you think happens to an alternators regulator when you remove the charge cable off the battery?

The regulators RELY on a power source to add a load (resistance) to itself so the regulator can properly operate at its set point.

The source of power will come from the unit of highest voltage but that voltage will be lower if it has to travel the length of the car to get there without any help.

Having a battery in the back reduces potential voltage drop under heavy demand.

We are talking 1 battery in the rear....

I have done all kinds of crazy installs.

21kw on 2 batts

12kw on 12 batts

Here soon, im doing 120,000w on A123 LiFePo4 cells

I know whats necessary as i have to provide this information to our customers for the products we sell.

We help build the new 30,000w 12v amp coming soon.

i do not recommend people waste money on buying too many batteries but a rear battery or bank is and should be used to combat resistance resulting in unwanted voltage drop thats easily preventable.

 
I heard more batteries equals less work for your alternater, so the more batteries you run, the longer your alternater should last. Of course, when you compare the price of batteries, to the price of alternaters, I don't think it will save you any money running a ton of batteries if you don't need them.

 
I heard more batteries equals less work for your alternater, so the more batteries you run, the longer your alternater should last. Of course, when you compare the price of batteries, to the price of alternaters, I don't think it will save you any money running a ton of batteries if you don't need them.
Actually it makes it work harder to keep the LOAD topped off.

 
Really? You are going to debate me over this...
Ok then.

You are wrong.
So all the pissing aside...

Your claim is we need 2nd batts and ~$100 of wiring in our 1000+w set ups to access float charge where virtually no current is available?

Let me jump right on that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

 
So all the pissing aside...Your claim is we need 2nd batts and ~$100 of wiring in our 1000+w set ups to access float charge where virtually no current is available?

Let me jump right on that //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif
In his defence.. He is a salesman

 
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Mike Waters

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