Menu
Forum
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Gallery
New media
New comments
Search media
Members
Registered members
Current visitors
Classifieds Member Feedback
SHOP
Shop Head Units
Shop Amplifiers
Shop Speakers
Shop Subwoofers
Shop eBay Car Audio
Log in / Register
Forum
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Log in / Join
What’s new
Search
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
Search titles and first posts only
Search titles only
General Car Audio
Subwoofers
Speakers
Amplifiers
Head Units
Car Audio Build Logs
Wiring, Electrical and Installation
Enclosure Design & Construction
Car Audio Classifieds
Home Audio
Off-topic Discussion
The Lounge
What's new
Search forums
Menu
Reply to thread
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Batteries - Which brand How many? Need Help!
JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding.
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an
alternative browser
.
Message
<blockquote data-quote="shizzzon" data-source="post: 8329610" data-attributes="member: 590338"><p>Really? You are going to debate me over this...</p><p></p><p>Ok then.</p><p></p><p>You are wrong.</p><p></p><p>When an alternator maxes out, voltage will be around 13.6v, not 12v.</p><p></p><p>There is a thing called surface charge.</p><p></p><p>Most agms float there.</p><p></p><p>this surface charge can bleed back to 13.1v relatively quick to where the battery starts to lose its SoC.</p><p></p><p>Now, a single battery is highly advised for rear even for a 1k system because as i have explained before already, low voltage installs, 12v vehicles, have to fight resistance.</p><p></p><p>Thats why large cables are always suggested.</p><p></p><p>its not to handle the current, that's easy.</p><p></p><p>its to fight voltage drop.</p><p></p><p>Electricity flows in the path of least resistance.</p><p></p><p>a battery, power source acts as a buffer for power surges of current demand.</p><p></p><p>What do you think happens to an alternators regulator when you remove the charge cable off the battery?</p><p></p><p>The regulators RELY on a power source to add a load (resistance) to itself so the regulator can properly operate at its set point.</p><p></p><p>The source of power will come from the unit of highest voltage but that voltage will be lower if it has to travel the length of the car to get there without any help.</p><p></p><p>Having a battery in the back reduces potential voltage drop under heavy demand.</p><p></p><p>We are talking 1 battery in the rear....</p><p></p><p>I have done all kinds of crazy installs.</p><p></p><p>21kw on 2 batts</p><p></p><p>12kw on 12 batts</p><p></p><p>Here soon, im doing 120,000w on A123 LiFePo4 cells</p><p></p><p>I know whats necessary as i have to provide this information to our customers for the products we sell.</p><p></p><p>We help build the new 30,000w 12v amp coming soon.</p><p></p><p>i do not recommend people waste money on buying too many batteries but a rear battery or bank is and should be used to combat resistance resulting in unwanted voltage drop thats easily preventable.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="shizzzon, post: 8329610, member: 590338"] Really? You are going to debate me over this... Ok then. You are wrong. When an alternator maxes out, voltage will be around 13.6v, not 12v. There is a thing called surface charge. Most agms float there. this surface charge can bleed back to 13.1v relatively quick to where the battery starts to lose its SoC. Now, a single battery is highly advised for rear even for a 1k system because as i have explained before already, low voltage installs, 12v vehicles, have to fight resistance. Thats why large cables are always suggested. its not to handle the current, that's easy. its to fight voltage drop. Electricity flows in the path of least resistance. a battery, power source acts as a buffer for power surges of current demand. What do you think happens to an alternators regulator when you remove the charge cable off the battery? The regulators RELY on a power source to add a load (resistance) to itself so the regulator can properly operate at its set point. The source of power will come from the unit of highest voltage but that voltage will be lower if it has to travel the length of the car to get there without any help. Having a battery in the back reduces potential voltage drop under heavy demand. We are talking 1 battery in the rear.... I have done all kinds of crazy installs. 21kw on 2 batts 12kw on 12 batts Here soon, im doing 120,000w on A123 LiFePo4 cells I know whats necessary as i have to provide this information to our customers for the products we sell. We help build the new 30,000w 12v amp coming soon. i do not recommend people waste money on buying too many batteries but a rear battery or bank is and should be used to combat resistance resulting in unwanted voltage drop thats easily preventable. [/QUOTE]
Insert quotes…
Verification
Post reply
Forum
Car Audio Help
Wiring, Electrical & Installation
Batteries - Which brand How many? Need Help!
Top
Menu
What's new
Forum list
