Basic active subwoofer installation information.

Merton69

CarAudio.com Recruit
27
0
Bristol
New here, so hello to All.
At the young age of 53 I have just bought myself my first car (bl*ody divorce!!).
I have recently bought an InPhase Active Subwoofer that will hook up to my Civic '09's factory Head Unit. Got to keep things cheap as court fees are ££££'s.
Anyway, I have been told that I need an IOC and saw an excellent one on Amazon (SCOSCHE LOC2SL Line-Out Converter with Bass Control) that includes a wire that will connect to the SW's power input that will switch it off and on the the car is switched off and on so it doesn't drain the battery.
Does this mean I don't have to run a power cable from the battery as the instructions suggest please?
Note: The instructions are on the understanding it is an aftermarket car stereo and not a factory head unit.
 

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You do need to run a power wire. There are two wires that handle power.
You have your main power wire that feeds all the current that the load needs that goes to battery/or a 12v source depending on how much is needed.
Then there is what you are wanting, which is a switch wire. It's a very low amount of current that's only purpose is to signal when to be on, as if it's a power button. The main power cable is like plugging it in. This smaller wire, is the power button.

Aftermarket head units have this as a "remote wire", or "amp wire" that is blue with a white stripe. Your factory head unit might have this dedicated wire coming out of the back of it. If not your back up option is to connect it to any accessory wire, (a wire that is on when the key is back, on or running. Your head unit would have this wire behind it that you could always tap into.
 
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Thank you HoW.

I think I understand your excellent explanation......thank you.

So, I will need to run the (yellow cable with added fuse pic) from the battery, along the car and into the S/W.

Then, from the back of the head unit/IOC, I connect the (blue&white cable pic), and run that along the car and into S/W?

Then I buy some left and right speaker cable and attach them to the IOC one side and the other into the S/W?

Have I understood you correctly?

Thanks.
 

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You pretty much have it. Those wires mentioned are for power. You also need the signal. The speaker wire from the LOC to the SW. From the head unit to the LOC, you might be able to tap into the existing wire, you might need to run wire. Not sure exactly on your setup, but you have the idea understood.
 
Again thank you for your time and expertise, HoW. So helpful. ;)

I mentioned in my last post.
"Then I buy some left and right speaker cable and attach them to the IOC one side and the other into the S/W?"

I presume these are the cables you are talking about when it comes to? "You also need the signal."
(See additional image).
 

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I was thinking that most powered units have a built in LOC, but, whatever you do, don’t get the SOSCHE, it does not test clean at any level. The kicker Kicker KISLOC2 is a cleaner way to go, by far. It also does not require you to use the remote turn on from the HU. It generates the turn on voltage from the high level speaker inputs negating the need to use the HU. Here is the unit on Amazon.​

Amazon product ASIN B00I4EF1BC

Here is a YT vid that tells you what I’m talking about.



Just tap into a pair of speaker leads, run power to the powered sub, RCA’s from the LOC set your gains and you’re good to go.
 
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Being that it is an active subwoofer, it should have a built in LOC. The harness that mates into the circled terminal should have those wires that splice onto the OEM speaker's wires.View attachment 51698


Thank you for your input 1aespinoza.

I am not up on all the jargon so I find it difficult to understand what you are kindly explaining.

Attached is an image of the S/W's backplate.

Please can you explain in much simpler terms.

Thank you.
 

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Apologies everyone for the several same posts. For some reason I was getting server error and wouldn't let me post anything. But it has now posted the same one several times! :(
 

I was thinking that most powered units have a built in LOC, but, whatever you do, don’t get the SOSCHE, it does not test clean at any level. The kicker Kicker KISLOC2 is a cleaner way to go, by far. It also does not require you to use the remote turn on from the HU. It generates the turn on voltage from the high level speaker inputs negating the need to use the HU. Here is the unit on Amazon.​

Amazon product ASIN B00I4EF1BC

Here is a YT vid that tells you what I’m talking about.



Just tap into a pair of speaker leads, run power to the powered sub, RCA’s from the LOC set your gains and you’re good to go.

Thanks Doxquzme for your reply.

I am UK based and can't get the Kicker at a cheap price.

I am not after loud super clear audio, just a more bassy sound to enhance the factory audio set up.

Hence, keeping it cheap.
 
I am a bit confused now.

Do I need an LOC or not please?

Some are saying no because the Active S/W has an LOC already built in.
 
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Thank you for your input 1aespinoza.

I am not up on all the jargon so I find it difficult to understand what you are kindly explaining.

Attached is an image of the S/W's backplate.

Please can you explain in much simpler terms.

Thank you.
In the picture I circled the white plug. That white plug that reads "high input" is where your factory speaker's wire will be wired into. You do not need to disconnect the factory speakers, just splice into their wire. Those wires will provide the signal to the amp for the subwoofer.
Since this "high input" already exists, you will not need an Line Output Converter(LOC). When you say IOC, I assume you mean LOC. It is what turns the radio's high output to low output for an amplifier.
Pay no mind to the double posts, we are all having issues. If you need better clarification do not hesitate to ask.
Screenshot_20230820-132816~2.png
 
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Merton69

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