BAD A$$ Cobalt SS Build (Opinions?)

[Johnny Law.Lulz 5,000+ posts]

AQ 3500 would be a nice choice.

 

[grimreper912003 5,000+ posts]

Why ask for advice then not listen to any of it, then ask for more advice //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif

Look for a used amp. More power for cheaper.

Upgrade your electrical. I had 2 batts and a 125a alt, big3 in 1/0 and all 1/0 wiring and I had dips to 12v on 2500w with an efficent amp. Voltage drops will kill your amp.

 

[Omarquez 10+ year member]

do you have a mullet?

Hell yea haha Billy Ray has nothing on me....

 

[Omarquez 10+ year member]

Why ask for advice then not listen to any of it, then ask for more advice //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/rolleyes.gif.c1fef805e9d1464d377451cd5bc18bfb.gif
Look for a used amp. More power for cheaper.

Upgrade your electrical. I had 2 batts and a 125a alt, big3 in 1/0 and all 1/0 wiring and I had dips to 12v on 2500w with an efficent amp. Voltage drops will kill your amp.

Ok i am gonna go with the ap3000d and im gonna do big 3 and a battery and see how that goes then ill see about an alt...thanks for the advice.

 

[(((BOOM))) 10+ year member]

WTF is a "sub stage"?

also, fvcking car audio FAIL

 

[slikrider20 10+ year member]

http://www.electronicexpress.com/product?prod_id=9759

That is the wiring harness you need Omar. Evidently, you have to re-pin some of the connectors and do some other modding with your GM13SR.

Take it directly from the Cobalt SS forum

http://www.cobaltss.net/forums/showthread.php?t=96094

The harness in the link at the top of this post will work, but you will not retain your door chimes/onstar, but who cares. It's a hell of a lot cheaper too.

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

Ok heres the scoop...im pretty new on here so i jus wanted to make this thread to get some opinions. I have an 06 Cobalt SS that i am putting a system in and i will upload some pics when done, but i want to knw what everyone thinks about this setup....Thanks!!
Head Unit: Kenwood DDX-814

Speakers: Stock Pioneer System

Amp: Hifonics BXI2006D

Wire: 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kollosus Flex

Enclosure: 3.2 Cubic feet tuned at 33 hz.

Sub: 1 FI fully Loaded BTL

one cobalt owner to another, ditch the brutus.

upgrade you front stage. find an affordable 50x2 amp and run a decent set of components up front. itll make a world of difference.

electrical....you probably have a stock 120amp alty, youll wanna get at least one hc2400 or (like i did and couldnt be happier) one XS d3100 for the trunk. I have my car and system off the one big bat. In time youll wanna get an HO alty if you plan on running over 2.5kw. http://www.hoalternators.com makes a 240amp alty for cobalts. it was really hard to find a company that made them for my year cobalt.

as for amps. if you're on a budget and can do 1 ohm then get a power acoustik a3000db, or other amp with the same board (theres like 3 or 4 other brands with that board). If 2 ohm if the needed load get a massive p3000.1. the only hifonics that are worth the time of day are the xx and xxv series IMO. you'll wanna stick around the 2kw - 2.5kw rms to make that btl sing.

hopefully you already have the box in the trunk. my box is 3cubs @ 33hz and i had to cut away at some of the sheet metal behind the carpet cardboard lining at the trunk/seat opening to make the opening 17.5in. from there i slid the box into the trunk from the cabin side with the seats down. I had to remove the bat for that but i eventually rewired the bat to be closer to the amp with 4awg running from the stock bat terminals to the new battery location near the box and amp. the box size is a good call. my 15 sings with this box. im assuming you're using a 15 with that volume.

i also had a problem with my spare tire well getting ripped open from the violent vibrations as the waves through that area. after the first week or so find where it getting the most stress and deaden it. if you wait too long you might end up with more headaches. After reinforcing the large cracked tire well i eventually moved my box by a few inches and the main sound wave stopped going down through the tire well and now up over the box and through the back dash. i know this because after moving the box by those few in my rear fill speaker cones would get over thrown on the heavy bass notes. i ended up ditching the rear fill and it worked out fine. as long as you have a solid front stage youll be fine. there's a thread i made with pics abotu my tire well and my attempt to repair it. the initial repair of sanding, jb weld, and 2 layers of deadener on each side only held for a few months. i went back and did about 5 layers on each side and it held //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

hope this helps. if you have any other questions PM me

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

make sure you're grounds are solid and you use decent RCA's. i got some nasty alt whine that im still trying to fix. im sure its my rca's...

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

the audio pipe 3000d is a decent amp. if you can get it for 300 ish its worth it, i wouldnt spend more than 325, thats just me...

 

[Omarquez 10+ year member]

the audio pipe 3000d is a decent amp. if you can get it for 300 ish its worth it, i wouldnt spend more than 325, thats just me...

**** bro ur a lot of help...thanx alot but i have a guy whos gonna rhino line the whole trunk well see how that works and i am gonna buy the ap3000d...but im gonna run stock speakers till i have to replace them...and if i remember right my box is 3.2 cubes but it dnt matter...haha a jigsaw is in my posession //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

yeah you can just carerfully move up the carpeted cardboard exterior behind the back seats and you'll see where you can take off a good inch or two of that metal lip. it'll be like 2 or 3 layers of sheet metal but with some ear plugs and a few blades you can hack that **** out. remember to buff it afterwards the best you can because those sharp egdges will tear up anything that rubs across it (boc carpet, arm flesh, etc...)

this should help if you have tweeter mounting questions

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=431411

and here's my violated tire well...

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=397109

 

[Omarquez 10+ year member]

one cobalt owner to another, ditch the brutus.
upgrade you front stage. find an affordable 50x2 amp and run a decent set of components up front. itll make a world of difference.

electrical....you probably have a stock 120amp alty, youll wanna get at least one hc2400 or (like i did and couldnt be happier) one XS d3100 for the trunk. I have my car and system off the one big bat. In time youll wanna get an HO alty if you plan on running over 2.5kw. http://www.hoalternators.com makes a 240amp alty for cobalts. it was really hard to find a company that made them for my year cobalt.

as for amps. if you're on a budget and can do 1 ohm then get a power acoustik a3000db, or other amp with the same board (theres like 3 or 4 other brands with that board). If 2 ohm if the needed load get a massive p3000.1. the only hifonics that are worth the time of day are the xx and xxv series IMO. you'll wanna stick around the 2kw - 2.5kw rms to make that btl sing.

hopefully you already have the box in the trunk. my box is 3cubs @ 33hz and i had to cut away at some of the sheet metal behind the carpet cardboard lining at the trunk/seat opening to make the opening 17.5in. from there i slid the box into the trunk from the cabin side with the seats down. I had to remove the bat for that but i eventually rewired the bat to be closer to the amp with 4awg running from the stock bat terminals to the new battery location near the box and amp. the box size is a good call. my 15 sings with this box. im assuming you're using a 15 with that volume.

i also had a problem with my spare tire well getting ripped open from the violent vibrations as the waves through that area. after the first week or so find where it getting the most stress and deaden it. if you wait too long you might end up with more headaches. After reinforcing the large cracked tire well i eventually moved my box by a few inches and the main sound wave stopped going down through the tire well and now up over the box and through the back dash. i know this because after moving the box by those few in my rear fill speaker cones would get over thrown on the heavy bass notes. i ended up ditching the rear fill and it worked out fine. as long as you have a solid front stage youll be fine. there's a thread i made with pics abotu my tire well and my attempt to repair it. the initial repair of sanding, jb weld, and 2 layers of deadener on each side only held for a few months. i went back and did about 5 layers on each side and it held //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

hope this helps. if you have any other questions PM me

Hey i tried that HO website and they dnt list a cobalt in there vehicle outfit...?

 

[BassAddictJ 5,000+ posts]

call them directly and ask. my 07 cobalt was a ***** to find one thatll fit.

1 866 446 8878. i believe they're called american power systems now

ask for phillip. im pretty sure the prices are going to be around 500 ish....but you get what you pay for. and nothings worse than blowing amps because of low voltage...an dits a nice feeling pushing 3kw+ and still staying at 14.4

also, cobalts i believe have their alty voltage regulated externally. the stock alty will dip back down to 12.8v with the car running if it senses the battery is fully charged. The new HO alty will do the same thing, but if you bump it a lil bit itll sense the current demand and start pumping out more current.