Audio Components - Technical Advice Needed


Sawyer

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jul 29, 2020
3
0
Portland, OR
Hello All,
I am new to this forum and am new to car audio components/setups. I tried doing as much research as I could before my head exploded as there is so much to consider when deciding on your components. I have a 14 Tacoma Double Cab (no JBL) and plan on adding a head unit, speakers, 2 10" subs and 2 amps. Below is a list of the components I have decided on, can the experts here tell me if everything looks like it will match (specifically the amps/speakers/subs)? I want to make sure I have my watts, ohms and anything else covered before pulling the trigger. Let me know your thoughts or concerns!

Head Unit: Kenwood - 7" - Android Auto/Apple® CarPlay™ - Built-in Bluetooth - In-Dash Digital Media Receiver - Black

JL Front Door Speakers/Tweeters: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C2650/JL-Audio-C2650.html

JL Rear Door Speakers: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C2650X/JL-Audio-C2-650X.html

10" Kicker subs (2): https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker...-ohms-subwoofer-black/5190204.p?skuId=5190204

Front/Rear Speaker Amp: KICKER - PXA-Series 300W Class D Amplifier with Selectable Electronic Crossover - Black

Sub Amp: KICKER - CX 1200W Class D Digital Mono Amplifier with Variable Low-Pass Crossover - Black

Sub Box: https://www.ctsounds.com/products/b...ble-cab-2005-2019?_pos=9&_sid=a2fe4dc4b&_ss=r
 

BCotrell

Senior VIP Member
May 27, 2015
1,054
206
irvine, ca
Big sound in tacos is Easy to achieve. Your route with component selection/location i would give a 5/10. Ideas

-Skip upgrading rear door(could even leave em disconnected).

-get a deck that has active/network capability and run front (tweeter), mid (front door6.5) and rear(sub). You will have better loud, tunability, and blending factoring the distance between your front stage and subs.this will be less money too. That kenwood doesn’t do active. The excelon model (dmx706s)has active. You don’t need that short chassis design for your truck. I like this pioneer better for a 7” screen


- I’d Pass on everyone of those speaker, woofer, and amp choices for the output/quality/cost
Value.

- get an enclosure that’sdesigned for the subs you choose. I’f you’re not going to install go/find a local competent installer to build you an enclosure to the sub specs.
 
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OP
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Sawyer

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jul 29, 2020
3
0
Portland, OR
Big sound in tacos is Easy to achieve. Your route with component selection/location i would give a 5/10. Ideas

-Skip upgrading rear door(could even leave em disconnected).

-get a deck that has active/network capability and run front (tweeter), mid (front door6.5) and rear(sub). You will have better loud, tunability, and blending factoring the distance between your front stage and subs.this will be less money too. That kenwood doesn’t do active. The excelon model (dmx706s)has active. You don’t need that short chassis design for your truck. I like this pioneer better for a 7” screen


- I’d Pass on everyone of those speaker, woofer, and amp choices for the output/quality/cost
Value.

- get an enclosure that’sdesigned for the subs you choose. I’f you’re not going to install go/find a local competent installer to build you an enclosure to the sub specs.
Lulz, thanks for the score. Next!
 

BCotrell

Senior VIP Member
May 27, 2015
1,054
206
irvine, ca
Lulz, thanks for the score. Next!
not sure how to receive that. I gave you the longest
And realest answer you will likely get for a noob post asking about your setup and the assumption that you didn’t use any of the search function to search old threads. If you mean on to the next Response it will likely only be from someone tells you your Selections **** and are all overpriced without giving you any constructive direction.
 
OP
S

Sawyer

CarAudio.com Newbie
Jul 29, 2020
3
0
Portland, OR
not sure how to receive that. I gave you the longest
And realest answer you will likely get for a noob post asking about your setup and the assumption that you didn’t use any of the search function to search old threads. If you mean on to the next Response it will likely only be from someone tells you your Selections **** and are all overpriced without giving you any constructive direction.
Lulz, reported. It was obvious from your original post the kind of person you are, now it is confirmed. Willing to take some reasonable advice at a reasonable tone (e.g. not a condescending douche) without scores from anyone who is willing to have that reasonable discussion.
 

BCotrell

Senior VIP Member
May 27, 2015
1,054
206
irvine, ca
A Score gives you a starting off point, I guess saying your initial selections were super mediocre at best Is the delivery of choice for over sensitive libtard gen-z’ers. See I can make errant And inaccurate assumptions based on toneless message board thread responses too.

it started with you asking “technical advice”
on a zero parts Gear list lob thread, then you shit on the first person to give you solid insight citing dochey delivery. Man if you stick around you’re going to hate this forum ...there aren’t many contributors that specialize in the language of coddle culture

my intent was to give you sound insight and maximize your pending investment, now I’m only in it to see the responses
 
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OldFartAudio

CarAudio.com Well Known
Jul 20, 2020
107
20
Lewisville, TX
The link took me to a dual 2 ohm sub. You want dual 4 ohm subs wired all in parallel to get a 1 ohm load which the mono amp is rated for. I am assuming you are wanting to compete in sound quality because you are looking at 2 tens instead of 4 18” s. For sound Q the previous post is accurate, you don’t need rear speakers. Also the money you don’t spend on rear speakers can be put to use on better front speakers, not that the JL’s you selected are bad but you might be able to get the next model up. If you are set on the products you have selected then they look fine except for the subwoofers. Kicker will make the same ones with dual 4 ohm coils so no biggie. I think that either way you go you will enjoy the system. For IASCA sound q you will also want to turn down the bass more than you think. Good luck.
 

Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
768
174
United States
Hello All,
I am new to this forum and am new to car audio components/setups. I tried doing as much research as I could before my head exploded as there is so much to consider when deciding on your components. I have a 14 Tacoma Double Cab (no JBL) and plan on adding a head unit, speakers, 2 10" subs and 2 amps. Below is a list of the components I have decided on, can the experts here tell me if everything looks like it will match (specifically the amps/speakers/subs)? I want to make sure I have my watts, ohms and anything else covered before pulling the trigger. Let me know your thoughts or concerns!

Head Unit: Kenwood - 7" - Android Auto/Apple® CarPlay™ - Built-in Bluetooth - In-Dash Digital Media Receiver - Black

JL Front Door Speakers/Tweeters: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C2650/JL-Audio-C2650.html

JL Rear Door Speakers: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C2650X/JL-Audio-C2-650X.html

10" Kicker subs (2): https://www.bestbuy.com/site/kicker...-ohms-subwoofer-black/5190204.p?skuId=5190204

Front/Rear Speaker Amp: KICKER - PXA-Series 300W Class D Amplifier with Selectable Electronic Crossover - Black

Sub Amp: KICKER - CX 1200W Class D Digital Mono Amplifier with Variable Low-Pass Crossover - Black

Sub Box: https://www.ctsounds.com/products/b...ble-cab-2005-2019?_pos=9&_sid=a2fe4dc4b&_ss=r
Headunit's good.

Front door speakers are good.

I happen to agree with BCotrell that you'll get more bang for the buck leaving out the rear speakers from the upgrade party and investing in better subwoofers. Rear door speakers add surprisingly little to a build, especially if there's no deadening behind them. I personally would leave the rear stock ones connected to the head unit and worry about them after I've addressed the rest of the system.

https://www.kicker.com/12CX12001#specsection is a better link for that amplifier, Best Buy unsurprisingly uses maximum and RMS interchangeably which is misleading. Your selection of subs is underpowered if you'd like to get the most out of the amp. You'll still want two dual 2 ohm voice coil subs, but in the 600W rms range, 400W is a bit low especially for Kicker which doesn't underrate their subs by 33%, maybe 10% but their SQ isn't known to be great. If I were you I'd omit the rear speaker upgrade and use the money to step up to 2 DVC subs in the 550-600W range. You can always meter your amp in, but since you haven't bought them yet I would say buying stuff with the expectation of upgrading it soon is bad particularly when the proper enclosure hinges on the future choices.

As I said, enclosure will depend on the subwoofers chosen.

Edit: 4-channel amp's good.

Also the mono-amp is only stable down to 2 ohms, so the 4 ohm DVC suggestion isn't correct. I don't know why the sites are so shitty about wording on the ratings for it. Switched from Crutchfield link to Kicker link which shows 1200Wx1 @ 2ohms, so it's not 1 ohm stable and you'll want 2 DVCs 2ohm 550-600W subs for that reason.
 
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BCotrell

Senior VIP Member
May 27, 2015
1,054
206
irvine, ca
Headunit's good.

Front door speakers are good.

I happen to agree with BCotrell that you'll get more bang for the buck leaving out the rear speakers from the upgrade party and investing in better subwoofers. Rear door speakers add surprisingly little to a build, especially if there's no deadening behind them. I personally would leave the rear stock ones connected to the head unit and worry about them after I've addressed the rest of the system.

https://www.kicker.com/12CX12001#specsection is a better link for that amplifier, Best Buy unsurprisingly uses maximum and RMS interchangeably which is misleading. Your selection of subs is underpowered if you'd like to get the most out of the amp. You'll still want two dual 2 ohm voice coil subs, but in the 600W rms range, 400W is a bit low especially for Kicker which doesn't underrate their subs by 33%, maybe 10% but their SQ isn't known to be great. If I were you I'd omit the rear speaker upgrade and use the money to step up to 2 DVC subs in the 550-600W range. You can always meter your amp in, but since you haven't bought them yet I would say buying stuff with the expectation of upgrading it soon is bad particularly when the proper enclosure hinges on the future choices.

As I said, enclosure will depend on the subwoofers chosen.

Edit: 4-channel amp's good.

Also the mono-amp is only stable down to 2 ohms, so the 4 ohm DVC suggestion isn't correct. I don't know why the sites are so shitty about wording on the ratings for it. Switched from Crutchfield link to Kicker link which shows 1200Wx1 @ 2ohms, so it's not 1 ohm stable and you'll want 2 DVCs 2ohm 550-600W subs for that reason.
For $269 on that Comp set I’ll take flutes and ct2’s (or a number of alternatives on parts express), invest a few more bucks in my headunit for better crossover Control, grab 36 sq ft of noico to soundtreat them big metal Toyota doors, and still pocket $50 bucks.

also, $230 for a 4x50 amp and $350 for a 600 watt amp. $580 for maybe 800 watts is not great value Way more options for separate amps value wise. a gmd9705 5 channel will put out the same audible power as the amps he listed.

that was General direction of my feedback but op got caught in his feelings.
 

Lasherž

CarAudio.com Veteran
Apr 27, 2020
768
174
United States
For $269 on that Comp set I’ll take flutes and ct2’s (or a number of alternatives on parts express), invest a few more bucks in my headunit for better crossover Control, grab 36 sq ft of noico to soundtreat them big metal Toyota doors, and still pocket $50 bucks.

also, $230 for a 4x50 amp and $350 for a 600 watt amp. $580 for maybe 800 watts is not great value Way more options for separate amps value wise. a gmd9705 5 channel will put out the same audible power as the amps he listed.

that was General direction of my feedback but op got caught in his feelings.
Yeah that sounds better for sure. It is what it is, I guess if strangers treat you like you're one of the club too quickly you're bound to get offended quick fast in a hurry if you don't have a thick skin.

The amp he mentioned is 1200W @ 2 ohms RMS despite the horrible layout by Best Buy. gmd9705 would be good. With the price ranges he's at and with the subs he listed it sounds like a 5-channel would be better unless he really does want to ditch the subs and pursue some to match. I would lean towards https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R21200X/Rockford-Fosgate-R2-1200X1.html instead of the kicker or maybe a taramps. I think both brands you get more for your money, but you've just gotta be careful to get a taramp with variable filters. That would mean 2 DVC @ 4ohm subs instead, but slightly more power for the money. My R2-1200x1 is pretty far under rated according to the third party tests RF uses anyways.
 

OldFartAudio

CarAudio.com Well Known
Jul 20, 2020
107
20
Lewisville, TX
Headunit's good.

Front door speakers are good.

I happen to agree with BCotrell that you'll get more bang for the buck leaving out the rear speakers from the upgrade party and investing in better subwoofers. Rear door speakers add surprisingly little to a build, especially if there's no deadening behind them. I personally would leave the rear stock ones connected to the head unit and worry about them after I've addressed the rest of the system.

https://www.kicker.com/12CX12001#specsection is a better link for that amplifier, Best Buy unsurprisingly uses maximum and RMS interchangeably which is misleading. Your selection of subs is underpowered if you'd like to get the most out of the amp. You'll still want two dual 2 ohm voice coil subs, but in the 600W rms range, 400W is a bit low especially for Kicker which doesn't underrate their subs by 33%, maybe 10% but their SQ isn't known to be great. If I were you I'd omit the rear speaker upgrade and use the money to step up to 2 DVC subs in the 550-600W range. You can always meter your amp in, but since you haven't bought them yet I would say buying stuff with the expectation of upgrading it soon is bad particularly when the proper enclosure hinges on the future choices.

As I said, enclosure will depend on the subwoofers chosen.

Edit: 4-channel amp's good.

Also the mono-amp is only stable down to 2 ohms, so the 4 ohm DVC suggestion isn't correct. I don't know why the sites are so shitty about wording on the ratings for it. Switched from Crutchfield link to Kicker link which shows 1200Wx1 @ 2ohms, so it's not 1 ohm stable and you'll want 2 DVCs 2ohm 550-600W subs for that reason.
My bad, I should have done a little more investigation before my reply 👌
 

stephgirl

Member
Mar 5, 2014
294
24
Covina CA
I have a 2004 X-cab Tacoma

Have a Pioneer FH-S701BS HU, Pioneer TS-Z65CH Hi Def component speakers front, Kenwood Excelon XR401-4 Hi Def x2 amps one bridged subs, one 4ch mid & tweet & rear, Pioneer 6x8 coaxial read panels, Subs Polk Audio 8" x2 in old Kicker Substation tube boxes.

Rear 6x8 are mild sound with just little rear fill. Sound system sounds good and is Hi Def rated. The Pioneer has active on HU. If you don't need a screen it is an affordable cost unit. It is a discontinued HU end of 2019 but still can be found. Great HU for the cost. The Pioneer component speakers sound great.

Getting two Pioneer GM-DX874 4ch amps to install. There in shipment & soon to be installed.

Just don't need a lot of equipment to get plenty of great sound & volume out of a smaller cab area.



Wish you the best, enjoy
 

BCotrell

Senior VIP Member
May 27, 2015
1,054
206
irvine, ca
Yeah I really like that rf 1200. Birth sheets like 1400 ish
I have a 2004 X-cab Tacoma

Have a Pioneer FH-S701BS HU, Pioneer TS-Z65CH Hi Def component speakers front, Kenwood Excelon XR401-4 Hi Def x2 amps one bridged subs, one 4ch mid & tweet & rear, Pioneer 6x8 coaxial read panels, Subs Polk Audio 8" x2 in old Kicker Substation tube boxes.

Rear 6x8 are mild sound with just little rear fill. Sound system sounds good and is Hi Def rated. The Pioneer has active on HU. If you don't need a screen it is an affordable cost unit. It is a discontinued HU end of 2019 but still can be found. Great HU for the cost. The Pioneer component speakers sound great.

Getting two Pioneer GM-DX874 4ch amps to install. There in shipment & soon to be installed.

Just don't need a lot of equipment to get plenty of great sound & volume out of a smaller cab area.



Wish you the best, enjoy
I had the older version of that deck in my sequoia when I wanted to fill a 2din slot without the gap and didn’t want a screen. It was a good unit but mine didn’t have active. have you personally tried connecting those Front components separately from the passive crossover direct to each amp channel and leverage your deck for crossover? Probably could optimize sound even more and will really open up when you get your 8704.
 

stephgirl

Member
Mar 5, 2014
294
24
Covina CA
Yeah I really like that rf 1200. Birth sheets like 1400 ish

I had the older version of that deck in my sequoia when I wanted to fill a 2din slot without the gap and didn’t want a screen. It was a good unit but mine didn’t have active. have you personally tried connecting those Front components separately from the passive crossover direct to each amp channel and leverage your deck for crossover? Probably could optimize sound even more and will really open up when you get your 8704.
The Pioneer HU is a great unit and i got it on Crutchfeild at about $150 few years ago. I use the 6 ch rca output to front, rear, sub. 4V output is nice. Sub output is active at 80 LP and the others are at 80 HP. The amps do the rest. I don't do anything special and front and rear speakers are at standard 4 ohm 4 ch and sub is bridged at 2 ch 4 ohm. It is loud being it is a smaller cab area to fill for sound. But i will increase the power little more when i get the new Pioneer GM-DX874. Not the 8704 but the 874. Yes there is 2 types of the same amp. According to the Pioneer web site, One is Hi Def rated with "hi quality sound parts" better parts inside. I been seeing deals for some Factory refurbished units on internet recently and decided to pull trigger for the new GM-DX874. $150. I have had good luck with only factory refurbished stuff and not 3rd party. Purchased many stuff over the years. Some have different opinions on this but i ONLY buy factory refurbished. Factory knows there stuff and in many cases there is no issues with the item but only that it was opened and returned or a small cosmetic defect or something that does not affect the use of the item. So at $150 with warranty is a great deal on the Budget Gem Pioneer GM-DX874. The rating , My Kenwood Excelon XR401-4 put out 75w 4ch. Pioneer does 100w 4ch and a little better on the bridged 2ch side at 300w
2ch. Kenwood at 200w 2ch bridged. So the extra 100w will make my Polk Subs sound a little better i think.


In the past old school there was the Kicker substation sub tubes that were very popular and sounded great. I loved them and they were the tubes with a flat bottom and did not roll around and fit great in the back of my X-cab. Today they are very hard to find. I had 2 sets pair of 6 inch and 8 inch. So i saw the Polk 8 inch subs and at good price and thought to call the techs at Polk here in CA on the specs and asked them if they would fit and sound good in the Old Kicker tubes boxes. They said yes, they would be a good replacement for the aging kicker subs.

The Pioneer TS-Z65CH Hi Def component speakers sound nice. And the price was good for a hi end component speakers. I read stuff on internet and some reviews and they said they were good. So i got them. They said they were designed and made in a special lab at Pioneer to be hi end. they sound nice. To me the tweeters sound good and not harsh like some tweets I had in past.

So in end i have been happy with the system and with the new Pioneer amps will be even better i hope
 
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