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General Car Audio
Audio Components - Technical Advice Needed
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<blockquote data-quote="Lasherž" data-source="post: 8712904" data-attributes="member: 679555"><p>Headunit's good.</p><p></p><p>Front door speakers are good.</p><p></p><p>I happen to agree with BCotrell that you'll get more bang for the buck leaving out the rear speakers from the upgrade party and investing in better subwoofers. Rear door speakers add surprisingly little to a build, especially if there's no deadening behind them. I personally would leave the rear stock ones connected to the head unit and worry about them after I've addressed the rest of the system.</p><p></p><p><a href="https://www.kicker.com/12CX12001#specsection" target="_blank">https://www.kicker.com/12CX12001#specsection</a> is a better link for that amplifier, Best Buy unsurprisingly uses maximum and RMS interchangeably which is misleading. Your selection of subs is underpowered if you'd like to get the most out of the amp. You'll still want two dual 2 ohm voice coil subs, but in the 600W rms range, 400W is a bit low especially for Kicker which doesn't underrate their subs by 33%, maybe 10% but their SQ isn't known to be great. If I were you I'd omit the rear speaker upgrade and use the money to step up to 2 DVC subs in the 550-600W range. You can always meter your amp in, but since you haven't bought them yet I would say buying stuff with the expectation of upgrading it soon is bad particularly when the proper enclosure hinges on the future choices.</p><p></p><p>As I said, enclosure will depend on the subwoofers chosen.</p><p></p><p>Edit: 4-channel amp's good.</p><p></p><p>Also the mono-amp is only stable down to 2 ohms, so the 4 ohm DVC suggestion isn't correct. I don't know why the sites are so shitty about wording on the ratings for it. Switched from Crutchfield link to Kicker link which shows 1200Wx1 @ 2ohms, so it's not 1 ohm stable and you'll want 2 DVCs 2ohm 550-600W subs for that reason.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Lasherž, post: 8712904, member: 679555"] Headunit's good. Front door speakers are good. I happen to agree with BCotrell that you'll get more bang for the buck leaving out the rear speakers from the upgrade party and investing in better subwoofers. Rear door speakers add surprisingly little to a build, especially if there's no deadening behind them. I personally would leave the rear stock ones connected to the head unit and worry about them after I've addressed the rest of the system. [URL]https://www.kicker.com/12CX12001#specsection[/URL] is a better link for that amplifier, Best Buy unsurprisingly uses maximum and RMS interchangeably which is misleading. Your selection of subs is underpowered if you'd like to get the most out of the amp. You'll still want two dual 2 ohm voice coil subs, but in the 600W rms range, 400W is a bit low especially for Kicker which doesn't underrate their subs by 33%, maybe 10% but their SQ isn't known to be great. If I were you I'd omit the rear speaker upgrade and use the money to step up to 2 DVC subs in the 550-600W range. You can always meter your amp in, but since you haven't bought them yet I would say buying stuff with the expectation of upgrading it soon is bad particularly when the proper enclosure hinges on the future choices. As I said, enclosure will depend on the subwoofers chosen. Edit: 4-channel amp's good. Also the mono-amp is only stable down to 2 ohms, so the 4 ohm DVC suggestion isn't correct. I don't know why the sites are so shitty about wording on the ratings for it. Switched from Crutchfield link to Kicker link which shows 1200Wx1 @ 2ohms, so it's not 1 ohm stable and you'll want 2 DVCs 2ohm 550-600W subs for that reason. [/QUOTE]
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