APSM-1500 has changed my mind..

i have my apsm1500 on the new rf t212, in a 2ft ported tuned at 33hrtz, and it does just fine on the lows. it gets warm but not hot. i had the apsm1300, the fan would whine for about 10-15 seconds then it would be fine don't have that issue with the 1500. i run it at 2ohms. i will be getting the 2000 when it drops.

 
well seeing as the ground is more accesible and faster to fix why not fix that then bump your system hard and see if its fixed ? :p
Haha very true, I guess I can find a better point to ground too, sand that really good along with the terminal bottom (so copper is showing) then screw it down. If it works would be nice. Pulling the HU out is a bi**h lol.

 
So I got my APSM-1500 finally today. Installed it and wow, it blows my brz 1200d out of the water. (at least it seems that way)
I thought it would be a peice of junk for $115 shipped to be honest. On the brz I had to have the headunit bass boost and amp bass boost turned up to hear anything decently loud. Now, with this amp the bass boost is off on both head unit and amp. I just have the gain maybe half way if even that. The "Bass volume" +3/8 which seems respectable.

I have some ideas to keep the amp off the carpet, which sort of defeats the purpose of the fan when your getting no airflow. Fabricating some sort of mount to keep the amp off the carpet, shouldn't be too hard.

I know there is better amps out there, but for this price it seriously can't be beat (new) and probably used.

Now, lets see how long the amp lasts. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/clap.gif.178cba2c538c68e720c727fcb024b19c.gif

Well no one said it's a "bad" amp, I had an AP3k and mine never went into protect or anything strange until I sold it to some kid who used an alligator clamp as his ground... the amp went into protect and all he said was "oh that's voltage drop for ya." I took his money and felt really bad for that amp because it worked good when I had it.

People say it's not a good amp because for one it's cheap, and cheap means it isn't built as well and they skimp on things like cosmetics (I think my AP3k is butt-ugly), good-quality ball-bearing fans, corrosion-resistant x-over controls, gold-plated terminals, better internal parts... things like that. Two, because it's cheap the amp is now competing against many other better quality brands and some of us don't want to see the market flooded by cheap amps and have newbies think their cheap amps are just as good as amps that cost twice as much or more. Kinda like young punks who think just because they can play Enter Sandman by Metallica on their guitars they all the sudden think they're just as good as Metallica back in their prime.

 
It's ghettoed up right now but I have only have the amp less than a day.
jGv9MnMcTRIZl.jpg


Amp ground:

jzM5gTjEVr8zF.jpg


the crimp is fu**ked up I know. But it's really snug, might not be getting the proper ground as it's not sanded on the bolt surrounding.

I noticed yesterday when I added my head unit ground to the frame inside of the dash it helped stop this stopping mid song. I also noticed the heatsink on the back of the headunit was super hot when I was testing with it out of the dash when I hooked up the amp for the first time.
That bolt is heavily coated and that will cause a loss. might try a grinder w/ a steel brush to knock that heavy coating off the bolt, sand underneath the frame the terminal is presses to..you need metal to metal all the way to the battery. Might try grounding your hu under the dash to the firewall, or straight to the battery as well.

 
I was about to say "I don't know why everyone hates on the AP mini 1500" but then I mentally answered my own question. Audiopipe blows.. usually. However.. these have been proven time and time again to pack a true rated punch. No BS. At 1 ohm they have clamped 1500wrms time and time again. Videos are there to prove it.

Whether you think I'm right or wrong.. I do not care. Educate yourself. Do the research, don't just ask questions. Look. Read. Do REAL RESEARCH. Buy and test. That's half of the reason 12v audio has declined like it has.. it's just dummies leading dummies. No more research and development.

 
It's ghettoed up right now but I have only have the amp less than a day.
jGv9MnMcTRIZl.jpg


Amp ground:

jzM5gTjEVr8zF.jpg


Dude, that is one GHETTO azz install. I see bare power wires sticking out of the amp's power input, the ground isn't crimped correctly, the grounding point is not clean, and I really hope that box is bolted down or at least strapped to something so the box don't fly through that opening and crack your skull if you get into an accident at speed.

Come on man, car audio is supposed to be a lot more professional than that.

 
Dude, that is one GHETTO azz install. I see bare power wires sticking out of the amp's power input, the ground isn't crimped correctly, the grounding point is not clean, and I really hope that box is bolted down or at least strapped to something so the box don't fly through that opening and crack your skull if you get into an accident at speed.

Come on man, car audio is supposed to be a lot more professional than that.
These pictures were taken at my home, of course my box is secured dude, I'm not risking damaging the subs/me lol. I know this crimp is messed up like I said, but I need to order more terminals or just get myself some 1/0. Yes the wire is showing on the power/ground of the amp, I was testing the amp for temperatures. Fixed this this evening.

So guys I didn't touch my ground at all.. and it seems to be working fine now lol.. Get this though.. I was in trafic and some idiot pull out in front of me, and I got mad and hit my steering wheel and it stopped my music :O

I also noted going over anything kinda harsh (railroad tracks etc) it skipped off then continued playing a couple seconds after "Reading" It's like the amp head unit loses signal momentarily then comes back within a few seconds.

I'm going to work on my grounding point some tomorrow, like quack said I'll take the grinder to the nut/bolt/body of the car underneath that seat rail to get a near perfect ground.

 
These pictures were taken at my home, of course my box is secured dude, I'm not risking damaging the subs/me lol. I know this crimp is messed up like I said, but I need to order more terminals or just get myself some 1/0. Yes the wire is showing on the power/ground of the amp, I was testing the amp for temperatures. Fixed this this evening.
So guys I didn't touch my ground at all.. and it seems to be working fine now lol.. Get this though.. I was in trafic and some idiot pull out in front of me, and I got mad and hit my steering wheel and it stopped my music :O

I also noted going over anything kinda harsh (railroad tracks etc) it skipped off then continued playing a couple seconds after "Reading" It's like the amp head unit loses signal momentarily then comes back within a few seconds.

I'm going to work on my grounding point some tomorrow, like quack said I'll take the grinder to the nut/bolt/body of the car underneath that seat rail to get a near perfect ground.
Pretty easy solution... Does only your bass stop? Or your car speakers as well?

If your car speakers + sub amp all cut out, its your headunit that is out of whack.

If just your sub amp cuts out, its something with your ground/amp/signal

 
Everything cuts off, then head unit turns on few seconds later. Nah no cd, just music from my USB input. Seems like it does it after 25+ minutes of play time. Can the headunit overheat? Like I said before the headunit heatsink on the back gets hot af. So it's my head unit then, I'll look into this.

 
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