APSM-1500 has changed my mind..

Yeah so I got some temps for you guys interested.

72f not turned on. (72 ambient temp outside) After about 5 minutes it rose to 85f or so. Well after getting to work 30 min drive it was 106f :O all these temps were on the heatsink on the outside of the amp. This is just laying on my carpet for now until I get a chance to make spacers for the feet. It really wasn't very hot to the touch on the top of the amp, which means the heatsinks are doing their job. Will update this later after I get the amp properly installed and lifted from the carpet so the fan can breath and circulate air underneath. 30+ degree temp rise is kinda high lol.

 
Yeah I get your CPU heat sink reference. Especially since I overclock gaming PC's as a hobby, and heat along with unstable voltages are my enemies lol.
I'll see how raising the feet up does for cooling. I have a lazer-pointing thermometer I can use as reference for temperatures. It won't be 100% accurate but will help me gauge what helps and what does not cooling wise. Probably just going to use the existing amp screw holes and make a small metal fan frame, screw the fan into place. Have the fan directing air straight down the heat sink.

I want to see this haha.
amp sold before i could

 
Yeah so I got some temps for you guys interested.
72f not turned on. (72 ambient temp outside) After about 5 minutes it rose to 85f or so. Well after getting to work 30 min drive it was 106f :O all these temps were on the heatsink on the outside of the amp. This is just laying on my carpet for now until I get a chance to make spacers for the feet. It really wasn't very hot to the touch on the top of the amp, which means the heatsinks are doing their job. Will update this later after I get the amp properly installed and lifted from the carpet so the fan can breath and circulate air underneath. 30+ degree temp rise is kinda high lol.
hey you keep an IR temp gun in your car too? That really isn't bad at all I can drive my amps to 170f on my class A/B highs amp and 140f on my class D sub amp on a decent ride.

 
hey you keep an IR temp gun in your car too? That really isn't bad at all I can drive my amps to 170f on my class A/B highs amp and 140f on my class D sub amp on a decent ride.
Yeah but it's raining out and getting cooler out by the day. I'm sure it will get much higher over an hour or so drive (Which I do quite often) I drive 8-10 hours a week on average. So... I'm going to be putting this amp to the test lol. Still VERY happy with my results so far.

Check out the vid I took last night, my port would never do this before on the brz 1200 lol.


 
Yeah I get your CPU heat sink reference. Especially since I overclock gaming PC's as a hobby, and heat along with unstable voltages are my enemies lol.
I'll see how raising the feet up does for cooling. I have a lazer-pointing thermometer I can use as reference for temperatures. It won't be 100% accurate but will help me gauge what helps and what does not cooling wise. Probably just going to use the existing amp screw holes and make a small metal fan frame, screw the fan into place. Have the fan directing air straight down the heat sink.

I want to see this haha.
Yeah but it's raining out and getting cooler out by the day. I'm sure it will get much higher over an hour or so drive (Which I do quite often) I drive 8-10 hours a week on average. So... I'm going to be putting this amp to the test lol. Still VERY happy with my results so far.
Check out the vid I took last night, my port would never do this before on the brz 1200 lol.


 
since we are charing.
That's awesome lol.

I sort of want to fire my sa-8 v2's into the cabin, but I don't know how well they will do :3 Think I will get more output vs firing towards trunk lid with seats down? (like I already do)

I sorta regret getting the $85 sa-8 v2 from the sundown yard sale, because of the tick it makes at high excursion and sometimes different noises. But it works just fine, just sort of annoying. Re-cone? I have never re-coned a sub let alone take one apart lol.

 
That's awesome lol.
I sort of want to fire my sa-8 v2's into the cabin, but I don't know how well they will do :3 Think I will get more output vs firing towards trunk lid with seats down? (like I already do)

I sorta regret getting the $85 sa-8 v2 from the sundown yard sale, because of the tick it makes at high excursion and sometimes different noises. But it works just fine, just sort of annoying. Re-cone? I have never re-coned a sub let alone take one apart lol.
dont fire them forward. know how your car reacts first then determine it. pop the trunk open scoot the subs all the way up to the cabin see if you gain trunk must be open. the other is all the way back facing forward trunk closed. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif spend 2 months on my first wall attempt to seal it right

 
dont fire them forward. know how your car reacts first then determine it. pop the trunk open scoot the subs all the way up to the cabin see if you gain trunk must be open. the other is all the way back facing forward trunk closed. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/thumbsup.gif.3287b36ca96645a13a43aff531f37f02.gif spend 2 months on my first wall attempt to seal it right
scoot the subs all the way back to the cabin still firing towards the trunk with seats down? My car sounds like sh*t unless I have the seats down.

Would all the way back firing into cabin sealed off like your setup is not work well? I know I must test myself but just curious. Why must I have the trunk open?

 
scoot the subs all the way back to the cabin still firing towards the trunk with seats down? My car sounds like sh*t unless I have the seats down.
Would all the way back firing into cabin sealed off like your setup is not work well? I know I must test myself but just curious. Why must I have the trunk open?
firing forward on both of these. firing in the cabin all the way back wouldnt do much. its like a wall. the closer it is the better.

the trunk must be open on the subs all the way forward facing forward so you do not get cancelation from the rear waves since it will not be sealed.

 
I'm impressed mine does so well just on stock alt, (Interstate bat (nothing special)) knu 4 gauge cca, and big three in 1/0 audiotechnix wire.

A bat in the rear would probably make me sh*t myself over the power of this el-cheapo amp.

 
ps, it is a bad idea to mix battery types (AGM/flooded cell). They charge differently. Ideally, you would use the exact same batteries front and rear....but at the very least, make sure they are of the same type - AGM DEEP CYCLE...Yellow Top for best results up front, not the blues or reds....even Optima explicitly states this.

 
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