another big 3 question

if i used a good bench vice (capable of bending parts for mud trucks aka the tow hooks) would that be good enough to hold it down? also, i would use heat shrink for the insulation if I got rings without insulation. Would that be a good reliable connection? or is there a different way I should take. I have tried soldering with 4 gague OFC wire, and it DOES NOT WORK FOR ME for some reason. I just cant melt the solder in.
Forget the vice, I'm telling you, spend the $7 on that swedge on tool and you'll save a TON of time and effort. Using that thing I can crimp 1/0 lugs in a matter of seconds. You just stick the wire in the terminal, put the terminal in the tool and smack it with a sledge hammer...This is what it looks like:

04040.gif


 
i am using knu cca and its easy as can be to work with.
The problem is once you strip it you can really only terminate it once. If you use it for an amplifier and have to remove/reinstall the cable more than once the stripped strands end up fraying out and it becomes a PITA. I still like it because it's a great bang for your buck cable but I just don't like installing it...

 
Well the first part of your statement is correct but then you went ahead and put your foot in your mouth by claiming CCA is "unreliable." That CCA is rated for 250A and the OFC is 300A, that's it. From an electrical standpoint it's no less "reliable" than the OFC and I can guarantee the OP won't be able to tell the difference once it's installed.
To the OP: The CCA can be a bit harder to work with but if money is tight it will work just fine for your application. KnuKonceptz also sells set screw ring terminals but a word of warning, if you use those under the hood they WILL corrode and they are damn expensive. I would suggest using the money to buy some decent crimp terminals, a swedge on ($7 from weldingsupply.com), a heat gun ($10 from Harbor Freight), and some heatshrink ($2 Harbor Freight). If you take the time to crimp and shrink them you will NEVER have to worry about the cable coming loose or water getting in there, much better option IMO.
I guess I worded that wrong. What I meant was, the big 3 handles a lot of the "heavy lifting" in the system and, when doing big upgrades, needs to be up to par. Not that either CCA or OFC are more reliable than the other, it is better (at least in my eyes) to have some headroom and use OFC then be pushing the wire to it's limits and use CCA. The big 3 in my car only needed like 5ft max so it's not like you'll be breaking the bank by spending the extra for OFC

 
My buddy's GTO is like that. I'm thinking we're going to have to replace all the wiring in there to do it right. You might have to do the same. I'm doing it in my car. Most people say when you do the big 3 to just run it along with your factory wiring. If you do it right, you don't need your factory wiring anymore. Essentially, when you do the big 3 and leave your factory wiring in, it's not even used. Current will take the path with the least resistance which will be the larger gauge wiring. As long as you trust your terminations, you're good to pull the factory wiring and only use the aftermarket wiring for your car's charging system. That'll let you use whatever battery terminals you want to use.
No, no, and no, I cannot emphasize how wrong this is. Current DOES NOT take the path of least resistance, that's the biggest myth I've ever heard. Current disperses itself over all conductors according to their resistance. So if you leave your stock wiring in there IT WILL BENEFIT the electrical system by carrying some of the current. I don't like to use examples like this because I believe it's kind of insulting to the reader but if you want one just think of the current as water and the wire as pipe, the 1/0 would be a large diameter pipe and the stock would be smaller. Obviously the large pipe is going to take most of the load but that doesn't mean the smaller is just going to sit there and do nothing, it takes a proportionate amount based on it's size (resistance).

Unless your absolutely sure you know where the stock wiring goes I would not remove it. You may end up cutting power to a component and causing your car to not function anymore (yes I've seen it happen with other members on here)

 
I guess I worded that wrong. What I meant was, the big 3 handles a lot of the "heavy lifting" in the system and, when doing big upgrades, needs to be up to par. Not that either CCA or OFC are more reliable than the other, it is better (at least in my eyes) to have some headroom and use OFC then be pushing the wire to it's limits and use CCA. The big 3 in my car only needed like 5ft max so it's not like you'll be breaking the bank by spending the extra for OFC
You think the OP's system is going to get anywhere near 250A? Hell I run a 230A DC Power alt and I rather doubt I would even hit that level, besides with such short lengths the wire will handle much more current than that in short bursts. CCA and OFC will perform exactly the same for 95% of the installations performed by the userbase here. The other 5% are running large enough systems they should have the knowledge to not ask if they need OFC or not.

 
this is my battery terminal. I dont really know any way to make this fit with a aftermarket battery terminal? any ideas?

View image: 2011 05 09 13 55 08 577

I am trying to get the best i can, i have a 140 amp alt, and i think it will be fine, im just trying to up from the tiny wire that came factory, so i can actually stay above 12.5v.

 
The problem is once you strip it you can really only terminate it once. If you use it for an amplifier and have to remove/reinstall the cable more than once the stripped strands end up fraying out and it becomes a PITA. I still like it because it's a great bang for your buck cable but I just don't like installing it...
this is true to an extent. i have crimped it where i didnt do it strong enough and easily twisted it into another terminal/lug. now on the other hand i agree with you about it being a pita to mess with with amps and stuff. i hate how it doesnt fit snug like it should. neither brands of 1/0 i use for power or ground will fit like it should in my amp.

 
this is my battery terminal. I dont really know any way to make this fit with a aftermarket battery terminal? any ideas?
View image: 2011 05 09 13 55 08 577

I am trying to get the best i can, i have a 140 amp alt, and i think it will be fine, im just trying to up from the tiny wire that came factory, so i can actually stay above 12.5v.
Well you have a couple options. Either you can use your stock battery terminals and just add the aftermarket wire to one of the 2 bolts. Or you if those stock wires at the bottom are long enough, cut them and crimp new terminals on them (or put them in a set screw battery terminal) but I'd wager those cables have 0 slack in them. If you don't like (or can't do) either of those well you'll have to get a little creative. They make double ended set screw terminals for joining two pieces of wire so you could lengthen those cables or maybe even just ring terminals bolted together using a nut & bolt but that wouldn't be optimal (kind of sloppy looking IMO).

 
What about the possibility of running a 4 or 0 gauge wire off of the terminal, having a large fuse block about 6 inches off the battery, and have the other end of that fuse block go to the factory wire? how would that work out?

 
What about the possibility of running a 4 or 0 gauge wire off of the terminal, having a large fuse block about 6 inches off the battery, and have the other end of that fuse block go to the factory wire? how would that work out?
Also an option, just make sure you have room to mount everything and decide beforehand whether or not you want it to look really clean (it makes a difference on your options)

 
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