Amps that does .5 ohms

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I feed my BC properly and it didnt last to long. Now it just sits there and smells bad

 

[disturbed471985 5,000+ posts]

I feed my BC properly and it didnt last to long. Now it just sits there and smells bad

Ever call in for warranty?? I know for a fact an aq2200 can run .5 daily as I did to mine for many months. Low voltage will fry them but I keep mine above 13.4v and never had a single issue.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

They wont warrenty below 1ohm. im going to have them rebuild it and sell it. They do rebuild alot cheaper the DB-r

 

[cyn 10+ year member]

Ya. Im just going with the one sub in the daily now.. got an older model ext. Cab s10. Going to try 4-6 15"s in it thinking about the skars again or some DD

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Let's pretend that the MMATS amps you speak of are pretty good. Will they last as long as long running .5ohm as they would 2ohm? No. Will they produce more distortion at .5ohm than 2ohm? Yes. Will they be noisy? Most D-class sub amps are very. Are the crossovers & DSP contained in HU's any good? Hardly.
The JL HD line does not have an amp that is .5ohm stable nor capable of 2kW. In addition, they're not exactly within the budget of the OP now are they? (under $300)

Since that line of amplifiers are not .5ohm stable, my statement is still valid. I've never come across a .5ohm stable amp that sounded any good, had good processing, or was reliable. In 10 years time you won't see too many of these things selling in the used market like you normally see with old school amps. Running at those kinds of current levels put an immense strain on the amplifier's power supply as few take the steps necessary to supply it with stable voltage and they suffocate themselves. And playing music at those low impedances is dangerous as a speaker's impedance can 1/2 itself. So while those big power D-Class SPL amps may warm up a 1/2 ohm resistor nicely, the game changes when you hook it up to a speaker.

For SPL burps & whatnot, those amps are fine. For everything else, there are better options...like those JL HD's you mentioned.

But 2kW for $300 new? That amp, without question, will be a POS.

Sort of agree with this.

OP, you'll want 2X additional batteries if you want to run any of those 2K amps @ .5 ohm. Someone on here had a Kicker 2500.1 for 300$ on here a week ago. Older versions of that do max power at 2 ohm. Audiopipe 3K does max power at 2 ohm and you can always keep it gained down (will fit your budget anyway)

 

[basscort2009 5,000+ posts]

cadence zrs-8000. its a nice 1500-3k amp depending on if u run it at 1 ohm or .25 ohms. either way it will play daily. now for under 300 you wont find a nice .5 stable amp thats very reliable or has a good rep

 

[cyn 10+ year member]

Ya i was looking at some of the ones posting. But im going hardcore on my project truck

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

I'd recommend a Crescendo amp for .5 stability. But finding an amp you can run reliable at .5 with a sub $300 budget? Not gonna happen. You'd be much better off finding something doing that power at 2ohms.

 

[cyn 10+ year member]

Ya was mainly looking used then seen wasnt happening...my budget for the project truck is alot more than my daily. Somewhere around 5k

 

[The_Grimy_One 10+ year member]

Let's pretend that the MMATS amps you speak of are pretty good. Will they last as long as long running .5ohm as they would 2ohm? No. Will they produce more distortion at .5ohm than 2ohm? Yes. Will they be noisy? Most D-class sub amps are very. Are the crossovers & DSP contained in HU's any good? Hardly.
The JL HD line does not have an amp that is .5ohm stable nor capable of 2kW. In addition, they're not exactly within the budget of the OP now are they? (under $300)

Since that line of amplifiers are not .5ohm stable, my statement is still valid. I've never come across a .5ohm stable amp that sounded any good, had good processing, or was reliable. In 10 years time you won't see too many of these things selling in the used market like you normally see with old school amps. Running at those kinds of current levels put an immense strain on the amplifier's power supply as few take the steps necessary to supply it with stable voltage and they suffocate themselves. And playing music at those low impedances is dangerous as a speaker's impedance can 1/2 itself. So while those big power D-Class SPL amps may warm up a 1/2 ohm resistor nicely, the game changes when you hook it up to a speaker.

For SPL burps & whatnot, those amps are fine. For everything else, there are better options...like those JL HD's you mentioned.

But 2kW for $300 new? That amp, without question, will be a POS.

Haha, you must not know much about amps... If you would have read what I told you, the MMATS run fine at .5 ALL DAY, and dont need a ton of electrical. I bought mine for $300. Will do a clean 1800 @ .5 ohms and do it very efficient. The amp is made to run at .5 ohms. Now I can agree on amps that are not rated at .5 ohms and people running below it, thats a whole diff ball game. But you are basically saying that all amps rated at 1 ohms will not sound good and will die when ran at 1 ohm. Well schit, any amp will die! Haha. Its funny, though, how all kinds of high end brands have 1 ohm stable amps... Hmmmm.

 

[memphisgods]

There are no good 1/2 ohm stable amps.

A good amp, to me anyway, will have no noise, good onboard processing, and be reliable. Big watt D-Class subs amps are generally pretty noisy, have awful onboard processing, and no amp can be considered reliable when tasked with powering close to a dead short. I don't like 'em.

The question I have is why are you looking for a 2kW amp? You'd be really shocked what a good 5-800w amp can do compared to a lesser quality amp that has a higher power rating. Don't get too caught up in the numbers game as adding more power usually causes more problems than it solves...not to mention added expenses.

What subwoofer do you have and what kind of vehicle will this be installed into? You're much better off building a system around a particular amp or the vehicle than trying to make a certain sub work in your application as cheaply as possible. I say this b/c a good amp will flatter so-so speakers & subwoofers. A lower end amp can make really nice speakers & subwoofers sound like garbage.

Today and for many years now you can get the MMATS amps at half a ohm stable. They are amazing but your going to pay for it big time. They are not cheap but they are quality.

 

[Firewalker]

@Popwarhomie

 

[memphisgods]

Sort of agree with this.

OP, you'll want 2X additional batteries if you want to run any of those 2K amps @ .5 ohm. Someone on here had a Kicker 2500.1 for 300$ on here a week ago. Older versions of that do max power at 2 ohm. Audiopipe 3K does max power at 2 ohm and you can always keep it gained down (will fit your budget anyway)

When the amp is stable at a certain resistance then they absolutely should run the same as anything else for long periods of time. MMATS amps are proven in the sub world that is why they cost $1 per watt generally. Sadly most people that have not played with car audio for years don't know how to wire subwoofers properly in general so if they do damage or get down to .25 ohms accidently there will be some issues. As long as you keep the subs wired properly and have proper stable power then you will have long lasting quality amplifiers.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

Today and for many years now you can get the MMATS amps at half a ohm stable. They are amazing but your going to pay for it big time. They are not cheap but they are quality.

Why the hell would you bump an 11year old thread?

3 post you have 3 post on this site your opinion on mmats isn't worth anything.

For that matter I'm sure 90% of people who are active on here daily know mmat fairly well and know exactly how to wire speakers to reach certain impedance

 

[Ken kong]

There are no good 1/2 ohm stable amps.

A good amp, to me anyway, will have no noise, good onboard processing, and be reliable. Big watt D-Class subs amps are generally pretty noisy, have awful onboard processing, and no amp can be considered reliable when tasked with powering close to a dead short. I don't like 'em.

The question I have is why are you looking for a 2kW amp? You'd be really shocked what a good 5-800w amp can do compared to a lesser quality amp that has a higher power rating. Don't get too caught up in the numbers game as adding more power usually causes more problems than it solves...not to mention added expenses.

What subwoofer do you have and what kind of vehicle will this be installed into? You're much better off building a system around a particular amp or the vehicle than trying to make a certain sub work in your application as cheaply as possible. I say this b/c a good amp will flatter so-so speakers & subwoofers. A lower end amp can make really nice speakers & subwoofers sound like garbage.

My how things have changed