A good amp, to me anyway, will have no noise, good onboard processing, and be reliable. Big watt D-Class subs amps are generally pretty noisy, have awful onboard processing, and no amp can be considered reliable when tasked with powering close to a dead short. I don't like 'em.
The question I have is why are you looking for a 2kW amp? You'd be really shocked what a good 5-800w amp can do compared to a lesser quality amp that has a higher power rating. Don't get too caught up in the numbers game as adding more power usually causes more problems than it solves...not to mention added expenses.
What subwoofer do you have and what kind of vehicle will this be installed into? You're much better off building a system around a particular amp or the vehicle than trying to make a certain sub work in your application as cheaply as possible. I say this b/c a good amp will flatter so-so speakers & subwoofers. A lower end amp can make really nice speakers & subwoofers sound like garbage.
There are no good 1/2 ohm stable amps.
A good amp, to me anyway, will have no noise, good onboard processing, and be reliable. Big watt D-Class subs amps are generally pretty noisy, have awful onboard processing, and no amp can be considered reliable when tasked with powering close to a dead short. I don't like 'em.
The question I have is why are you looking for a 2kW amp? You'd be really shocked what a good 5-800w amp can do compared to a lesser quality amp that has a higher power rating. Don't get too caught up in the numbers game as adding more power usually causes more problems than it solves...not to mention added expenses.
What subwoofer do you have and what kind of vehicle will this be installed into? You're much better off building a system around a particular amp or the vehicle than trying to make a certain sub work in your application as cheaply as possible. I say this b/c a good amp will flatter so-so speakers & subwoofers. A lower end amp can make really nice speakers & subwoofers sound like garbage.
I couldnt DISAGREE with this more... MMATS makes mono blocks that are .5 stable, such as the 2000.05, the 3000.05, and the 3500.05. Some of the best mono blocks made. On-board processing is only necessary if you do not have an external crossover/EQ or a good deck. A lot of Class D amps sound close to if not as good as old school A/B amps. Ask anyone who uses the JL HD line...
Yeah lol I couldn't dissagree more either....plenty of good .5ohm stable amps...they wouldn't be rated for .5ohms if they weren't made to handle it. And like above mentioned onboard processing does not happen get a good HU. I've powered 6 subs each at a .3333333_ ohm load on my amp and it has had no problems...sounds good, stays somewhat cool still.
I couldnt DISAGREE with this more... MMATS makes mono blocks that are .5 stable, such as the 2000.05, the 3000.05, and the 3500.05. Some of the best mono blocks made. On-board processing is only necessary if you do not have an external crossover/EQ or a good deck. A lot of Class D amps sound close to if not as good as old school A/B amps. Ask anyone who uses the JL HD line...
Let's pretend that the MMATS amps you speak of are pretty good. Will they last as long as long running .5ohm as they would 2ohm? No. Will they produce more distortion at .5ohm than 2ohm? Yes. Will they be noisy? Most D-class sub amps are very. Are the crossovers & DSP contained in HU's any good? Hardly.
The JL HD line does not have an amp that is .5ohm stable nor capable of 2kW. In addition, they're not exactly within the budget of the OP now are they? (under $300)
Since that line of amplifiers are not .5ohm stable, my statement is still valid. I've never come across a .5ohm stable amp that sounded any good, had good processing, or was reliable. In 10 years time you won't see too many of these things selling in the used market like you normally see with old school amps. Running at those kinds of current levels put an immense strain on the amplifier's power supply as few take the steps necessary to supply it with stable voltage and they suffocate themselves. And playing music at those low impedances is dangerous as a speaker's impedance can 1/2 itself. So while those big power D-Class SPL amps may warm up a 1/2 ohm resistor nicely, the game changes when you hook it up to a speaker.
For SPL burps & whatnot, those amps are fine. For everything else, there are better options...like those JL HD's you mentioned.
But 2kW for $300 new? That amp, without question, will be a POS.