Amplifier -- Sub -- PSU -- Speakers

varano_ohms

CarAudio.com Recruit
Jan 20, 2019
26
0
Hi,

do you connect the amplifier to the 2 jacks (RED-WHITE) behind the radio and the sub do you connect it to the amplifier?

having a 250w psu is enough for sub amplifier and a 2x 60w speakers?

car radio aiwa 40Wx4

Thanks

Regards

 

youdoofus

Skibidi
Dec 13, 2014
3,816
193
Hi,

do you connect the amplifier to the 2 jacks (RED-WHITE) behind the radio and the sub do you connect it to the amplifier?

having a 250w psu is enough for sub amplifier and a 2x 60w speakers?

car radio aiwa 40Wx4

Thanks

Regards
so, you have a computer PSU youre using to connect to car audio stuff that you want to use in your home, right?

 
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Reactions: varano_ohms

varano_ohms

CarAudio.com Recruit
Jan 20, 2019
26
0
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #3
so, you have a computer PSU youre using to connect to car audio stuff that you want to use in your home, right?
yes, i have already connected the radio to psu 250W with a 60W speaker front right

 

youdoofus

Skibidi
Dec 13, 2014
3,816
193
yes, i have already connected the radio to psu 250W with a 60W speaker front right
first thing you need to know is that you need to get away from the watt ratings of a psu if youre using it outside of its intended purpose. Computer PSUs output voltage and amperage. Typically all PSUs will output 3.3, 5 and 12 volts. You want to ignore the 3.3 and 5 volt wires. The 12 volt wires are usually coming from a singular transformer, just split into multiple wires so that the molex plugs they connect to can evenly distribute the power where it needs to go. You arent using it for that anymore, so youre best off just cutting the molex off and summing them on something metal and insulated as to avoid sparks etc, but still get the full amperage you can from the PSU. If you dont do this, youll run the risk of trying to pull too much current thru tiny ass wires and thereby heating them past the point where their shielding is designed to protect them at, it melting or burning, then FOOM, fire...

Anyways, the deck needs +12v and gnd(which can also be obtained from the PSU) so does the amp. The deck will have a "constant" and a "switched" for +12v, and unless you plan on leaving the psu on at all times (HORRIBLE IDEA) youre going to run into the need of resetting your bass/treble etc etc if theyre digitally controlled inside the deck or find some alternate source of a tiny amount of +12v and a ground to maintain the internal memory on the deck and use the PSU for its main power.

the red and whites youre talking about are rca's for audio out from the deck to the amp. and yes, you then connect the sub to the amp. anyways, are you sure you understand the risks of playing with 12 volts in a home situation? Its a great idea on finding a way to burn everything you own to the ground if youre not taking precautions. If youre just cannibalizing a dead desktop pc to run some old car audio stuff in your house instead of spending a little bit of cash on a plate amp or a used PA amp, you had better know what youre doing man. It doesnt sound like you do since youre trying to use a 250 watt psu on a deck AND an amp. I use a 450 watt psu for testing car stuff just to see if it powers up and if itll play music at all, difference is that my 450 watt psu has been properly converted and i know how many amperes it outputs vs the drap on the stuff im hooking up is

 

varano_ohms

CarAudio.com Recruit
Jan 20, 2019
26
0
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #5
thank you
however I'm not going to connect amplifier and sub for now because I imagine 250W are few.
it would take at least 500W. correct?
(omitting for a moment amperage and voltage)

"you are therefore better by cutting the molex and adding them on something metallic and isolated to avoid sparks, etc.,"

you could send me a picture and kindly tell me how to do and which wires to cut
the 12V I took from the largest molex (24 pins), the other molex are free are not connected to the ground.
until now using the low volume radio there have been no sparks or problems


 
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youdoofus

Skibidi
Dec 13, 2014
3,816
193
thank you
however I'm not going to connect amplifier and sub for now because I imagine 250W are few.
it would take at least 500W. correct?
(omitting for a moment amperage and voltage)

"you are therefore better by cutting the molex and adding them on something metallic and isolated to avoid sparks, etc.,"

you could send me a picture and kindly tell me how to do and which wires to cut
the 12V I took from the largest molex (24 pins), the other molex are free are not connected to the ground.
until now using the low volume radio there have been no sparks or problems
decks will only pull about 10 amperes even at full tilt, hence why they are fused that way. The yellow ones are usually +12v and the black ones ground. Blue and red are usually 3.3 and 5 respectively. A cheap DMM will help you with determining which are which beyond the color coding i provided Get a fuse container and sum them all up on the post in it, find out what amperage the psu can put out and fuse to a hair below that. E.g. if it says itll put out 4 amps, fuse it to 35. The 500 watt psu should put out around 70 or so, but the diagram on the bottom of the unit should tell you what kind of power it is capable of.

The big molex is the only one that has any +12v at all or any worth giving a f*ck about. but seriously, get a plank of wood, or something not metallic to mount the PSU, the fuse bock and a ground coupling block to in avoidance of any variables that could cause you issues

 

varano_ohms

CarAudio.com Recruit
Jan 20, 2019
26
0
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #7
Hi,
from the PSU I only used the yellow and black cable (from the 24 pin molex I did not get them because the yellow and black cable are present)
I can not remember if it's + 12V1DC-8A or + 12V2DC-14A

the fuses are:     15A yellow radio cable
                           0.5A blue radio cable
I connected green (molex 24 pin) + black to a switch to turn on the PSU

I isolated the orange and blue cables from the radio

molex 4 pin (2 yellow + 2 black) is not used

I cut and isolate the sata cables.

psu is leaned on the wood momentarily and the cables are insulated and free
so what should I do?

radio cables :     

-yellow  _+12V

-black  _ground

-red     _switch

-orange _illumination

-blue _antenna remote

fuse.jpg

psu fsp.jpg

wiring.jpg

molex.jpg

 
Last edited by a moderator:

youdoofus

Skibidi
Dec 13, 2014
3,816
193
psu is leaned on the wood momentarily and the cables are insulated and free
so what should I do?

radio cables :     

-yellow  _+12V

-black  _ground

-red     _switch

-orange _illumination

-blue _antenna remote
on the radio, ditch the orange and blue. cut them and cap them. red and yellow together to the +12v (black and yellow) and black to black.

That psu will be enough for the deck, but not also an amp. Period

 

varano_ohms

CarAudio.com Recruit
Jan 20, 2019
26
0
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #9
the cable connections are already made as you can see from the photos and the cables already cut and insulated.
I would like to know now what I should do to secure everything.
and what is the sufficient power required to put an amplifier and a sub + 2 speakers

there are 2 lines at 12v with different amperage (+ 12V1DC-8A or + 12V2DC-14A)
where is it better to connect the radio by choosing between the two?

how I identify the two 12V lines since the yellow cable is 12V and the black one is the ground

 
Last edited by a moderator:

youdoofus

Skibidi
Dec 13, 2014
3,816
193
the cable connections are already made as you can see from the photos and the cables already cut and insulated.
I would like to know now what I should do to secure everything.
and what is the sufficient power required to put an amplifier and a sub + 2 speakers

there are 2 lines at 12v with different amperage (+ 12V1DC-8A or + 12V2DC-14A)
where is it better to connect the radio by choosing between the two?

how I identify the two 12V lines since the yellow cable is 12V and the black one is the ground
it says on the sticker that the yellow is the 8 amp and the yeloow/black is the 14 amp. just sum them on a copper binding post

 

varano_ohms

CarAudio.com Recruit
Jan 20, 2019
26
0
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #11
there are no yellow / black wires
there are only yellow wires
I got a yellow one like + 12v and a black one that is the ground
at this point I do not know what are at 8A and 14A
how to distinguish them?

i dont understand this: "just sum them on a copper binding post" 

and
what is the sufficient power required to put an amplifier and a sub + 2 speakers?( this is my first question)

 

youdoofus

Skibidi
Dec 13, 2014
3,816
193
there are no yellow / black wires
there are only yellow wires
I got a yellow one like + 12v and a black one that is the ground
at this point I do not know what are at 8A and 14A
how to distinguish them?

i dont understand this: "just sum them on a copper binding post" 

and
what is the sufficient power required to put an amplifier and a sub + 2 speakers?( this is my first question)
it shows yellow as 8 amp and yellow\blk as 14 amp

summing them just means to put them together, you theoretically should get 22 amperes from doing this. Youre going to want to have a pretty short lead from the PSU and get a thicker wire from there to avoid the wire heating up.

zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz thing.jpg

 

varano_ohms

CarAudio.com Recruit
Jan 20, 2019
26
0
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #13
then I took the yellow cable and a black one separately this means I have 14A flowing?
(I have not connected them together)

 
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varano_ohms

CarAudio.com Recruit
Jan 20, 2019
26
0
  • Thread Starter Thread Starter
  • #15
no, the yellow one does 8 amps and the yellow one with the black stripe does 14 amps.
There are no yellow cables with the black stripe and I've said it several times
and even the images speak for themselves

 

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