Amplifier Grounding

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

oh and 0gauge wire isnt necessary for this amp but is recommended for when you upgrade later like we all do

 

[Cruzer 10+ year member]

and the sh!tty thing is that they have a few thousand post and are the ones giving the wrong advice, they should take the time out to learn wtf they are talking about, thats why so many very good members leave or dont post much..

90% of people here are worried about what others post.

i get bashed daily for any advice i give, regardless of if its right or wrong. just like chemmins did

 

[CHEMMINS 10+ year member]

I love getting bashed by fawking idiots.

I guess all them guys running in the lanes are doing it wrong, and they should be grounding to the frame, not their buss bars then......jeeze you guys may gain them 10 more db with the massive revelation.

On a more serious note to all those who think the frame is best......pull your fawking head out of your azz and do some research.

 

[350zspl 10+ year member]

imo carefully take the shortest path thru the trunk floor grommet hole do not hit gas tank to frame

 

[kickerfan73]

Use existing bolt or even drill a hole in a place that won't damage any fuel tanks, hoses, wires, leak water, or create a hole in a fender. I hope I covered all the places...any way the most important thing to do is sand the place you want to contact the ground wire to. If your using a capacitor. The ground should be close as possible to the Cap and all other grounds close to each unit. This applies to any added electronics. A good solid ground might even be more important then a lose or badly connected power cable.

 

[winkychevelle 10+ year member]

wow the question was answered correctly like five times:

either close to the amp to bare metal/frame(good)

or a solid run to the battery neg in 4gauge or better(best) 0gauge since you really should match the + run

 

[phemps 10+ year member]

You do realize that he asked about a ground right? You should NEVER run a ground from the battery to the trunk. Always make your ground wire as short as possible.

bahahah lolz

 

[CHEMMINS 10+ year member]

This thread is full of phail

 

[helotaxi 5,000+ posts]

This thread is full of CA.com

The negative post of the battery is the definition of "ground" in a car. It is the point of zero potential when the car is not running. When the car is running, the case of the alternator is the reference. The alt case and the battery negative post should be connected by a large conductive path, usually consisting of the engine block and the battery "ground strap."

The car electrical system works because everything is wired back to the battery. Since the battery negative post is connected to the chassis and the engine block/alternator, anything with its negative wired to the chassis is connected to the battery negative. In effect the chassis acts like a giant buss bar on the negative side.

Back in the day when amps were low powered and cars were actually made with significant amounts of metal, running a short ground to the chassis was the most efficient way to go about wiring. As amps got bigger and the amount of metal in the car got lower, it really has become less and less the optimal way to do things. If you ground to the chassis, you don't know how good the connection to the battery is. I look at it this way, if I care enough to run 1/0 for the positive, why would I leave the other side to chance? Run another 1/0 and remove all doubt as to the quality of the negative connection.

 

[subzero 5,000+ posts]

This thread is full of CA.com
The negative post of the battery is the definition of "ground" in a car. It is the point of zero potential when the car is not running. When the car is running, the case of the alternator is the reference. The alt case and the battery negative post should be connected by a large conductive path, usually consisting of the engine block and the battery "ground strap."

The car electrical system works because everything is wired back to the battery. Since the battery negative post is connected to the chassis and the engine block/alternator, anything with its negative wired to the chassis is connected to the battery negative. In effect the chassis acts like a giant buss bar on the negative side.

Back in the day when amps were low powered and cars were actually made with significant amounts of metal, running a short ground to the chassis was the most efficient way to go about wiring. As amps got bigger and the amount of metal in the car got lower, it really has become less and less the optimal way to do things. If you ground to the chassis, you don't know how good the connection to the battery is. I look at it this way, if I care enough to run 1/0 for the positive, why would I leave the other side to chance? Run another 1/0 and remove all doubt as to the quality of the negative connection.

I dit dun dat... Works great and I pull about 2.5kwatts daily... no dimming, no whine, no pop,

 

[LopezBros13]

Okay, thank's fella's, i think i got the idea, again Thanxx!

 

[Boomsday 10+ year member]

This thread is full of CA.com
The negative post of the battery is the definition of "ground" in a car. It is the point of zero potential when the car is not running. When the car is running, the case of the alternator is the reference. The alt case and the battery negative post should be connected by a large conductive path, usually consisting of the engine block and the battery "ground strap."

The car electrical system works because everything is wired back to the battery. Since the battery negative post is connected to the chassis and the engine block/alternator, anything with its negative wired to the chassis is connected to the battery negative. In effect the chassis acts like a giant buss bar on the negative side.

Back in the day when amps were low powered and cars were actually made with significant amounts of metal, running a short ground to the chassis was the most efficient way to go about wiring. As amps got bigger and the amount of metal in the car got lower, it really has become less and less the optimal way to do things. If you ground to the chassis, you don't know how good the connection to the battery is. I look at it this way, if I care enough to run 1/0 for the positive, why would I leave the other side to chance? Run another 1/0 and remove all doubt as to the quality of the negative connection.

^^Yep, I learned alot from reading your posts back in the day.lol

 

[dumple 5,000+ posts]

i ground to the battery but its in the trunk and 3 feet from the amplifier am i fail or winz?

 

[truckramrod 10+ year member]

and the sh!tty thing is that they have a few thousand post and are the ones giving the wrong advice, they should take the time out to learn wtf they are talking about, thats why so many very good members leave or dont post much..

I agree totally...

I find the same problem on this site.

 

[FenixAudio 10+ year member]

how come when someone has a different opinion is has to be wrong. i thought the actual point of a fourm is to find out what others think. not every thread fails becasue sometimes there is more then one way to do something correctly.