Amp Recommendations

[JustCallMeCush]

I recently purchased a .5/2 ohm 18 inch HDC418 from soundqubed because of the amazing reviews and overall decent price. The sub peaks at 6000W and has a 4500 watt RMS. I am thinking about getting the SoundStream Tarantula to push it, its 6000W peak also. Would that work? I will also soon be needing advice on building the box and porting it correctly. Also, how do I safely wire it to .5 ohms? I'm not exactly a noob to car audio, but I am definitely a noob to anything below 2 ohms. I appreciate the help

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[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I recently purchased a .5/2 ohm 18 inch HDC418 from soundqubed because of the amazing reviews and overall decent price. The sub peaks at 6000W and has a 4500 watt RMS. I am thinking about getting the SoundStream Tarantula to push it, its 6000W peak also. Would that work? I will also soon be needing advice on building the box and porting it correctly. Also, how do I safely wire it to .5 ohms? I'm not exactly a noob to car audio, but I am definitely a noob to anything below 2 ohms. I appreciate the help

if you are still going by peak watts, you are still a big noob buddy, sorry to burst your bubble. Peak watts is completely and utterly useless marketing tactics. You only look at RMS wattage which is real world watts. Before doing any of this, you would need a high output alternator about 270 amps or higher(NO EBAY ALTS ALLOWED. Only reputable alt brands like singer, mechman, excessive amperage, DC power, ohio generator) and a good AGM battery under the hood along with the big 3 upgrade. That would work however, Adding an additional AGM battery in the back by the amps along with all of that would be optimal though.

You'd want a better quality amp than that soundstream. For amps, Look at anything from

Amps - SHOP BY BRAND - Page 1 - SSA STORE

and

https://www.droppinhzcaraudio.com/products/category/amplifiers

and

https://xplicitaudio.com/product-category/car-audio-video/amps/monoblock/

Any of the 3.5k RMS amps in there would be good and miles better than that soundstream cr@p. As in way louder, way more efficient, WAY more durable and reliable. Because they are built like tanks and made in korea, not china. They dont list 1 ohm ratings but they all can be ran at half or even quarter ohm just fine as long as you are doing it right. Some Even burp wired at .0625 ohms Not to mention the bass will sound much cleaner and fuller vs that cheap chinese crap circuitry.

Download torres box calculator http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/38791-torres-box-tuning-calculator-updated-818/

Follow this guide.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/187809-hdc3-hdc4-optimum-enclosure-size/

Enter in your dimensions, your 18" displacement should be .26 Then just play with the port until you get the port area per foot at around 17 and the box tuning you want and 5.5 cubic feet NET(make sure its NET not gross)

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

IMO if you have to come here and ask you have no business attempting to run .5 ohm, and you'll certainly regret buying Soundstream.

If it were me I'd look into the Stetsom 4K2D amp (2 ohm version). I used one for a while and really loved it. If I could have found another I'd likely have never sold it.

 

[JustCallMeCush]

Okay thank you. And don't get me wrong- I know peak is what it could put out at one given second, and will not run on that or push near that often, and in subs its just what it could handle in a short burst. Obviously I was wrong about the soundstream, thank you for pointing that out. I read some good reviews online is why that was my ideal amp. So how exactly would I wire it to .5 ohm vs 2 ohm? And I wouldnt be able to put in another battery, but my current battery is huge, as my truck has some pretty electrical heavy mods, I decided to purchase a pretty big battery after I bought the truck.

 

[JustCallMeCush]

Hispls thats exactly why I want to wire and run at .5 ohms. I will have to learn one way or another. I am aware that there are many factors I should look out for and be careful about, but I appreciate the warning. After wiring this sub in, I'll easily have the most powerful sub in my town. I am trying to learn to do this stuff better, but I have no one that has the knowledge to really get any information from.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Okay thank you. And don't get me wrong- I know peak is what it could put out at one given second, and will not run on that or push near that often, and in subs its just what it could handle in a short burst. Obviously I was wrong about the soundstream, thank you for pointing that out. I read some good reviews online is why that was my ideal amp. So how exactly would I wire it to .5 ohm vs 2 ohm? And I wouldnt be able to put in another battery, but my current battery is huge, as my truck has some pretty electrical heavy mods, I decided to purchase a pretty big battery after I bought the truck.

reviews arent everything. What wins competitions is everything. You got noobs that never experienced anything quality before giving that SS amp a 5 star rating and saying they do 160 dbs blowing out windshields. Or guys that are just happy to have a working amp. Its a budget amp, it will work, but your HDC4 18 will always feel lacking with that soundstream amp.

You are vastly underestimating the amount of electrical upgrades needed to run a true amp that can safely and fully supply proper power to your sub. Skimp out on the electrical and you'll fry your sub and amp. ESPECIALLY AT HALF OHM. What i listed was the BARE minimal if you dont have all of that, dont even bother trying. big battery doesnt mean much. A big quality AGM battery is mandatory. Half ohm draws are Extremely TAXING on the electrical system. IF you cant keep your voltage above 12, its bye bye amps and subs. Not to mention you get a lot less power out of your amp at 12 volts vs 14.8 volts.

 

[JustCallMeCush]

reviews arent everything. What wins competitions is everything. You got noobs that never experienced anything quality before giving that SS amp a 5 star rating and saying they do 160 dbs blowing out windshields. Or guys that are just happy to have a working amp. Its a budget amp, it will work, but your HDC4 18 will always feel lacking with that soundstream amp.

You are vastly underestimating the amount of electrical upgrades needed to run a true amp that can safely and fully supply proper power to your sub. Skimp out on the electrical and you'll fry your sub and amp. ESPECIALLY AT HALF OHM. What i listed was the BARE minimal if you dont have all of that, dont even bother trying. big battery doesnt mean much. A big quality AGM battery is mandatory. Half ohm draws are Extremely TAXING on the electrical system. IF you cant keep your voltage above 12, its bye bye amps and subs. Not to mention you get a lot less power out of your amp at 12 volts vs 14.8 volts.

Okay I gotcha. That makes more sense. So at half ohm I can completely fry both the amp and the sub if I have it wired incorrectly? Or are there other factors that could fry it? because with how my truck is set, I have no ability to put in another battery. I may be better off running at 2 ohms under these circumstances. I might could take it to the nearest audio shop, I just try my best to avoid him as i have heard some bad things. Ill definitely get one of the better amps you were talking about. And is there a way I could wire it to one ohm, and is that less risky?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Okay I gotcha. That makes more sense. So at half ohm I can completely fry both the amp and the sub if I have it wired incorrectly? Or are there other factors that could fry it? because with how my truck is set, I have no ability to put in another battery. I may be better off running at 2 ohms under these circumstances. I might could take it to the nearest audio shop, I just try my best to avoid him as i have heard some bad things. Ill definitely get one of the better amps you were talking about. And is there a way I could wire it to one ohm, and is that less risky?

I told you the main factor which is inadequate electrical system. Your car has a charging voltage which is around 12.8 resting and 14.8 volts with the car on. When your amps play they draw current, If your alt and battery cant supply that current, the amp starts heating up and clipping/distorting. Which is bad for both subs and amp. Wiring at half ohm is fine but you need a VERY strong electrical system. Hope that part is getting through to you. Yours does not sound anywhere near enough.

 

[JustCallMeCush]

No I understand what you're saying. Its just with the layout of my vehicle another battery isnt an option. I already have 2 W1s underneath my back seat, and I wont be able to remove the seat either, I need one of the three. I dont have to run at .5 by any means, I was just hoping I'd be able to. I appreciate the help. So is there a way I could supe up my electrical system without another battery to be strong enough to run it? Or would I just be better off overall at 2 ohms? And I heard the Hifonics Brutus would be a good choice if they have an amp thats high enough RMS. I need to go check that. If at all possible im trying to spend no more than $300 on the amp. Thats not looking too likely at this point

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

No I understand what you're saying. Its just with the layout of my vehicle another battery isnt an option. I already have 2 W1s underneath my back seat, and I wont be able to remove the seat either, I need one of the three. I dont have to run at .5 by any means, I was just hoping I'd be able to. I appreciate the help. So is there a way I could supe up my electrical system without another battery to be strong enough to run it? Or would I just be better off overall at 2 ohms? And I heard the Hifonics Brutus would be a good choice if they have an amp thats high enough RMS. I need to go check that. If at all possible im trying to spend no more than $300 on the amp. Thats not looking too likely at this point

If you read the other comment i made, A good AGM battery up front along with a 270 amp+ high output alternator and the big 3 upgrade is mostly all you need to run the setup. Why are you getting caught up on the 2nd battery since thats just the optional choice which would be optimal but still optional... You are reading and emphasizing the wrong things here buddy.

Stay away from hifonics, they are worst than soundstream. cheap chinese bullsh*t. I ran two brutus 2400s for years and when i swapped out for a DC audio 3.5k amp, massive difference. the supposed 4800 rms of the combined hifonics was only about 75% as loud as the 3.5k and the DC 3.5k hit low notes that I never heard before with the hifonics. Also my voltages looked better as well.

 

[JustCallMeCush]

If you read the other comment i made, A good AGM battery up front along with a 270 amp+ high output alternator and the big 3 upgrade is mostly all you need to run the setup. Why are you getting caught up on the 2nd battery since thats just the optional choice which would be optimal but still optional... You are reading and emphasizing the wrong things here buddy.
Stay away from hifonics, they are worst than soundstream. cheap chinese bullsh*t. I ran two brutus 2400s for years and when i swapped out for a DC audio 3.5k amp, massive difference. the supposed 4800 rms of the combined hifonics was only about 75% as loud as the 3.5k and the DC 3.5k hit low notes that I never heard before with the hifonics. Also my voltages looked better as well.

My bad, I was emphasizing the wrong things. So no hifonics and no soundstream, gotcha. I already have an upgraded alternator, so I doubt that id need an even bigger one. I may though. Is it possible I would get one sufficient for less than $300?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

My bad, I was emphasizing the wrong things. So no hifonics and no soundstream, gotcha. I already have an upgraded alternator, so I doubt that id need an even bigger one. I may though. Is it possible I would get one sufficient for less than $300?

well, if you have an upgraded alt, you can try it out to see if you need any upgrading first. Just ease into the gain and install a voltmeter in your dash thats connected to the power and ground outputs of the amplifier so you know your voltages. As long as you keep it above 12 volts, your amp should be happy and you should be clear to run half ohm. Most of whats on the market is chinese crap. Its cheap, looks affordable but it is what it is performance wise. If you had any other sub, i'd say go for the cheap budget chinese amps. However your sub requires quality power because whats the use of getting a good sub when you cant get the full potential out of it.

Look up what the big 3 upgrade is and perform that as well if you havent done so.

 

[JustCallMeCush]

Great, I really appreciate the advice here. So do you know of the cheapest quality amp I could get?

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Great, I really appreciate the advice here. So do you know of the cheapest quality amp I could get?

used 3.5k amps on the classifieds.

 

[JustCallMeCush]

used 3.5k amps on the classifieds.

Great. Thank you so much. Have an incredible day