Lets see your amp racks. I need some motivation.
I have a sheet of HDPE, but its so damn hard to work with. So I am thinking of building my amp rack out of 1/4" MDF.
1/4" MDF isn't worth using, IMO- it's not rigid enough and it's too easy to strip screw holes.
How is HDPE hard to work with? It's a mess, granted, but with a table saw, router, disc sander and jigsaw, you can do whatever you want. Just make sure your dust collection is good because you'll be wearing a lot of dust and little shards of this stuff and static electricity adds to the charm. It also holds screws really well if the torque from a battery powered driver isn't excessive.
I really like ABS and used it for more than 20 years when I did car audio full time. I would like to have had better access to info back then- I used CNA to join it and when that didn't work great, used a chisel tip on my Butane soldering iron to weld it together since actual plastic welders weren't easy to find and they were expensive.
Fast forward to early last year, when I needed to make a large panel for a yacht, to replace the thin fiberglass piece that had come off- I chose ABS and found out about using MEK to adhere it- best thing I have ever used. Because this piece was going to receive pressure from waves/wake, I added backing and used the MEK to chemically 'weld' it, followed by stainless bolts, washers and Nylock nuts.
For anyone who might want to use MEK- do it in a well ventilated space, brush it onto the pieces being joined and move fast because it evaporates very quickly.
Practice with small scraps and place the wetted piece (edge or face) on the other piece and slide them slightly, to make the joint work better. If the raw edge needs to look more finished, brushing MEK onto it will make it shiny and more smooth, but it should be sanded with fine paper for a better appearance.
Since ABS is easy to paint, it's a great material for these kinds of panels- HDPE doesn't take paint well as a permanent finish.