Amp is popping fuses... Tf.

[Wabatuckian]

How do I check speaker inpedance? And what am I looking for? And then I would imagine if the power was shorting to the chassis both amps would be having this problem.


I did turn it down about a an eighth turn. Still pops fuses at full volume though. Yeah running stock bat. Should I upgrade front bat to like a optima redtop and then get a yellowtop for the back? Think that will fix the issue?

Well I had the right fuse. Then they started blowing and I only had a 20amp. I have more 40amps now.

The main thing I don't get is why now? After almost a year..?

What has changed? Briefly. Get it all in one post.

The bottom line is that you're pulling more amperage than before.

Let's figure out where that current is going.

Unless you list something that's obvious (that I missed re-reading the posts) I'd pull the alternator and have it bench checked. AutoZone can do that for free.

The alternator puts out three-phase AC current. There is a rectifier and voltage regulator in the alternator that keeps it from toasting the batteries. Heck, Ford used to use an external regulator and they died somewhat regularly. I've seen batteries boil dry while lights glow bright and blow. One reason I never liked Fords. (The other reason is that Grandma wound coils for Delco-Remy and Dad is a retired GM engineer //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif )

In fact, if you'd like to isolate the alternator, just disconnect it from the battery and fire the system up. You should be OK with two batteries. Just don't run it longer or harder than necessary. I'd keep the car off, too.

If the alternator passes, send the amp off to be benched.

So... Changes?

Regards,

Josh

 

[CplCuddles]

What has changed? Briefly. Get it all in one post.
The bottom line is that you're pulling more amperage than before.

Let's figure out where that current is going.

Unless you list something that's obvious (that I missed re-reading the posts) I'd pull the alternator and have it bench checked. AutoZone can do that for free.

The alternator puts out three-phase AC current. There is a rectifier and voltage regulator in the alternator that keeps it from toasting the batteries. Heck, Ford used to use an external regulator and they died somewhat regularly. I've seen batteries boil dry while lights glow bright and blow. One reason I never liked Fords. (The other reason is that Grandma wound coils for Delco-Remy and Dad is a retired GM engineer //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif )

In fact, if you'd like to isolate the alternator, just disconnect it from the battery and fire the system up. You should be OK with two batteries. Just don't run it longer or harder than necessary. I'd keep the car off, too.

If the alternator passes, send the amp off to be benched.

So... Changes?

Regards,

Josh

Nothing has changed with the sub setup. When I switched the system from my taurus which like I said had much worse voltages low 11s even sometimes, to the Tahoe I added a sax 100.4 and door speakers. It ran like a champ for a few months then started doing this. Like I have said, the voltages are much better in the Tahoe which makes the voltage loss induced failure make so sense to me. The lowest I see are mid 12s.

 

[Wabatuckian]

Nothing has changed with the sub setup. When I switched the system from my taurus which like I said had much worse voltages low 11s even sometimes, to the Tahoe I added a sax 100.4 and door speakers. It ran like a champ for a few months then started doing this. Like I have said, the voltages are much better in the Tahoe which makes the voltage loss induced failure make so sense to me. The lowest I see are mid 12s.

Thank you. I'm usually doing this on my phone so it's hard to take separate posts as a whole.

Unhook the alternator, isolate it from the battery. Run the system off the battery briefly. What happens?

Regards,

Josh

 

[CplCuddles]

Thank you. I'm usually doing this on my phone so it's hard to take separate posts as a whole.
Unhook the alternator, isolate it from the battery. Run the system off the battery briefly. What happens?

Regards,

Josh

Should I run it on part power or full power? And for how long approx?

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Who did the install?

 

[CplCuddles]

Who did the install?

Me, haha.

 

[Wabatuckian]

Should I run it on part power or full power? And for how long approx?

However it was blowing the fuse.

Monitor the battery voltage with a digital multimeter. I would shut it off if it falls below 12v.

Regards,

Josh

 

[CplCuddles]

However it was blowing the fuse.
Monitor the battery voltage with a digital multimeter. I would shut it off if it falls below 12v.

Regards,

Josh

With the alt connected. Vehicle off voltage is 12.2.

Turned to start but not on. Voltage drops to 11.4.

vehicle on without stereo up 14.0-14.2.

Alt DC'd

resting voltage is the same.

Vehicle in started voltage the same.

Don't really wanna turn it up as the voltages are already below 12.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

With the alt connected. Vehicle off voltage is 12.2. Turned to start but not on. Voltage drops to 11.4.

vehicle on without stereo up 14.0-14.2.

Alt DC'd

resting voltage is the same.

Vehicle in started voltage the same.

Don't really wanna turn it up as the voltages are already below 12.

is this voltage at the amp terminals, or at the battery up front? makes a difference

amp doesnt protect? sounds like your battery is bad, should rest at 12.6-12.8 with vehicle off when fully charged

 

[CplCuddles]

is this voltage at the amp terminals, or at the battery up front? makes a difference
amp doesnt protect? sounds like your battery is bad, should rest at 12.6-12.8 with vehicle off when fully charged

I tested both. Both voltages were the same. My voltmeter is correct and it at my distro block input. I also used a multimeter to make sure. Amp doesn't protect. I was planning on getting an Optima Redtop. Think this should fix the issue? I do just have a stock batt. Think I killed it or am killing it anyway.

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

I tested both. Both voltages were the same. My voltmeter is correct and it at my distro block input. I also used a multimeter to make sure. Amp doesn't protect. I was planning on getting an Optima Redtop. Think this should fix the issue? I do just have a stock batt. Think I killed it or am killing it anyway.

optima redtops are not what they used to be, for the last 5+ years anyway

look up your group size and see if you can get an east penn type AGM battery. duracell makes them and theyre available at sams club, even if a friend has a membership itll save some money. i know theres a few other brands sold at autozone and advanceauto that are the same

i really dont understand why you're blowing fuses but i can tell you at those resting voltages your battery is bad and it MAY be contributing but in theory and logically it shouldnt be the reason you blow fuses. how hot does the amp get when the fuses blow? this may have been discussed but are you sure you're not overdriving the amp? be honest, everyone has done it and a little bit is okay but pushing it too hard and too hot can be a problem

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Someone give me a quick rundown here, OP still hasn't had his batteries and alternator load tested?

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Someone give me a quick rundown here, OP still hasn't had his batteries and alternator load tested?

sounds like it

 

[CplCuddles]

optima redtops are not what they used to be, for the last 5+ years anyway
look up your group size and see if you can get an east penn type AGM battery. duracell makes them and theyre available at sams club, even if a friend has a membership itll save some money. i know theres a few other brands sold at autozone and advanceauto that are the same

i really dont understand why you're blowing fuses but i can tell you at those resting voltages your battery is bad and it MAY be contributing but in theory and logically it shouldnt be the reason you blow fuses. how hot does the amp get when the fuses blow? this may have been discussed but are you sure you're not overdriving the amp? be honest, everyone has done it and a little bit is okay but pushing it too hard and too hot can be a problem

Tbh, the amp has always gotten pretty darn hot. Like I prob couldn't leave my hand on the top, regardless of fuses blowing or not. I may be overdriving it. Or was, I tuned with a -10db 30hz tone so on some songs I'm sure I clipped slightly. On higher bass I'm almost positive I did but I most listen to decaf 30hz range stuff. Ik I should have used more than just the one tone to set. I also set with an oscope btw. But it has ran like that for over a year with no issues until suddenly now.

Also, I haven't got anything load tested, where do I go for that and do they charge?

 

[wew lad 5,000+ posts]

Tbh, the amp has always gotten pretty darn hot. Like I prob couldn't leave my hand on the top, regardless of fuses blowing or not. I may be overdriving it. Or was, I tuned with a -10db 30hz tone so on some songs I'm sure I clipped slightly. On higher bass I'm almost positive I did but I most listen to decaf 30hz range stuff. Ik I should have used more than just the one tone to set. I also set with an oscope btw. But it has ran like that for over a year with no issues until suddenly now.Also, I haven't got anything load tested, where do I go for that and do they charge?

autozone and advanceauto will do it but i dont trust their equipment. its tested my batteries bad and i know they werent. no idea why, just cheap equipment im sure.

dont let it get that hot, it may have been a really hot day when it popped the fuses. heat is the enemy of electrical components, theyre designed to handle it within certain limits, without going into the technical details just understand they have a lifetime rating at certain temperatures and it goes down with higher temps