Amp is popping fuses... Tf.

I turned it up slowly back up to my full volume 30/35. It played at that volume for a few minutes. Then popped.My eq and all settings are flat btw.
Yeah I think your electrical isn't up to par. It's starving for more power and instead of getting that last little bit poof...bye bye fuse.

 
I'll add that, once the system is unable to supply amperage or voltage, your amp will shut down or toast.
Josh
Yeah I think your electrical isn't up to par. It's starving for more power and instead of getting that last little bit poof...bye bye fuse.
Yup...need to beef up your electrical man. Big 3 would be a very good start.

Oh wait...you said you did big 3 already. So what size wiring did you use what brand? And is/was it OFC or CCA?

 
Hello,

1. Make sure you have a clean ground. Use sandpaper to take off any paint that is between the body and the ground wire eye terminal, and that the screw is tight.

2. Using a multimeter, test for the resistance between the grounding wire where it connects to the amplifier, and any random places on the car body. You should be reading a few milliohms.

3. Check for ground between the case and the car body. Most amplifiers it shouldn't make a difference. Some, it may, even though it shouldn't. Grounding the amplifier case/heatsink/whatever you wanna call it is a good idea.

4. What happens if you run a 30a fuse in the power wire close to the battery, and a 40a in the amp itself? Which blows first?

Regards,

Josh

 
Hello,
1. Make sure you have a clean ground. Use sandpaper to take off any paint that is between the body and the ground wire eye terminal, and that the screw is tight.

2. Using a multimeter, test for the resistance between the grounding wire where it connects to the amplifier, and any random places on the car body. You should be reading a few milliohms.

3. Check for ground between the case and the car body. Most amplifiers it shouldn't make a difference. Some, it may, even though it shouldn't. Grounding the amplifier case/heatsink/whatever you wanna call it is a good idea.

4. What happens if you run a 30a fuse in the power wire close to the battery, and a 40a in the amp itself? Which blows first?

Regards,

Josh
1. I sandpapered the amp grounds down to bare metal. And I used a metal brush and a drill to grind the big 3 grounds.

2. I will do that, I'll go get a multimeter sometime.

3. How would I check for that?

4. I believe the fuse up front is like a 200amp, the amp has 4 40amp fuses. Can't really test that because it's an inline fuse. Dunno where to buy a fuse like that.

I'm just honestly confused why all this all of a sudden started happening. In my Taurus it played fine even though it dropped it in the 11s. I put it in my Tahoe and it worked fine for like a month and had much better voltages, 13s, then all of sudden keeps popping fuses. And doing the big 3 did essentially nothing. It's not like I turned it up then it blew. I was playing at max volume everyday throughout that time. I don't get it. I mean I suppose I could save and buy a ho alt. I mean I planned on getting one anyway. Maybe that fixes it, but if it don't, tf..

 
Hello,

What's the Big 3? I keep seeing that, but when I was doing this before all we did was add a capacitor and maybe a deep cycle battery. (I didn't even need the capacitor; just ran a deep cycle and all was well.)

Checking between the case and ground is easy. Just put a multimeter lead on the case, and another on the car body or frame. If you don't get infinite resistance, it's grounded.

Regards,

Josh

 
Hey guys, I have an SAZ-1500d and it keeps popping fuses. It happened once a couple months ago, I took it to a local shop to bench they said it's fine. Worked fine after that up until about a week ago. It popped on max volume (30/35) so I replaced the fuse thinking that it was the song because I believe on high bass I clip a little the way it's tuned (not positive just a guess.) It wasn't hot or anything so I turned it back up on a normal lower bass song and it pepper again. Replaced and tested that it popped on 29+ not on 28. Went like that for about a day, then popped on 28. Replaced and turned down even more to 26. Two days ago, it popped on 26. At this point I turned the gain way down and have been running a 20amp fuse in lue of it's normal 40. Did I f up my amp? If so, what did I do that did it so I can preferably not do it again. My thought is that the gain was too high. I tuned with a 30hz -10db tone to get a nice gain overlap. My curiosity is why after almost a year is it just now have problems? Thanks!
Place the PROPER Fuse that the amplifier calls for. Id try that FIRST???

 
Try turning your gains down by two clicks..or even 3..Still starving for power..That a POS Lead /Stock Battery??Two AGM batts and Big3 and stock Alt of 120-140 and you shouldnt be having any issues my experience

 
Reading a bit more on fuse blowing and says to check speaker impedance and/or check for a short on power wire and vehicle chassis.

 
Reading a bit more on fuse blowing and says to check speaker impedance and/or check for a short on power wire and vehicle chassis.
How do I check speaker inpedance? And what am I looking for? And then I would imagine if the power was shorting to the chassis both amps would be having this problem.

Try turning your gains down by two clicks..or even 3..Still starving for power..That a POS Lead /Stock Battery??Two AGM batts and Big3 and stock Alt of 120-140 and you shouldnt be having any issues my experience
I did turn it down about a an eighth turn. Still pops fuses at full volume though. Yeah running stock bat. Should I upgrade front bat to like a optima redtop and then get a yellowtop for the back? Think that will fix the issue?

Place the PROPER Fuse that the amplifier calls for. Id try that FIRST???
Well I had the right fuse. Then they started blowing and I only had a 20amp. I have more 40amps now.

The main thing I don't get is why now? After almost a year..?

 
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