Amp is popping fuses... Tf.

[CplCuddles]

Hey guys, I have an SAZ-1500d and it keeps popping fuses. It happened once a couple months ago, I took it to a local shop to bench they said it's fine. Worked fine after that up until about a week ago. It popped on max volume (30/35) so I replaced the fuse thinking that it was the song because I believe on high bass I clip a little the way it's tuned (not positive just a guess.) It wasn't hot or anything so I turned it back up on a normal lower bass song and it pepper again. Replaced and tested that it popped on 29+ not on 28. Went like that for about a day, then popped on 28. Replaced and turned down even more to 26. Two days ago, it popped on 26. At this point I turned the gain way down and have been running a 20amp fuse in lue of it's normal 40. Did I f up my amp? If so, what did I do that did it so I can preferably not do it again. My thought is that the gain was too high. I tuned with a 30hz -10db tone to get a nice gain overlap. My curiosity is why after almost a year is it just now have problems? Thanks!

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[honkyg 10+ year member]

sounds like you might be over-driving it due to possible voltage loss or internal components starting to fail and in need of service. idk, without a rundown of your setup, its hard to make a concise assessment. might want to take voltage measurements at all the power wire connection points to see if you've incurred a bad connection to start eliminating things you can fix on your own.

 

[CplCuddles]

I have a 2002 Tahoe.

Sundown x-12 @1ohm tuned to 29hz.

Saz-1500d

Sax-100.4

4 crescendo audio symphony coaxs @4ohms

Stock alt, I think 130amp.

Volt meter is at the receiving end of the distro block so I can see input voltage for both combined(or is that wrong.) I never see it drop below 13v though.

 

[honkyg 10+ year member]

hmm, sounds odd.

its always best to adjust gain with an oscilloscope and multiple tones within the reproduction spectrum applied, but some don't have access to such, so adjustment with a multimeter will do following this chart;

View attachment 26556324

check voltage at amp input terminals with a multimeter, cuz ya never know.

what about;

big 3

batts (front and/or rear)

other than rectifying these possible issues, id have to say your amp is going kaput.

 

[CplCuddles]

I originally set with an oscope. I was planning on doing big 3 last weekend but waited due to issues. I don't know whether this is a get a new amp or get this amp fixed situation tbh.

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Might try to have your battery and alternator load tested. It makes sense that if your input voltage is becoming weak the amp is trying to draw more current to try to make the same power it used to.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

No big 3 done yet? No wonder your electrical is straining.

Gotta love when people add audio's to their vehicles yet ignore the most important thing of all: your electrical system. See, with today's or even past vehicles, those electrical leads are barely big enough to handle the factory electrical system. When ever something is added to it, it draws more current/amps, and that's where the bigger wires come in. The bigger, the better so it's easier to have more current flow rather than restricting it.

If I were you, i would take it easy 1st until your able to fix the issue/problem. Unless you wanna buy a new amp/sub. ******** asside, save your equipment, get your problem fixed when you can.

 

[dbjunior 10+ year member]

Those are solid amps. i ran one for two years at .5ohm witg big 3, 1/0 and extra battery in back it would still drop voltage after a song full blast got a 270a alt and never saw low voltage again. 1 ohm wont be as power hungry but with a slight clip will still drop your voltage without added power. If you get a better alt and you will have room for future upgrades. I recommend irragi alts. I have had great customer service from them. They have lifetime warrantys and if you sell your vehicle they will recase the alt to fit your new car for just $99. Alts are the more exspensive route rather than a battery or maxwell bank but its the better route.

 

[Wabatuckian]

Measure the sub's resistance to make sure it's not gone south. Are you running a capacitor? If not you may have weakened your electrical system and are drawing amperage in lieu of voltage.

Josh

 

[CplCuddles]

My electrical doesn't seem to be"straining" it was hitting low 11s before in my Taurus. This is a huge improvement in comparison. Even so, why would that cause a fuse to blow? Obv I don't have a full understanding of how the fuses work. Someone explain? I only thought they would blow if overdrawn?

 

[Wabatuckian]

My electrical doesn't seem to be"straining" it was hitting low 11s before in my Taurus. This is a huge improvement in comparison. Even so, why would that cause a fuse to blow? Obv I don't have a full understanding of how the fuses work. Someone explain? I only thought they would blow if overdrawn?

It's all a balance.

Wattage is voltage times current.

13v * 20a = 260w ... Mmmmkay?

However, if your charging system is only putting out 12v, then

12v * 20a = 240w

So, if your amp requires 260w nominal but doesn't have the required voltage, then

260w / 12v = 21.67a

Therefore, a 20a fuse will blow.

Regards,

Josh

 

[Wabatuckian]

I'll add that, once the system is unable to supply amperage or voltage, your amp will shut down or toast.

Josh

 

[CplCuddles]

I did the big 3 tonight. Finally... Don't have a spare 40 amp fuse to replace the 20amp that is in its place. I'll get one tomorrow to fully test. Hope my amp is ok .-.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Good deal.

Would like to say upgrading the vehicle's charging system should be top priority before adding anything audio.

 

[CplCuddles]

Went and bought a box of 40amp fuses. Put one in and it played fine for a few minutes then blew. What now?