Amp going in protect mode randomly

[Xkrtwi]

My system has been working good for the past year but now my amp randomly goes into protect mode. The music or volume doesnt affect it. I have allready checked and tightened all wiring connections and measured the voltage but the problem doesnt seem to go away, any suggestions what should i do?
When it goes into protect mode the subwoofer pops quietly every couple of seconds

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[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

My system has been working good for the past year but now my amp randomly goes into protect mode. The music or volume doesnt affect it. I have allready checked and tightened all wiring connections and measured the voltage but the problem doesnt seem to go away, any suggestions what should i do?
When it goes into protect mode the subwoofer pops quietly every couple of seconds

Pull your sub or sub woofers and check the ohm value on each coil with a DMM(Digital Multi meter or multi meter) to see if each coil on each sub woofer are within the normal ohm limitation value. You may have a bad coil on sub/ and or loose wiring/ connection. There are several videos to choose from to learn how to use a DMM properly to check the ohm value on any speaker. I would check your supply wiring under the hood also to see if you have a loose connection for your supply or corrosion. It may be time to refresh your connections with a fresh sign of copper without corrosion. ( I usually leave approx 6 inches on either side of my ANL fuse to cut back and freshen up to a clean wiring if needed)Check your Ground connection as well make sure it is secure as well as the remote wiring.Check all wiring first.Check supply fuses to make sure not loose or brittle, if so, change those out they are cheap to replace usually.Bumpy roads over time will loosen up connections as well as moisture and road grime introduced to corrosion for wiring and connections..

 

[Xkrtwi]

Pull your sub or sub woofers and check the ohm value on each coil with a DMM(Digital Multi meter or multi meter) to see if each coil on each sub woofer are within the normal ohm limitation value. You may have a bad coil on sub/ and or loose wiring/ connection. There are several videos to choose from to learn how to use a DMM properly to check the ohm value on any speaker. I would check your supply wiring under the hood also to see if you have a loose connection for your supply or corrosion. It may be time to refresh your connections with a fresh sign of copper without corrosion. ( I usually leave approx 6 inches on either side of my ANL fuse to cut back and freshen up to a clean wiring if needed)Check your Ground connection as well make sure it is secure as well as the remote wiring.Check all wiring first.Check supply fuses to make sure not loose or brittle, if so, change those out they are cheap to replace usually.Bumpy roads over time will loosen up connections as well as moisture and road grime introduced to corrosion for wiring and connections..

Thank you for replying, I have changed battery terminals and tightened all cable connections and sanded the metal and connectors surfaces to make sure they have a good connection, subwoofer is a dual 2 ohm voice coil wired to 1ohm, measuring 1.3 ohms.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Thank you for replying, I have changed battery terminals and tightened all cable connections and sanded the metal and connectors surfaces to make sure they have a good connection, subwoofer is a dual 2 ohm voice coil wired to 1ohm, measuring 1.3 ohms.

I would check EACH coil not wired together. Have you pulled your sub to see if you have a loose connection inside the enclosure??

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

You may have to pull that amp and do a bench test on it with a load to see if that amp has an issue if you do not find any loose connections inside the enclosure. As well as after checking each coil on the sub. But reading 1.3 at a final load is a good reading for a dvc 2 sub.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Might check your RCAs at the HU to see if those have loosened up as well. Remote wire on amp and where you may have spliced together also?

 

[Xkrtwi]

Might check your RCAs at the HU to see if those have loosened up as well. Remote wire on amp and where you may have spliced together also?

I have taken the sub out and done the connections again making sure that they are good, checked the rcas and changed the wiring behind the hud, remote wire is spliced to volt meter, the amp goes in protect for couple of second then comes back on, sometimes it takes longer to get back and sometimes it doesnt go into protect at all

 

[Xkrtwi]

Heres couple pictures inside the amp

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

I have taken the sub out and done the connections again making sure that they are good, checked the rcas and changed the wiring behind the hud, remote wire is spliced to volt meter, the amp goes in protect for couple of second then comes back on, sometimes it takes longer to get back and sometimes it doesnt go into protect at all

Sounds like you have been trying to locate the culprit by elimination process. I would feel and lean towards an internal issue with that amplifier. Its possible that there may be loose mosfet contacts from heat, Loose cap connection on the board or power or ground supply ect?? You may be able to open it up if it is no longer under warranty and view to see if any loose connections ect. What amplifier is it? You can possibly take it to a local car audio shop and have them test it with a load on it ? Some shops will charge like $25-50 bucks, and some may not charge at all. If under warranty just get an RMA and send it back

 

[Xkrtwi]

Sounds like you have been trying to locate the culprit by elimination process. I would feel and lean towards an internal issue with that amplifier. Its possible that there may be loose mosfet contacts from heat, Loose cap connection on the board or power or ground supply ect?? You may be able to open it up if it is no longer under warranty and view to see if any loose connections ect. What amplifier is it? You can possibly take it to a local car audio shop and have them test it with a load on it ? Some shops will charge like $25-50 bucks, and some may not charge at all. If under warranty just get an RMA and send it back

Its a mds torque xtr t9 its a scandinavian brand i suppose

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

From the PICS I cant see anything really to be honest. You can take a Pick tool and go around and pluck on all the Mosfet legs to see if you may have a loose solder joint on the board connection ect with all the Diodes ect.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Its a mds torque xtr t9 its a scandinavian brand i suppose

Ya.. Ive never heard of or have seen that brand of amplifier

 

[Xkrtwi]

From the PICS I cant see anything really to be honest. You can take a Pick tool and go around and pluck on all the Mosfet legs to see if you may have a loose solder joint on the board connection ect with all the Diodes ect.

What do you think about the caps, is it normal for the plastic covers to fall out and the capacitor to be scraped

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

Last PIC.. The 3rd and 4th Caps?? from Bottom up on the pic right side?? Whats up with those?? Swelling? Did they Blow at the Top end?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

What do you think about the caps, is it normal for the plastic covers to fall out and the capacitor to be scraped

LOL.. Not Normal