Alternator... is a 105A strong enough to run this amplifier?

[hawk45 10+ year member]

Have a alpine HU and just added a Profile AP1000M amp and sub. Week later alternator (at least I think) died. Car won't hold charge. Anyway... need to get fixed asap... local autozone has 105Amp alternators. Will they be strong enough to run this amp? Here are specs:

http://www.millionbuy.com/prfap1000m.html

Peak Output Power(4 Ohms): 650W x 1

RMS Output Power(4 Ohms): 310W x 1

Peak Output Power(2 Ohms): 1000W x 1

RMS Output Power(2 Ohms): 500W x 1

Bridged RMS Output Power(4 Ohms): N/A

MOSFET Power Supply

Total Harmonic Distortion:

Signal/Noise Ratio: 103 dB

High/Low Level Converter(Male RCA)

Pre-Amp(RCA) Outputs

Variable Bass Boost@45Hz: 0 - 12 dB

12dB/Octave Crossover: LP (Built-In)

Variable LP Crossover Frequemcy: 50 - 250 Hz

Variable HP Crossover Frequency: N/A

Bass Level Remote Control (16.4 ft)

Variable 12dB/Octave Subsonic Filter: 20 - 50 Hz

Variable Phase Control: 0 - 180¡Æ

Fuse(s): 2 X 30A

Dimensions (WxHxD): 13 5/8" X 2" x 10 1/4"

Power/Speaker Terminal Size(Gauge): 4/6

Thanks guys..

Click to read more...

 

[spitfirees20 10+ year member]

Oh yeah, I would say so. That's not a problem at all, the only thing is what kind of car do you have? Must have been a pretty weak stock alt for just that amp and hu to kill it, I mean it's not drawing major amps or anything at all.

 

[Silver 10+ year member]

how many amps does that amp draw at max power

 

[hawk45 10+ year member]

I have a 99 Chev Blazer (S-10 Style). Everything was running fine yesterday till I went to lunch and battery light came on as I was driving. Came back to work and when went to leave (5 hrs later) all was good. Got in and started driving and radio began to shutoff. Would come back on in few seconds then go out again. So I popped off the faceplate and drove in silence for a bit. Put the face back on and got tunes up and running again. Started doing same thing. Battery light came on again. Got home and today... DEAD.. uggghh.

I tried jumping tonight when got home from work (took wifes car) and it started but was idleing really rough and all kinds of lights blinking. Turned off and tried to start again but no go..

Guess I will hit AutoZone with the battery tomorrow and get it tested and pick up an alternator.

 

[hawk45 10+ year member]

how many amps does that amp draw at max power

Looks like 60 Amp fuses (30x2)

310W RMS/ 650W MAX = .47

.47 x 60A = 28.2A continuous draw

So if I figure a 105A alternator

105 x .40 reserve = 42A reserve

42A reserve - 28.2A continuous should be good correct?

 

[bonesninja 5,000+ posts]

try summit racing or jegs man...they should have a 140 amp unit for your car and that will be plenty. my alt is 63 amps stock and i upgraded to 140 with a yellow top and i'm running a mean machine 1400.1 and a mean machine 100.4 with no problems what-so-ever.

 

[thugpassion 10+ year member]

try summit racing or jegs man...they should have a 140 amp unit for your car and that will be plenty.

that sounds like a good idea if you can afford to wait for shipping, but you should have no problems running that amp

 

[lionel2 10+ year member]

I have a 105A alt in my blazer and my amp is 500x1 @ 4ohm i have a regular battery..i have no problems my volts stay at 14.4

 

[hawk45 10+ year member]

Got the stock out this AM... heading over to AutoZone to get battery and alt tested.

 

[n2audio 5,000+ posts]

Looks like 60 Amp fuses (30x2)310W RMS/ 650W MAX = .47

.47 x 60A = 28.2A continuous draw

WTF is that??

Dividing rms power by peak power has nothing to do with current draw.

You're just running one 4 ohm sub?

If you want to figure current draw it works like this...

310w/.6 (60% efficiency) = 517w

517/~14v = 37A = full power test tone current draw

Typical music crest factor is at most 1/3 rms-to-peak power so for music you're looking at no more than 15A to play music LOUD.

IMO 105A should be enough alternator to run 2 of those amps at 2 ohms.

 

[80INCHES 5,000+ posts]

WTF is that??
Dividing rms power by peak power has nothing to do with current draw.

You're just running one 4 ohm sub?

If you want to figure current draw it works like this...

310w/.6 (60% efficiency) = 517w

517/~14v = 37A = full power test tone current draw

Typical music crest factor is at most 1/3 rms-to-peak power so for music you're looking at no more than 15A to play music LOUD.

IMO 105A should be enough alternator to run 2 of those amps at 2 ohms.

hmmm

i wonder what my 115amp alt and my orion1200 will do

80

 

[501scionxb 10+ year member]

Looks like 60 Amp fuses (30x2)310W RMS/ 650W MAX = .47

.47 x 60A = 28.2A continuous draw

So if I figure a 105A alternator

105 x .40 reserve = 42A reserve

42A reserve - 28.2A continuous should be good correct?

im lost where tha hell did u get .40 from?

 

[TypeRBass 10+ year member]

im lost where tha hell did u get .40 from?

usually a stock alternator has 40% reserve to run other things that you wish. so really only 60% is used to run the cars electrical system...and the other 40% just kinda sits there for when you need it.

 

[bonesninja 5,000+ posts]

that sounds like a good idea if you can afford to wait for shipping, but you should have no problems running that amp

we happen to live in ohio...so shipping isn't really an issue as long as they have the part in stock. Hell i live an hour form either one of them so if i need it sooner i just drive.

 

[Silver 10+ year member]

Hmmmm. I have a 105Amp alt and I run a Hifonics BX1500D and a Alpine MRP-240. I get minimal volt drops and my car runs fine. NO problems. I also Have seat-heaters and a hotshot that draws 60amps of current when on. I can run everything without a problem.

I'd just get a replacement alt. (105A) or if you have the money upgrade to a 140. Doesn't hurt at all.