ALL DONE install (almost)

cbuts
10+ year member

CarAudio.com Elite
install pictures by cbuts05 - Photobucket

components installed, door skin wont go on ( need to trim corner of wood on each side )

windows im pretty sure go down but are hitting magnet ( 1 side wont go down actually )
going to add some weatherstripping and hope that helps fix it on each side.

still have to silicone and cut the drill for in the middle of the tweeters.

it was a long day into night, tommorow we will be trimming the wood, adding weatherstrip, and the grills on the tweeters, also going to deaden the holes in my door as i have a few little peices.

heres pics of oldest albums
mount pictures by cbuts05 - Photobucket
Pictures by cbuts05 - Photobucket
car pictures by cbuts05 - Photobucket
car2 pictures by cbuts05 - Photobucket

probably going to see alot of things you dont like, dont really care if you hate it, was my first install with my dad replacing everything i had to begin with pretty much.

tips and comments are greatly appreciated.

thanks to everyone that has helped me along the way including
@CivicGti @Kangaroux @pinoy2o9 @princ3cmo @TheUnderFighter
and A SPECIAL THANKS TO @Joseph7195 AND @keep_hope_alive
 
as we discussed, i think you did a good job on your doors for a first attempt. i've remade mine several times over the years. good job on the tweeters. they look nice.

how much weatherstripping to use depends on how much you have. try to get 1/4" additional depth. the firm rubber weatherstripping seems to work best for adding depth - something you can't smash down with your fingers.

 
Yay!! I am glad you are about done! Those tweeters came out Sweet looking!! It won't be long and you will be moving up to 15's and two sets of components, and we will still be here helping!!
haha your probably right..

Let us know how you like the overall sound and performance when you get it done and tuned.
well, i got my acv set to like 19 at 40/50 volume, i usually play 36/39 - 50,

i can already notice the tweets are a little bright, but im impressed as now i can hear my fronts over my rears.. lol

also its a little far away from the door panel, which im sure would make it alot louder if moved up some more, but oh well :p

 
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Very nice. I have to start working on my 'Bu soon.

Your baffles are pretty large. Is that just single 3/4''? I assume you have enough clearance for the window to roll down. I also like where your xovers are but make sure you don't get a lot of moisture in that location. I had to throw my door skin out because the last installers trashed them and the adhesive was failing from years in 110+ summers.

I'm going to coat my baffles in fiberglass resin to make them waterproof. Oh and the tweets look great.

**For the door deadening experts: On the hole where the door lock rod is, how exactly do you go about covering that up. I know it's best to seal up all holes, but in order for the locks to work you will have to leave a bit of a gap. Should I just cover up the hole as best I can? Thanks.

Oh and another thing, I was going to use egg crate foam, but I heard it can hold water, should I spray silicone on it to waterproof it too? What about rockwool? It is an insulator but I was wondering how effective it is at breaking up sound waves, plus its waterproof.

 
Very nice. I have to start working on my 'Bu soon.
Your baffles are pretty large. Is that just single 3/4''? I assume you have enough clearance for the window to roll down. I also like where your xovers are but make sure you don't get a lot of moisture in that location. I had to throw my door skin out because the last installers trashed them and the adhesive was failing from years in 110+ summers.

I'm going to coat my baffles in fiberglass resin to make them waterproof. Oh and the tweets look great.

**For the door deadening experts: On the hole where the door lock rod is, how exactly do you go about covering that up. I know it's best to seal up all holes, but in order for the locks to work you will have to leave a bit of a gap. Should I just cover up the hole as best I can? Thanks.

Oh and another thing, I was going to use egg crate foam, but I heard it can hold water, should I spray silicone on it to waterproof it too? What about rockwool? It is an insulator but I was wondering how effective it is at breaking up sound waves, plus its waterproof.
keep gave me a really good idea for the door rod, he said to use the stuff u cover wires with, the tubing, cover the rod in that, and then cover the tubing with the deadener.

i was lazy and in a hurry before work, so i just slapped a peice on each door at these spots lol, (idk if itll fall off later i pushed it down n went around it with a screwdriver handle haha )

Image - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting

 
I'm finally almost done with my install. 1 quick question though...

How the f did you get feed the wire through the rubber boot in the door jamb? I'm having a hell of a time with it. I was able to get the wire from inside the door to the first grommet but getting it through the second one is beating me up.

Another question: Where do the wires come down from the jamb on the drivers side? and passenger side? Did you have to remove anything like the glove box or where the steering wheel is? I just lifted up my trim along the door and kicks to run RCA's and speaker wire.

Everything is working for me. I hooked up my speakers w/o installing them in the door and my 2 channel is working great. So almost done, just need to feed wires and reattach the door panels.

 
@cbuts

I got the passenger door all done. I still can't figure out the driver's side though. I'm fishing around near the parking brake and can't find where the interior grommet is.

One problem with the passenger side though, when feeding wire through the passenger jamb, a tiny black wire looks like it broke off, I'm guessing it goes to the window or door lock. Fvck...
 
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