aero turn

precision ports are abs pipes
so abs pipes use a different sizing system or something?

i swear i remember reading tommyk said you had to sand the pvc pipe down to make it fit the psp ports.

i dont know much about the plumbing stuff...so, are pvc and abs pipes different?

 
I used some of the true radiused elbows on a box I built a while ago and didn't have any problem with port noise (granted the 12's weren't super long throw woofers, like 14mm xmax). Not the best pic, but you can kinda see them in there. Oh BTW, I believe the piping was PVC (lighter weight and thinner) and the elbows were abs (IIRC there were different options on the inside diameter of the 4" elbows for both the thicker and thinner piping, but this was 6 or so years ago so don't quote me on that)

410038_5_full.jpg


 
I used some of the true radiused elbows on a box I built a while ago and didn't have any problem with port noise (granted the 12's weren't super long throw woofers, like 14mm xmax). Not the best pic, but you can kinda see them in there
410038_5_full.jpg
are they completely smooth on the inside? or do they have little bumps on the connection points?

 
haha shit. i should of read megalo's post before i made mine. mofo has a picture and everything.
Megalo: so the psp ends fit just fine on regular pvc pipes? some people said they sizes a just a little bit different so you cant get them to fit without some work. yours looks like you just popped it right in like i was designed for it

yea it does dip down inside but when you put the flares in it fits perfect to where its almost a perfect transition from the joints, some gaffers tape inside will make it smoother or some resin. With the elbow i really didnt need to make the port any longer it was already to the length i needed for the most part. i'll play with length more when box is finished.

just an fyi the only reason i am using an elbow is because my box has to be shallow and the psp requires about 2" in front of mouth to breathe properly

 
yea it does dip down inside but when you put the flares in it fits perfect to where its almost a perfect transition from the joints, some gaffers tape inside will make it smoother or some resin. With the elbow i really didnt need to make the port any longer it was already to the length i needed for the most part. i'll play with length more when box is finished.

just an fyi the only reason i am using an elbow is because my box has to be shallow and the psp requires about 2" in front of mouth to breathe properly
any chance you can get/try to, a picture of the inside?

 
first thing in the morning i'll try to.
actually...here is another shot see on this end it doesnt transition as well do to the flare but the other side the flare has a longer neck kinda so it snaps perfectly snug

IMG_0764.jpg
ahhh, i see it.

seems like you might even just be able to cut down the elbow, so that its shorter, thus letting the flare end drop farther down until it reaches that "bump"

 
yup, smart man //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
hmm, might have to pick up some 4" flared ends then.

i was gonna go the whole 1.5" round over bit for a nice big *** flare ( i believe the psp ports have a little over 1" of radius), a jasper jig 200, a new router, etc etc and do the whole nine yards with pvc ports (spend the money now, make an infinite amount of flared ports later) but shit, i can put together some decent shit (buy 4 sets of inside/outside flares) and make 4 4" flared ports for less than $30 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/tongue.gif.6130eb82179565f6db8d26d6001dcd24.gif

 
are they completely smooth on the inside? or do they have little bumps on the connection points?
I don't have the box anymore cause I sold it with the jeep and this was 6+ years ago, but as far as I remember it was a rather smooth transition w/ no bumps or deformations in the plastic. In the pic you can see a small gap in two of the ports though. It didn't ever have any port noise though.

 
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