Add an extra sub or get a new LOC?

[Archer3545]

Ok so I drive a 2015 Mustang with the bass audio. Which if you're not familiar is 4 factory 6.5" door speakers and 2 tweeters. No factory amp at all no sub. I replaced the stock speakers with some ok speakers that are definetly better than the ones I had but don't play a lot of bass. (this was intentional) I like a lot of bass hiphop is all I listen too and I drive a lot. The reason I did this is because, I don't like how the music gets distorted when there is a lot of bass in a song. So I added a sub (closed box). Also my friend who listens to the same music has a completely stock car audio system that was a similar setup to mine stock 4 speakers and 2 tweeters however his factory speakers played a lot more bass than my factory ones did and it was completely uncomfortable to even touch the door. So that's my reasoning for the door speakers I choose. Also I am very new to car audio and this was my first install. I have the pollarities correct and enough power to power the speakers and subs. I even added a capacitor. Anyway needless to say I was disapointed with the bass from my 8" 300w dual voice coil sub. I wasn't expecting much. I want to feel the bass more while driving down the highway. While iddling the bass sounds good but I do 90% of my driving at highway speeds and the feel from the sub gets drowned out by the vibrations of driving down the road. (not the loudess but the vibrations you feel.) I have the stock head unit and I use a LOC. The LOC I got off amazon was cheap and I was planning on upgrading this down the road. Well it's been a couple of months and I have enough money to get the LOC I originally intended to get, or I get a second sub identical to the one I currently have. I have heard that some stock head units are programed to dial the bass back to work better on crappy factory speakers and I specifically heard this from an aftermarket speaker and sub install video about my car (I don't trust the guy in the video all that much after I did the install). The

LOC I have is this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0YCK0E/?tag=caraudiocom-20
keywords=Line+out+converter&qid=1578082804&sr=8-14

The LOC I would buy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ATHBO86/?tag=caraudiocom-20

I have one 4 chanel amp and a 2 channel amp for the sub so I had to use 2 rca
splitters. The amp for the sub https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KKHTFSK/?tag=caraudiocom-20

The sub amp is overpowered. wired at 2 channels at 2 ohms. If I get the second sub I would have to wire them to 2 channels at 4 ohms (because they are dual voice coil) and the rms power from my amp would actually match the rms power of only one sub this amp 150w it is only like 50% efficient. I don't have the money to get an extra amp rn. What do you guys think? Could the it be limited by a cheap loc or is it just because it's a cheap sub. Also I don't want to clip my subs if I get a second one it could be a while before I also get another amp and I don't want to risk them getting damaged.

Click to read more...

 

[BCotrell]

Factory hu’s are Typically meant to power factory speakers and their internal amp power/signal is not great for aftermarket amps/speakers. Why not swap to an aftermarket headunit? Skip the lc7i and get A $120 single din at the same price. that gets you everything you need including a clean strong signal to all your amps without splitting and separate eq and tuning to all of your soundstage correctly.

what aftermarket speakers did you get and what sub do you have? My input might change once you tell us your speakers and sub but here’s a suggestion

1.Aftermarket headunit
2. Run front aftermarket speakers on four channel amp bridged to two channels. You don’t need rears but could run them on the headunit power.
3. Keep sub on sub amp bridged

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

LOCs wont do anything you'll want to swap the head unit or get a DSP that can actually fix the audio signal, flatten the EQ and restore all the missing frequencies so you have a flat full signal. Audiocontrol LCs are junk by today's standards. Your current Ideas will all fail because you are getting a signal that has a built in high pass crossover (cuts off bass to protect door speakers) and has its own factory EQ. What you are doing is just amplifying a weak garbage signal. Garbage in, garbage out. An 8 inch sub isnt enough especially in a sealed box. You want at least a 12 if you using a sealed box but fix your signal before moving onto this issue.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

we have SOOOOOO many threads of noobs underestimating the power of a proper RCA subwoofer output signal with proper pre-out voltage. It literally makes or breaks your system. You can literally spend 50 grand on your system, subs speakers, amps etc... but if you still use a crappy LOC on a stock head unit, your system will be no better than a flea market system.

 

[Archer3545]

I'm not trying to be rude to those of you who suggested but idk if you've seen the newer mustangs but my car has a tiny screen with a backup cam that I want to keep and it's not easily upgradable because you can't just change the stereo in that car Ford made it hard on the S550 mustangs and the stereo, the push to start button, climate controls, and more are all on one unit and the aftermarket replacements are fishy and expensive.

 

[BCotrell]

Your best bet is to do what you need to do to get a deequalized signal to your amps. this could work since it has speaker level inputs

JL Audio FiX 86 OEM Integration Digital Sound Processor

JL Audio FiX 86 Digital Sound Processor • OEM Integration Digital Sound Processor with Automatic Time Correction and Digital EQ • OEM Integration DSP with Automatic Time Correction and Digital EQ • 8 Channel inputs • 2 Channel Stereo RCA outputs • 24-bit DSP processor • Dual 1/3 octave...

www.sonicelectronix.com

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

I'm not trying to be rude to those of you who suggested but idk if you've seen the newer mustangs but my car has a tiny screen with a backup cam that I want to keep and it's not easily upgradable because you can't just change the stereo in that car Ford made it hard on the S550 mustangs and the stereo, the push to start button, climate controls, and more are all on one unit and the aftermarket replacements are fishy and expensive.

Again you weren't listening i said head unit OR dsp. If you dont know what a dsp is you should google. It allows you to keep everything stock and do what you need to do.

 

[Archer3545]

Again you weren't listening i said head unit OR dsp. If you dont know what a dsp is you should google. It allows you to keep everything stock and do what you need to do.

Yes I did look it up. I have not heard of a DSP until now but what I'm seeing from limited research is it's basically a better type of LOC that gives you more control over your sound. So with a good DSP do you think I should get more bass out of my system? Also I was merely trying to explain why I can't change the factory head unit or won't although it is ideal (no disrespect) I appreciate the input.

 

[Archer3545]

One other thing I forgot to mention when I change my car volume from like 70% to 100% it doesn't get much louder when compared to going from 40% to 70% don't get me wrong it's it's honestly too loud in most songs and can honestly hurt your ears a little I just think it's odd so I think it's being limited. Idk ik 300 watts isn't a lot I just feel like compared to how my system sounded stock. It is louder and sounds a lot cleaner but I feel like that bass should be way better than what it was. I'm sure a DSP will help some and then the only thing that's going to make me happy is getting a new amp and sub. So I'm probably going to add those in that order when I can. Thanks to everyone for the help. I'm still a noob at car audio I'm leaning as I go but I'm really into enthusiast diy and I love to learn this stuff that normal people are too scared or too lazy to do themselves.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Yes I did look it up. I have not heard of a DSP until now but what I'm seeing from limited research is it's basically a better type of LOC that gives you more control over your sound. So with a good DSP do you think I should get more bass out of my system? Also I was merely trying to explain why I can't change the factory head unit or won't although it is ideal (no disrespect) I appreciate the input.

These DSPs have factory de equalization which gives you a flat signal and sums up all the signal to give you a full range signal along with restoring bass. These arent your normal garbage audiocontrol LOCs that do absolutely nothing other than amplifying the garbage signal.

If you can give up the use of your head unit, you can just have music played straight to the DSP via bluetooth which bypasses your head unit completely but you'll need to amp everything with the signal coming straight from your phone to the dsp. This gives a very clean signal.

 

[Archer3545]

Update:
I went with a LC7i Line out converter. I didn't have the money for a DSP.
What I learned:
The old $30 LOC I had that honestly look like a childrens toy was obviously an issue, bigger than I anticipated. I actually blew my sub with the LC7i (I have a theory for why it blew but I'm going to make a new thread because I learned about a much bigger issue that is very difficult to diagnose and it involves ANC in newer cars and adding an aftermarket sound sound system).
It sounded 10x better the bass was a night and day difference and it overall sounded nicer. Conclusion don't cheap out on the LOC and buy a stupid $30 one. Get a nice quality LOC or if you have the money a DSP.

Link to my other post:

Engine Noises in aftermarket sound system

Initial Problem: So I drive a 2015 S550 mustang ecoboost manual with the base sound system (4 **** door woofers, 2 tweeters, no sub, no factory amp). I completely redid the sound system I replaced the 4 stock speakers with some nice midrange ones and added a sub. I did this on my own and...

www.caraudio.com

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Update:
I went with a LC7i Line out converter. I didn't have the money for a DSP.
What I learned:
The old $30 LOC I had that honestly look like a childrens toy was obviously an issue, bigger than I anticipated. I actually blew my sub with the LC7i (I have a theory for why it blew but I'm going to make a new thread because I learned about a much bigger issue that is very difficult to diagnose and it involves ANC in newer cars and adding an aftermarket sound sound system).
It sounded 10x better the bass was a night and day difference and it overall sounded nicer. Conclusion don't cheap out on the LOC and buy a stupid $30 one. Get a nice quality LOC or if you have the money a DSP.

yeah but it blew because you are still amplifying a garbage signal. The accubass is just a bass boost, it doesnt actually fix the issue. Just wait till you actually hear a proper RCA sub out from a flat signal. Again Signal is the one most important thing in car audio, everyone sleeps on it.

 

[Archer3545]

yeah but it blew because you are still amplifying a garbage signal. The accubass is just a bass boost, it doesnt actually fix the issue. Just wait till you actually hear a proper RCA sub out from a flat signal. Again Signal is the one most important thing in car audio, everyone sleeps on it.

Well yes but actually no. I recomend you go to my other thread that I just posted where I explain why it blew. It wasn't from me not knowing what I'm doing Like I initially thought

Engine Noises in aftermarket sound system

Initial Problem: So I drive a 2015 S550 mustang ecoboost manual with the base sound system (4 **** door woofers, 2 tweeters, no sub, no factory amp). I completely redid the sound system I replaced the 4 stock speakers with some nice midrange ones and added a sub. I did this on my own and...

www.caraudio.com

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

Well yes but actually no. I recomend you go to my other thread that I just posted where I explain why it blew. It wasn't from me not knowing what I'm doing Like I initially thought

Engine Noises in aftermarket sound system

Initial Problem: So I drive a 2015 S550 mustang ecoboost manual with the base sound system (4 **** door woofers, 2 tweeters, no sub, no factory amp). I completely redid the sound system I replaced the 4 stock speakers with some nice midrange ones and added a sub. I did this on my own and...

www.caraudio.com

i googled mustang ANC removal and this was the first thing that popped up.

 

[Archer3545]

i googled mustang ANC removal and this was the first thing that popped up.

Yes that's what I did it completely solved my problem supper fast and easy. But properly diagnosing it was hard. So I would google things like engine noises in car audio system and I wouldn't find the right stuff. I mean I might now knowing what I need to look for. But I didn't find anything on ANC potentially causing an issue untill I google engine noises in car audio system when door is closed and I found a link called why does my sound system sound better with the door open and I learned about ANC