Acura TL Alternator Whine - HELP!

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

Sorry, I don't agree. A LOC is used to REDUCE the voltage of an amplified signal to make it more acceptable for an aftermarket amp. The last thing my signal needs is to have its voltage reduced.
I actually just ordered the AudioControl Matrix Plus to BOOST my signal even more before it gets to the amp RCA inputs. That should put me around 4-5 volts (same as an average aftermarket HU). The Matrix accepts the balanced inputs of my HU, and can output an unbalanced signal to work well with amps.

Then there you go. But the loc does raise or lower voltage from the deck that's what they are designed for. But as you might know the cheap ones are usually junk anyway

 

[los33]

I must be confused a bit here as i keep hearing high level..

If these speakers are door comps they are high level speakers as higher levels should be the higher freq.

Also a loc does reduce volt a bit but thats what a amp is suppose to help.. You can either match the preamp or double without hitting clip signals.

Fix your setup. Or buy a loc or aftermarket h/u

 

[Slobalt]

if you have the plug just try it, then lmk if i was wrong

 

[_Frosty_]

I must be confused a bit here as i keep hearing high level..
If these speakers are door comps they are high level speakers as higher levels should be the higher freq.

Also a loc does reduce volt a bit but thats what a amp is suppose to help.. You can either match the preamp or double without hitting clip signals.

Fix your setup. Or buy a loc or aftermarket h/u

if you have the plug just try it, then lmk if i was wrong

High-Level inputs have nothing to do with frequency. It's referring to the high voltage of the signal. Everything is line-level (low voltage) when it comes out of the HU (pre-amp), and is then changed to high-level (high voltage) after it's amplified. It makes no sense to use the high-level input jack on my amp when I'm not providing it with a high-level input. Kapeesh?

 

[tc300 10+ year member]

I would've went with JL CleanSweep on RF 3sixty.3.... Or even audison bit one if I planned to keep factory deck.... You want a good clean signal going to your amp(s)

 

[_Frosty_]

I would've went with JL CleanSweep on RF 3sixty.3.... Or even audison bit one if I planned to keep factory deck.... You want a good clean signal going to your amp(s)

The factory TL HU puts out a perfectly clean signal all the way to max volume (no clipping). It just happens to be balanced, which apparently my amps do not like (despite the claims from Alpine).

 

[tc300 10+ year member]

The factory TL HU puts out a perfectly clean signal all the way to max volume (no clipping). It just happens to be balanced, which apparently my amps do not like (despite the claims from Alpine).

Have you measured that though??

 

[Slobalt]

everything anyone has said has been told they're wrong so fck it

 

[_Frosty_]

Have you measured that though??

I have not personally. But many others have measured it with an oscilloscope, and have posted their results for all to see.

 

[los33]

High-Level inputs have nothing to do with frequency. It's referring to the high voltage of the signal. Everything is line-level (low voltage) when it comes out of the HU (pre-amp), and is then changed to high-level (high voltage) after it's amplified. It makes no sense to use the high-level input jack on my amp when I'm not providing it with a high-level input. Kapeesh?

Kapeesh? Haha common if your amp has high level input then connect your factory speaker output to it and quit struggling so much..

If you know what high level input is used for use it correctly and quit asking for advice when you just answer with your own opinions instead of taking advice...

 

[bumpasauras 10+ year member]

Looks like you are going to have to go after market on the hu.

 

[_Frosty_]

Well boys and girls, the noise is finally gone. And while this fix is not up to my original standards, I am content and done with this project.

Here's the story:

I knew the AudioControl Matrix was intended to be placed as close as possible to the HU, but there simply is not enough room to put it in the passenger kick panel, and I didn't feel like mounting it under the seat. So for testing purposes, I just put it in the trunk with the amps. I tried it on every setting possible, and the noise was not reduced at all (if anything, it was increased on certain settings).

So out of desperation, I removed the Matrix, and just started trying random things. I plugged my iPhone into the RCAs at the passenger kick panel, but ALSO connected it to the car charger. Under these conditions, the noise WAS present with the alternative source (not nearly as bad, but present nonetheless).

This led me to believe that there was, in fact, a ground loop occurring somewhere further down the signal path. For whatever reason, I decided to plug in the PAC SNI-1 ground loop isolator at the passenger kick panel. I tried this $10 device months ago and saw no positive results. But miraculously, it worked this time. I isolated both front channels, and the noise was 95% gone (literally had to put my ear up to the tweeter to hear it). At this time, the gains on my amp were still set for my iPhone. I checked with a DMM, and the amp was putting out 15 volts, while my speakers can take 22.3v. I decided to keep the gains where they were, because I assume that increasing them would make the noise apparent again. Using Ohm's law, my speakers are rated to receive 22.3 volts at 4 ohms (125 watts). Since the amp is only putting out 15 volts at 4 ohms now, the speakers are getting 56 watts.

I'm not thrilled that my speakers are not reaching their full potential in terms of volume, but they still sound incredible, and get VERY loud. And who knows, maybe the GLI would still keep the noise down even at 22.3 volts. I might try that later.

I'll keep this thread updated with any future findings. Thanks for all the advice!