Accent lights on amp work, no power

[Jakeeck 10+ year member]

Now, this is an interesting perspective.
I actually am using inline circuit breakers, not fuses. The fuses didn't seem to have tripped, but the accent lights *do* seem quite dim.

I'll check it out. Thanks! *holding onto hope that the problem lies in the circuit breakers*

also check my edit from the post above if u didnt see it

 

[bigaudiofanatic 10+ year member]

Use a volt meter and use it on the positive and negative power wires that go to the fuse see what you get.

 

[edzy 10+ year member]

read this thread. Same problem and ways to test the amp and what to look for.

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=373926

Im too lazy to retype it.

 

[Jakeeck 10+ year member]

read this thread. Same problem and ways to test the amp and what to look for.
http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=373926

Im too lazy to retype it.

that doesnt look like the same problem.. but even for that guy i would say the same thing.. his amp is powered just a little bit by the HU/RCA connection and his inline fuse by his battery could be blown.

 

[edzy 10+ year member]

well, it was primarily for him to test the amp and in what order..

 

[c_hayhurst 10+ year member]

Use a volt meter and use it on the positive and negative power wires that go to the fuse see what you get.

Now I'm confused. You are referring to a positive and negative wire going into the fuse/circuit breaker.

The fuse/circuit breakers are all inline and are on the positive power wires:

• 
  
  the fuse on the power cable going back to the trunk near the engine battery
  The circuit breaker on the power cable going from the engine battery to the trunk battery- the fuse is close to where the cable is attached to the trunk battery's positive terminal
  a circuit breaker on the power cable going from the positive terminal of the trunk battery to the power terminal of the amp

Should the fuse/circuit breakers been installed differently?

 

[microhaxo 10+ year member]

This is what you DO...

With car running and MUSIC on (amp connected)

1. take a DMM and touch the negative on your ground and the positive on your power line, you should be reading about 13-14 volts. If not then you have a problem with your breaker/fuse. If you do read 13-14 volts move on to #2

2. Take a DMM and touch the negative to the ground and the positive to your REM. You should be reading 12v. If not then CHECK your remote wire off of the deck! If you read 12v then your amp should be working fine.

 

[c_hayhurst 10+ year member]

Figured it out!

The housing for one of the circuit breakers in the trunk got cracked as I was putting in the sub enclosure, which released the spring to keep the circuit open. I could physically hold the breaker shut and the amp got full power, so I know that is what was causing it.

That sucks, but costs about 10% what a new amp would cost.

Yay (kinda)!

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/clap.gif.178cba2c538c68e720c727fcb024b19c.gif

 

[ThatChevyGuy 5,000+ posts]

sweet

 

[Jakeeck 10+ year member]

Figured it out!
The housing for one of the circuit breakers in the trunk got cracked as I was putting in the sub enclosure, which released the spring to keep the circuit open. I could physically hold the breaker shut and the amp got full power, so I know that is what was causing it.

That sucks, but costs about 10% what a new amp would cost.

Yay (kinda)!

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/clap.gif.178cba2c538c68e720c727fcb024b19c.gif

feels good to figure it out eh?