A Few Wiring Questions (Fused Distro Block, Fuses, Etc.)

Z3n
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Hey guys I have a few questions about the wiring I'm going to be doing for my sound system.

BIG 3 UPGRADE

First of all I'm doing the "Big 3 Upgrade" with 0-gauge wire. I'll be using wire from a welding shop as it's cheaper, and the fuse block I'll put in is this one: Raptor 1/0 Gauge ANL Fuse Holder. I'll also put on a negative and positive battery terminal. They both accept ring terminals so it'll work with both 0 gauge and 2 gauge wire (for amp power).

I'm thinking that'll be a good fuse holder, and about 250 or 300 amp fuse?

AMP WIRING

I'll be running 2 gauge wire back to a fused distribution block for that power. That wire is coming from Bomgaars. Woohoo! I'm looking at this fuse holder for right by the battery. Should that be good? It can take a 200 amp fuse, right? So maybe 175?

Then for the fused distribution block. I'm having a problem finding one that accepts 2-gauge wire. One of my amps takes 4 gauge wire while the other takes 8 gauge, so I'm looking at this block.

It takes 1/0 gauge wire. Do you think 2 gauge wire would work with it? And it looks as if I can have a fuse for the 8 gauge and a fuse for the 4 gauge.

Thanks all I can think of right now. I might have more later, but thanks for any input guys!

 
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you really should see what your amp requires for fuses you cant just throw anything you want one them 2 gauge will work in a 0 gauge input shoot even 4 will work but you can get a better fuse block from someone here cheaper and better than that garbage block your trying to get

 
you really should see what your amp requires for fuses you cant just throw anything you want one them 2 gauge will work in a 0 gauge input shoot even 4 will work but you can get a better fuse block from someone here cheaper and better than that garbage block your trying to get
agreed but the scosche block is nice but these fuse holders are better

 
If thats your choice to buy,It seems like to me that it will work just fine for you ,even a 150 amp inline fuse to the block,and make sure to put the proper fuse for the amps rating that they call for,and you will be just fine.

 
Question here, would it be feasible to make my own ring terminals with some copper tubing? I saw the idea on a Canadian car audio forum and I thought it looked viable. 1/0 Gauge ring terminal are $6 a pair for cheapo ones, and I don't really feel like spending that much. And I'm having a terrible time finding 2 gauge ring terminals, so would using copper tubing and forming my own work?

 
not sure what amps you are using, but if both of them have fuses in their chassis, you do not need a fused distribution block. you can save yourself some money and get a simple non-fused distribution block, unless you really want that voltage display. a common misconception is that fuses protect the amp. that is not the case - they are there in case of a short in the amp, it stops massive current draw from heating up and causing a fire in the power wires. as far as the fusing itself, at the battery, make sure to fuse for the wire capacity. a good rule of thumb - choose a value somewhere between the total value of all amp fuses and the wire capacity itself. i don't recall off hand how many amps a 2awg cable can safely handle at lengths of 15 - 20 feet, but lets say if its 200amps, make sure its 200 or less. if your total amps fuse values are lets say 150 amps, then the value of the fuse at the battery should be between 150 - 200 amps.

 
I understand the concept that fuses protect the wire not the actual amp. I've done a lot of studying up on the different aspects of wiring and general car audio as this is my first ever sound system. :p

2 AWG is 200 amps max fuse, and my two amps are 120 and 30 amps so I probably want to go a bit over 150, thinking around 175?

 
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