A couple of questions.

Tis true. I feel guilty all over again (this is a daily experience, every time there's a wide bass sweep and my doors rattle like a ****ing baby toy //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif)

 
Maybe someone else can chime in. I've only got experience with a few amps - my last purchase was an Eclipse EA3422 that was ~230$ new. I'd have a hard time recommending it since i replaced it because i wanted more power //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif It was a very clean amp though //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif Got the germs kickin'....just not loud enough for my tastes.

 
kicker 650.4 or 850.4... those will be certainly enough power. my dad got his kx850.4 on ebay for 230 brand new (previous year model) so anythings possible

the 850.4 is rated at 175 x 4 and like 325 x 2 bridged but tests out even higher, good luck

 
What do you guys recommend for sealing my doors that's also cheap? In my old truck I spent over $600 dynamating it and I felt like I should have been able to do it for a lot cheaper.

 
I used Lexan sheets that I cut to fit, then epoxied to the door panel...deadened over that. Makes it as airtight as it's going to get.

If you used Dynamat, then yeah, you could have done it for a lot cheaper //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif RAAMmat is a better value...

 
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