A couple of questions before I buy my system.

jeremiah215

Junior Member
Ok. I have a 2008 Toyota 4Runner. I read a lot of threads with people asking do they need to upgrade their alternator or battery with their current setup. I can see why they ask because they're setting up 2000w setups they consume a lot of energy. In my case I'm not doing that. Here's some of the items I will be buying for my system.

Battery: Kinetik HC1200; 1200 Cranking Amps

Subs (two of them): Alpine SWS-12D4; 500 rms each

Amp: RE Audio DTX-2000.1; 1000w amp

Stereo: Kenwood DPX500BT

4 Gauge wiring--

I'm not sure if i will be getting new speakers because I've heard the new head unit will improve the quality of the sound better than the Stock head unit. So I'll test it out with stock and if I don't like it I'll buy new ones.

I'm going a bit over the top with the battery because I read a lot of forums with people saying their headlights are dimming and whatnot, so I thought going with a battery with more power would cover that issue. But with the battery being of that power, do I need to upgrade my alternator? I'm never going to play my system with the engine off because I'm scared my car won't start or something. I'm also going to wire the "Big 3" because I want to make sure everything is perfect with this setup. Also, does 500 rms subs hit good? I'm not going for competition status, I just want nice sound as I'm driving to school or going somewhere. How many wiring kits do I need for this setup?

 
You'll need one wiring kit. Get a good kit, knukonceptz has a nice 4 gauge kit on ebay for 32 bucks shipped. I highly doubt you'll need a ho alt even if you decide to add a mids/highs amp. If this is your first system, and the subs are in a proper ported box, then they'll most likely be plenty for you. Get a volt meter, you can get one that plugs into your cig lighter for like 4 bucks on ebay, and once you get everything installed see if you have any voltage drop.

 
Ok. I have a 2008 Toyota 4Runner. I read a lot of threads with people asking do they need to upgrade their alternator or battery with their current setup. I can see why they ask because they're setting up 2000w setups they consume a lot of energy. In my case I'm not doing that. Here's some of the items I will be buying for my system.
Battery: Kinetik HC1200; 1200 Cranking Amps

Subs (two of them): Alpine SWS-12D4; 500 rms each

Amp: RE Audio DTX-2000.1; 1000w amp

Stereo: Kenwood DPX500BT

4 Gauge wiring--

I'm not sure if i will be getting new speakers because I've heard the new head unit will improve the quality of the sound better than the Stock head unit. So I'll test it out with stock and if I don't like it I'll buy new ones.

I'm going a bit over the top with the battery because I read a lot of forums with people saying their headlights are dimming and whatnot, so I thought going with a battery with more power would cover that issue. But with the battery being of that power, do I need to upgrade my alternator? I'm never going to play my system with the engine off because I'm scared my car won't start or something. I'm also going to wire the "Big 3" because I want to make sure everything is perfect with this setup. Also, does 500 rms subs hit good? I'm not going for competition status, I just want nice sound as I'm driving to school or going somewhere. How many wiring kits do I need for this setup?
for that amount of power, just get a good wiring kit, 0ga if you can get one but a GOOD 4ga kit will be fine. also do a big 3 upgrade and get a dencent battery, i would just add that battery in back before your amp. you shouldnt have any voltage problems with that amp on a stock alt. adding the xtra batt should take care of it

 
So do I replace my stock battery or do I put bot in my car?

 

---------- Post added at 01:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:36 PM ----------

 

for that amount of power, just get a good wiring kit, 0ga if you can get one but a GOOD 4ga kit will be fine. also do a big 3 upgrade and get a dencent battery, i would just add that battery in back before your amp. you shouldnt have any voltage problems with that amp on a stock alt. adding the xtra batt should take care of it
So do I replace my stock battery or do I put bot in my car?

 
So do I replace my stock battery or do I put bot in my car? 

---------- Post added at 01:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:36 PM ----------

 

So do I replace my stock battery or do I put bot in my car?
i would leave your stock battery under the good then add a 2nd battery in the back. Just run your power wire from the front battery to your 2nd battery, then run the 2nd battery to the amp. make sure you ground the battery in back to the vehicle as well. this way having the front battery still there will be more geared toward power you car stuff, like lights etc, and the bank will help keep the amp happy as well.

 
Change out the apline subs for pioneer champion pros and the RE amp for a belva as they are rebadged RE's anyways and way cheaper.
I checked out the subs you mentioned and the pioneer champion pron subs are expensive and I'm not going for 1000w subs. I've seen some pioneer subs that had 400w rms. Will the 100w rms drop be critical as far as hitting nice. Again, I'm not going for competition level, just something that sounds really nice.

 
You don't need a second battery for a 1,000W RMS amplifier. When the engine is running the alternator is powering the vehicle, not the battery. Unless your vehicle has a very small alternator there is no reason it can't handle that amplifier, even if it's wired to 1 ohm. With a normal variety of commercially produced music you will rarely be approaching the potential of the amplifier. Do the Big 3 and ground the amplifier and the battery to the frame.

A 4 ga OFC power wire kit is adequate. A normal amplifier installation kit does not contain everything you need to both install the amplifier and do the Big 3. You'll need more power wire and some matching ring terminals. How many terminals depends on how the wire is terminated at the battery. You should also install an inline fuse holder between the alternator and the battery.

 
You don't need a second battery for a 1,000W RMS amplifier. When the engine is running the alternator is powering the vehicle, not the battery. Unless your vehicle has a very small alternator there is no reason it can't handle that amplifier, even if it's wired to 1 ohm. With a normal variety of commercially produced music you will rarely be approaching the potential of the amplifier. Do the Big 3 and ground the amplifier and the battery to the frame.
A 4 ga OFC power wire kit is adequate. A normal amplifier installation kit does not contain everything you need to both install the amplifier and do the Big 3. You'll need more power wire and some matching ring terminals. How many terminals depends on how the wire is terminated at the battery. You should also install an inline fuse holder between the alternator and the battery.
Could you tell me exactly what kits and power wire kits to get? I want to make sure I have everything before i even start to hook it up. And what gauge should i use for the big 3 ?

 
I'd get 0 gauge for the big 3 and the amp, overkill is good. You don't really need OFC wire, you'd be better off going with 0 gauge cca than 4 gauge ofc.

Get this

Copper Clad Aluminum

and 10-12ft of 1/0 and like 10 ring terminals and you should be good.

 
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