93' Corolla Sub/Amp draining battery??

[cl0udnyn3]

So I have a 1993 Toyota corolla with stock everything on it. Its a 1.8L 110HP motor and seems to do everything else fine, other than power my amp and sub.

I installed the system about 2 days ago and ever since then, when I run the amp and sub, it kills my battery within 30 minutes of use. I have everything wired up correctly, its not grounding out or shorting anywhere. I have good resistance on all paths of travel.

Its not running when the car is shut off, my head unit didn't have a remote amp wire, so I just used the ignition wire and it works fine. I also tested the unit to make sure that the amp wasn't running in the off position. The bass is strong and sounds good, but my amp and sub kind of flicker after about 20 - 30 and when I shut the car off the battery is too dead to even make the starter click.

What steps should I take to alleviate this issue? Is it my alternator? Or my battery? Any help is greatly appreciated!!

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[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

What amp?What Sub?What Ohm load?What kind of Battery you have?Size of Power wiring?Ground Wiring?

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

So I have a 1993 Toyota corolla with stock everything on it. Its a 1.8L 110HP motor and seems to do everything else fine, other than power my amp and sub.
I installed the system about 2 days ago and ever since then, when I run the amp and sub, it kills my battery within 30 minutes of use. I have everything wired up correctly, its not grounding out or shorting anywhere. I have good resistance on all paths of travel.

Its not running when the car is shut off, my head unit didn't have a remote amp wire, so I just used the ignition wire and it works fine. I also tested the unit to make sure that the amp wasn't running in the off position. The bass is strong and sounds good, but my amp and sub kind of flicker after about 20 - 30 and when I shut the car off the battery is too dead to even make the starter click.

What steps should I take to alleviate this issue? Is it my alternator? Or my battery? Any help is greatly appreciated!!

Sounds like you already need to upgrade your alt maybe.(At Min)-Two good AGM batteries,Big 3 needed,and you might get by with the largest Stock alternator over the counter,and you can do fairly well with that on most vehicles for car audio additions,up to 2k

 

[cl0udnyn3]

Its an xa-2250 Jensen amp. Not sure about the woofer, I know its only a 12" 300wt woofer. I believe it might be a clarion. Not sure what "Ohm Load" is? I have a standard 12 volt, 600 CCA car battery; Duralast to be exact. Power wiring is 8 Gauge, and ground is 8 Gauge. Grounded at a good spot under a seat mount. When I do use the amp, I keep the power setting around a little less than half because the woofer can't handle all 500 watts.

 

[cl0udnyn3]

If thats the case, are you saying I can EITHER get a new alternator OR add additional batteries? Or do I need to do both? As far as alternator specs and battery specs, what would you recommend?

 

[AL210]

Do you have a DMM? If so measure the voltage at your batt with the car running.

 

[audiobaun 5,000+ posts]

First thing Id do, is go get that Alt checked out, and battery.May have to pull that alt off to get it tested in a machine at most auto parts stores to test it out properly.Orileys carries a Decent AGM Super Start Plat battery that does excellent for power needs.After you get both tested out, Id look into getting an AGM battery,and do the Big 3 min,in which may be all you need for what you are running.Get those tested out..Most places will do for FREE,like Orileys/Auto Zone,before ruling out either.Id deff be looking at getting an AGM batt, and getting the big three done first after testing the two.There is a You Tube vid on the Big 3.Watch that/check it out.

 

[AL210]

Your amp is only capable of 350 watts ( probably actually less) bridged at 4 ohms. Do you have your sub hooked up as bridged? You need to measure the sub to make sure it's not less than 4 ohms for bridge mode or you may damage that amp. Your stock electrical should be able to run that no problem with your 8 gauge power wiring. I suspect your alt and or battery are weak.

 

[cloudnyn3]

Ok, so I really appreciate all of the answers. I had the Alt and battery tested. Advance said they were both strong, I was pushing 13.5 volts at 1700 RPM and 12.9 at idle. The wire used to connect the alternator to the battery is pretty small, probably something like 15 or 16 gauge -_-'

I'm going to go ahead and do the "Big 3" and see if that helps any, I think my system is killing my battery because its not getting charged fast enough. Its so weak I noticed that if I turn my brights on my cars spark is hindered and RPM's will drop. They said my alt was good but it might be too small.

Does anyone recommend any good alternators?

Also, Would 1 AMG deep cycle battery suffice for a small setup like this? or should I keep my current and buy an AMG and run something like 4 gauge to my trunk? There is no room under the hood.

As far as being in bridged mode? I'm not sure, my sub is hooked up to the screw terminals and my headunit is hooked up Via RCA cables which go into my low frequency input. It has two more RCA that say "Pass". There is a high input but its got a six port computer like connector. Like I said I had the system working well, just not long enough to enjoy it lol Sorry, if I don't understand the terminology, I'm new to this =P

 

[Sleeklsc 5,000+ posts]

12.9 at idle is pretty low. I'd start with the b3.

 

[AL210]

I had the Alt and battery tested. Advance said they were both strong, I was pushing 13.5 volts at 1700 RPM and 12.9 at idle. The wire used to connect the alternator to the battery is pretty small, probably something like 15 or 16 gauge -_-'

I believe the stock alternator on that is like 80 amps. I highly doubt that the alternator wire is only 16 gauge.