65' Mustang Coupe High-End Install HELP

[AltarCrystal 10+ year member]

I'm a full-time college student, and don't want to waste 2000 on a legitimate system, all the current stereo has is ONE tiny speaker that you cant even hear over the road-noise at 60 mph, so A: **** You, and B: Thanks for absolutely no help whatsoever, assholes.
If anyone has any ACTUAL help, rather than stupid, irrelevant, comments, please help me out.

We;re talling you the truth man. That stuff is trash, and all you're doing is ruining an awsome vehicle. Hell, as a Mustang-Man myself, I'm kinda pissed!

Seriously, please reconcider...everything in that list.

Or don't ever lay a finger on that car...ever.

 

[CaliforniabOY5 10+ year member]

wonder if he will post ever again......

 

[Scavallo 10+ year member]

I know Pyramid is a shitty brand but I picked up the entire system - minus the subs - for a around $300. Amps, 6x9's, 6.5's, and tweeters all included. I OBVIOUSLY didn't pay full MSRP for them, whichever idiot said that. I'm not completely stupid.

Im on a budget for God's sake, I'm only 19, I have insurance payments, rent, food, books, and on top of that I have tuition fees coming up this fall. I didn't know about this particular forum until after I had already purchased everything, so I obviously would have taken a different route had I known that.

Blitz 1400w amp - MSRP - $224.91 - bought for - $53.71

Blitz 1600w amp - MSRP - $243.81 - bought for - $69.63

Pyramid 6x9's - MSRP - $39.95 - bought for - $17.95

Pyramid 6.5's - MSRP - $49.95 - bought for - $24.95

Pyramid tweeters - MSRP - $25.95 - bought for $9.95

Boss HU - MSRP -$250.00 - bought for 127.83 EDIT - The MSRP of this is actually $389.00

Give a person a chance before you just go bashing on them for no reason, I know the High-End part was a little off, but hey, whatever. I just want something that is going to sound better than the ridiculously small speaker now, which I cant even hear over the road noise, and I'm pretty sure no matter how crappy the speakers are they will sound 1000% better than whats there now.

The kick panels I purchased carry the factory design lines, but just have a elevated speaker mount to make room, the 6x9s will be under the perforated rear shelf, out of sight, and the subs are going in a no-show sealed box that will either be covered in the factory checkered matting, or I'm going to make a faux-floor for the amps to go under, with the same no-show box, and cover it all in a black carpeting.

Ive checked the VIN, about the only thing its got going for it was it was produced in Cali, and it was a first-gen car in the 65 model year.

Ive had the thing for 6 years now so I don't need anyone telling me what not to do to it. Though, the spoiler line was KIND OF funny.

I mean Jesus-Tap-Dancing-Christ, all I asked for was a little help and all I got, SO FAR, is 4 pages of ridicule. So, PLEASE stop ridiculing the brand (its shitty, I GET IT ALREADY), and just help me out by answering the questions. I know what I'm doing with the interior(look at the pictures), but what I don't know is what I'm doing with just about anything other than what electrical shit I already have in there now. Ive never installed a after-market system.

Whoever asked about cutting into the dash, I can assure you that will never happen, because its original, though I did take it to a local shop which wanted to do just that.

Once I make all the connections I can just replace one component at a time with an ACTUAL high-end system. I listen to music 24/7, and this is just a quick fix. Like none of you have ever been guilty of that, hypocrites.

Anyway, here are a few pictures,

 

[CrazedCat 10+ year member]

Man that is clean...great looking ride! Throw the crap in there now for a quick fix, finish school, get a good job...THEN put a real system in that. Good luck!

 

[Scavallo 10+ year member]

Holy POOP! A guy who actually complemented me, thank you sir! You sir, are a logical thinker! Once again thank you. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[Twistid 5,000+ posts]

Man that is clean...great looking ride! Throw the crap in there now for a quick fix, finish school, get a good job...THEN put a real system in that. Good luck!

x2

work with what you have, once you start getting some money in or get student loans/scholarships just swap out the crap with quality equipment, since wires/install/kickpanels will already be done...

nice car too, not to sure how its going to be a reliable daily driver for a student though considering its age and gas mileage... but you might be able to pick up some sorority hotties //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif

 

[CaliforniabOY5 10+ year member]

If you wanted a forum to compliment just for being "nice" this isn't the forum for you........ we are hypercritical forum //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif want nice? carstereo.com sounds for you........ but yes very nice stang'!

 

[Twistid 5,000+ posts]

also you can mount the cd player underneath the dash, just get a cage for it, that uses screws on the underside of the dash so it wont be such a noticeable blemish... thats what most people use for classic lowriders that dont want to cut a big ugly nonfactory hole in the dash...

also be carefull with running the power wires and whatnot, dont want to go start cuttin holes in places to fit the wire through... if need be you can always run it under the car

 

[theothermike 10+ year member]

this isnt a debate about the radio, its a debate about:

why a 70 - 71 chevelle or 69 camaro is the true american classic in that age group =].

im j/p.

nice car man, but imo, i think u shouldnt be here. if u have a muscle car / hotrod u want to hear 2 things, the engine, and the exhaust.

dont waste ur time with a stereo if u cant afford a decent one. with that nice of a car, id spend it on some more toys for it.

however, if u could cough up a bit of cash, id put a radio in then. lets say 1g?

gl to u, ignore ******* remarks on flaming, some are not as well off as others, and some dont get money from parents for college.

But im in highschool so check-it!!!!!!!

mike-

 

[mokedaddy 5,000+ posts]

Since you are now seeing what you have for what it is here is a little help.

All that being said I have a few questions:

1. Is there any website or link that will have a generic, or detailed, description of what I need to do in order to make this work; basically meaning how to connect the amps to the battery (I have all the wiring/fuses). Im pretty sure I know how to connect one amp up but I have no idea how to connect two.

Since you are using an older vehicle with only one speaker I suggest you start by running all new wires. Speakers wires run from the amp to the kicks and the rear deck. I would get constant power and accessory power from the ignition column for the radio. As far as the amps I would run 4 ga power wire to the trunk of the vehicle and use a distribution block. Then run as many rca's to the back as your radio has outputs. (you may need to use splitters for the rcas) and a remote wire off of the deck. Then connect power/ ground wires to the amps and hook up speakers

2. Am I going to be able to use the 4 channel amp to power all the smaller speakers (the total wattage of the 6 speakers adds up to 400(6x9)+400(6x9)+150 (tweeter)+150(tweeter) +240(6.5")+240(6.5)=1580w total. I'm not planning on turning the volume up that loud ever but who knows.

For what you are trying to do this is not possible. Also wattage ratings on those speakers do not mean anything.

3. Will I be able to use the tweeters and 6.5's like a component system without having to buy the little box thing? If so, how will I connect the tweeters, 6.5's and 6x9's (6 total connections, with only 4 channels being available)

IF you want the 6.5s and tweeters to play off one channel you will need x-overs.

4. Will I be able to still use the stock radio, but also use the upgraded one, possibly adding a switch or something to go back and forth between the two for car shows and whatnot, or even just being able to use them both at the same time. And if THATS possible how do I connect both units to the whatever power source is powering them.

No dont even try to do this as you will most likely just mess something up. Why would you want to do this anyways? If you want control at your fingertips either mount the deck under the dash or get a cd player with a remote.

5. I'm planning on using the cap on the subwoofer amp only, however, is it capable of storing power for both? If so, how is this connection made?

Yes you can but more often than not a cap will hurt a system more than it will help

6. Will I need to upgrade the alternator? It is currently powering the normal, stock components of the car. I can not find the model # or any other information, besides the brand (Motorcraft), on it, its not on the casing, and I don't have the box(sorry, I know this first part of the question is probably unanswerable). Also, the current one uses an alternator regulator, can I remove that, or buy a different one that is a higher rating, to compensate, instead of buying an entire new alternator? Or can I buy another battery and make a connection so that the alternator is powering both batteries?

First try a good aftermarket battery than if your lights continue to dim than you may want to look at a high output alternator.

7. Do you see any other problems I might encounter?

As far as installation problems there will most likely be some kinks and some troubleshooting but the only way to figure it out is with experience.

I'm sorry for the length of this, but Ive spent nearly all the money Ive earned so far this summer on this system and I really want it to work well, look professionally done, sound great, and not burn any more holes in my pockets.

I'm also having a ton of trouble trying to find accurate specs for the Pyramid subs, such as recommended Cu3 for a sealed enclosure. Plus, there is barely enough room in the trunk for the only recommendation I did find which was 1.5 Cu3. However, this spec was written on a rinky-dink website that I'm not sure is credible.

1.5 cubes should be fine for those. just remember that is internal volume of the box per sub.

Engine Specs for the vehicle:

1965 Mustang Coupe (Produced in California)

200ci straight-6 coupled to a 3 speed cruise-o-matic.

ANY questions, suggestions, or installs that you have previously done, whatsoever please feel free to e-mail me.

Thank you in advance,

Skyler Cavallo //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fro.gif.c695f1f814b01c4ad99fe7f8cccadd29.gif

 

[Scavallo 10+ year member]

Thank you MokeDaddy! Anyone else have anything to add here are the ?'s again.

Thank you, thank you, the under-dash idea wont work because under the dash is just empty space (simplicity: the beauty of classic cars). As for wanting to listen the engine rather than the sound I agree with you 100%, however, the only engine noise that I listen to is that, deep, rich, rumble (not) of a 200ci straight-six. If I had, say, a 289, a 351, or a K-Code car, first off I wouldn't be touching one bit out of the originality spectrum, and secondly the engine notes would be all the music I would need.

That being said, this car is "technically" my daily driver, but I drive it approximately once a month to keep everything in order (I'm starting to wear out the welcome of bumming rides). Full engine resto earlier last summer, which was badly needed, and since a total of 2,000 miles has been logged.

But back to everything I originally asked, can anyone answer this stuff or not?

1. Is there any website or link that will have a generic, or detailed, description of what I need to do in order to make this work; basically meaning how to connect the amps to the battery (I have all the wiring/fuses). Im pretty sure I know how to connect one amp up but I have no idea how to connect two.

2. Will I be able to use the tweeters and 6.5's like a component system without having to buy the crossover box? If so, how will I connect the tweeters, 6.5's and 6x9's (6 total connections, with only 4 channels being available)

3. Will I be able to still use the stock radio, but also use the upgraded one, possibly adding a switch or something to go back and forth between the two for car shows (though I haven't yet entered one) and whatnot, or even just being able to use them both at the same time. And if THATS possible how do I connect both units to the whatever power source is powering them.

5. I'm planning on using the cap on the subwoofer amp only, however, is it capable of storing power for both? If so, how is this connection made?

6. Will I need to upgrade the alternator? It is currently powering the normal, stock components of the car. I can not find the model # or any other information, besides the brand (Motorcraft), on it, its not on the casing, and I don't have the box anymore(sorry, I know this first part of the question is probably unanswerable). Also, the current one uses an alternator regulator, can I remove that, or buy a different one that is a higher rating, to compensate, instead of buying an entire new alternator? Or can I buy another battery and make a connection so that the alternator is powering both batteries?

7. Can I use the Boss head unit to power only the 6.5's and the tweeters, while the 1400w amp powers the 6x9's, and with that can I use the left over 600w's, in correspondence (possibly bridging, though I don't know how to do that) with the 1600w amp too? That would have the total wattage going to th two 12's at 1100w's each, 100w's below the 1200w peak, the 6x9's full powered at 400w's each, and the 6.5's and the tweeters powered at approximately 100w's each.

8. Do you see any other problems I might encounter?

And California, get off my back man, I can handle ridicule, but 4 pages worth without one legitimate answer to any of these questions is ridiculous.

Thanks ahead of time,

Skyler

 

[bds0688 10+ year member]

Original classic cars are worth a lot. Just an I6 with an auto, but bone stock. If all the engine and ****** numbers match with the VIN, then it could be worth a pretty good penny to the right person.

Clean car. Long as the stuff serves a purpose to hold you over, all is well.

 

[Scavallo 10+ year member]

A couple more pics

1. Door Panel

2. Engine Bay

3. Top View Engine (All correct stickers)

4. 1965 miles, was going 65 too //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[Scavallo 10+ year member]

and a few more

1. Side View

2. Straighter lines than when it came off the factory floor //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

3. Side view engine, don't know why it came out blurry

4. Trunk (in the back up against the seat is where the sub box will be, not very much room, 5590 cu3 and I need 5184 cu3 for both speakers)

 

[Flipx99 5,000+ posts]

But back to everything I originally asked, can anyone answer this stuff or not?

1. Is there any website or link that will have a generic, or detailed, description of what I need to do in order to make this work; basically meaning how to connect the amps to the battery (I have all the wiring/fuses). Im pretty sure I know how to connect one amp up but I have no idea how to connect two.

Yes. http://www.bcae1.com. Very good and useful info. You can PM me for info about your specific car

2. Will I be able to use the tweeters and 6.5's like a component system without having to buy the crossover box? If so, how will I connect the tweeters, 6.5's and 6x9's (6 total connections, with only 4 channels being available)

A componet system typically comes with a passive crossover. I assume you are using a spacer to fit the 6x9s in the package tray as they don't fit under normal circumstances. You can hook the front two channels to the crossover, which will distribute the power to the mid and tweeter. Use the rear channels for the 6x9s. Run all new wiring.

3. Will I be able to still use the stock radio, but also use the upgraded one, possibly adding a switch or something to go back and forth between the two for car shows (though I haven't yet entered one) and whatnot, or even just being able to use them both at the same time. And if THATS possible how do I connect both units to the whatever power source is powering them.

It is possible using a switch. I would not waste my time with it. If the radio is new, it probably only carries AM stations (FM was rare option).

5. I'm planning on using the cap on the subwoofer amp only, however, is it capable of storing power for both? If so, how is this connection made?

Don't use the cap.

6. Will I need to upgrade the alternator? It is currently powering the normal, stock components of the car. I can not find the model # or any other information, besides the brand (Motorcraft), on it, its not on the casing, and I don't have the box anymore(sorry, I know this first part of the question is probably unanswerable). Also, the current one uses an alternator regulator, can I remove that, or buy a different one that is a higher rating, to compensate, instead of buying an entire new alternator? Or can I buy another battery and make a connection so that the alternator is powering both batteries?

You can buy a higher amperage alternator. I am unsure if the equipment you are running will require it. jegs/summit racing will carry one for your application.

7. Can I use the Boss head unit to power only the 6.5's and the tweeters, while the 1400w amp powers the 6x9's, and with that can I use the left over 600w's, in correspondence (possibly bridging, though I don't know how to do that) with the 1600w amp too? That would have the total wattage going to th two 12's at 1100w's each, 100w's below the 1200w peak, the 6x9's full powered at 400w's each, and the 6.5's and the tweeters powered at approximately 100w's each.

No tweeter I ever heard sounded good at 100w. See the suggestion above.