5 cubes @ 34 hz *PICS* gloss black?

[Immacomputer 10+ year member]

You have plenty of clearance. What subs are you going to be running?

Buy two of these and you won't have to worry about them hitting the trunk:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=260-443

 

[SlickCMRick 10+ year member]

they are type r's

 

[SHiZNiLTi 10+ year member]

3rd coat of primer and it's not soaking in anymore, I think its gonna be an excellent surface to apply my Gloss Black Wood Lacquer. I'm gonna do another coat of primer tonight and then tomorrow after work I will debate what I should do...

1. Just Start Applying the Gloss Black Wood Lacquer then sand after the 1st coat
    
   or
    
    
   
2. Sand the Primer with 230-320 grit and then start applying the Gloss Black Lacquer
   

 

[PowerNaudio 10+ year member]

sand with the 230-320 and then with a 400grit. it makes a world of diffrence. i had to paint my pods twice because you could still see the scrashes from the 320 grit paper.

here is a link to the pods im talking about. my finish sanding was 400grit before painting.

when you sand with the 400grit it should look gloosy. like if youre polishing the part more then sanding. if you want an even better look then sand with 600grit. as your final sanding before the painting. that will realy bring a shine to it.

here is the link scroll all the way down.

laters

PS: that enclosure is looking hella good.

i was looking at the pics of the box in the vehicle and it looks like the clearance you have between the trunk and the box. is not = or > then the port width. so if i was you i would find a way to fix that, if not the enclosure its not going to perform to its designed potential. it will still sound ok, just not as good as it should.

just my two cents.

later

 

[FOSGATE JOE 10+ year member]

nice

 

[ruger 10+ year member]

nice box, cant wait to see the final product.

 

[SHiZNiLTi 10+ year member]

sand with the 230-320 and then with a 400grit. it makes a world of diffrence. i had to paint my pods twice because you could still see the scrashes from the 320 grit paper.
when you sand with the 400grit it should look gloosy. like if youre polishing the part more then sanding. if you want an even better look then sand with 600grit. as your final sanding before the painting. that will realy bring a shine to it.

here is the link scroll all the way down.

laters

PS: that enclosure is looking hella good.

I was looking at the pics of the box in the vehicle and it looks like the clearance you have between the trunk and the box. is not = or > then the port width. so if i was you i would find a way to fix that, if not the enclosure its not going to perform to its designed potential. it will still sound ok, just not as good as it should.

just my two cents.

later

Thanks for the usefull info and input on my project. I will take your advice on

what type of sand paper to use before I paint. After I get all the paint on there

tonight, tommorow I will will spray some clear on it and wetsand it to a mirror like

finish then do a nice buff on it with some mequires 1500 grit polish. The final

project I'm hoping should be like looking into a black mirror //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

I've also notice that my clearance is pretty short between the rear hatch and the

air port, but I only had the box placed like that in the pics on page 1 for viewing

purposes only. I'm actually gonna have my box facing forwards which will give

me more then adequate space between the rear seats and the air port, plus I

can fold the seats down if I wish. I know, I know "you lose some output" is what

everyone says, but in 2dr blazer like mine I actaully think it sounds much better

from the inside and ouside of the car after doing extensisve testing....

I've got about 200sq. ft. of dynamat xtreme installed on the rear hatch, rear sides

and roof and with the subs facing forwards I get absolutly no rattels from the

outside of the vehicle which I think is freaking sweet //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif The only thing that

makes some noise is the rear hatch window, but Im working on a fix for that.

 

[supa_c 5,000+ posts]

Told you it would soak that primer up //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Do what powerNaudio said, you want to remove all orange peel so your surface is nice and smooth.

 

[SHiZNiLTi 10+ year member]

Told you it would soak that primer up //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gifDo what powerNaudio said, you want to remove all orange peel so your surface is nice and smooth.

LOL, hell ya it did. It took the entire quart of primer. For sure, no orange peel preped surface FTW

 

[Safe-N-Sound215 10+ year member]

Did you use spray primer and flat black spray or gloss spray, nice sub //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif Rockford amp?
After a few more coats of this wood primer I'm using it should give me a nice finish to start painting on. All my cut edges of the mdf have been treated with wood filler and sanded down so I shouldn't have in varations of the final coats.

Yeah, I use spray primer(gray). I put two coats of primer, sanded(didn't do a good enough job), and then 4 coats of semi gloss spray. Just don't try to get it all on in the first coat. Give it a light coat first and then follow up until it's covered the way you want it.

 

[SHiZNiLTi 10+ year member]

So I started sanding the primer that I laid on the box last night and it seemed as if it wasn't cured yet, even after one entire day of drying, weird huh. Kinda felt soft like if I pushed my finger nail into it, it would leave an impression.

I'm gonna let it dry all day, but this time have it outside on my back porch so it can get some sun then try sanding again tommorow.

 

[PowerNaudio 10+ year member]

i had the same issue ones with a project, i had bought the wrong kind of primer. it cured to a soft non sandable surface. wich i had to strip off. even thougn it said on the can that was sandable. the best primer even for woods. is the automotive high build primer. i ended up using thi one from home depot, is the rust-oleum brand "automobile primer for the ultimate finish"

let that one cure for as long as needed. if its too cold out side or humind put a heat lamp to it. or even a low power heat gun. to speed the curing prosses.

good luck.

laters

 

[Immacomputer 10+ year member]

I stained a test piece of wood to see how many coats it would take before not absorbing anymore and when I stopped, it did the same thing. It was sticky and wouldn't dry, even after 2 days. I tried just putting polyurethane on it and that dried just fine and was sandable. The test piece ended up looking better than my enclosure.

 

[SHiZNiLTi 10+ year member]

I stained a test piece of wood to see how many coats it would take before not absorbing anymore and when I stopped, it did the same thing. It was sticky and wouldn't dry, even after 2 days. I tried just putting polyurethane on it and that dried just fine and was sandable. The test piece ended up looking better than my enclosure.

Hmm this sucks, I hate waiting, but I guess perfection takes time. I have a feeling this sanding sealer/primer still isn't going to be dried when I come home tonight //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

This sanding sealer/primer I bought is not what I thought it would be like. I figured that after 1-2 days I could start sanding it down with 400 grit then work up to 1000 grit and it would sand off and create a white powder indicating it's getting smoothed out. Right now it's just like sanding a soft enamel and doesnt sand smooth when I run my fingers over it and I can feel small pieces rolling into little soft goohey like balls under the sand paper. Good thinig I just test sanded a portion of the side of the box and didn't sand too deep before I realized what was happening.

Immacomputer, so if I just get some plain polyurethane and apply a few coats of that on the box It should be a much better sandable surface right? When you sanded the polyurethane did it sand off in a nice fine powder after it was cured?

I'll try sanding the other side of the box tonight with some 1000 grit and see if it can remove the light brush lines. If I still feel like it's too soft to properly sand then I will apply thr polyurethane like you did.

*sigh* I should have just stuck with my original purchase of the spray primer made for wood instead of this brush on sandable sealer/primer crap...

 

[SHiZNiLTi 10+ year member]

Sanding went well tonight, it just needed another day to dry and with using 400 grit everything smoothed out real well.

This is the 1st light coat of black lacquer, 3 more coats to go then clear and wetsand clear...