2200-2500w RMS.....One YT G31 be sufficient?

ok, so to put a battery in the trunk, i would need an isolator. where can i buy or research isolators?
I was always told you need an isolator but no one on my team uses one and never had any problems //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif the yt never caused a problem with our starter batteries.

 
but i thought if you dont run an isolator, you are draining power from both batteries. instead of just the one in the rear. if you happen to spend a couple hours playing your system without the car running, doesn't that present a problem when it comes time to start the engine back up?

 
Necessary - no. But it would help with supplying current in a hurry to that amp when it needs it. I would suggest adding a 2nd battery as the next step if the first step doesn't work well enough for you.

I would try just upgrading the main battery to that big yellowtop and do the big 3 first. It will be a severe improvement for available current over stock and will allow you much more time to bump with the engine off, if you ever decide to.

 
Maybe what i will do is get a YT 34 and put it in the trunk. Wire it up and use an isolator. Now, how do i go about running the second battery? Can i do a daisy chain, alt to battery to battery, or should i run two separate runs of 1/0 from the alt to each battery? and also, where would the isolator come into play here? or is it even needed.

 
So, according to that diagram, i don't have to use an isolator? All i have to do is wire in-line fuses on the power wire close to BOTH batteries. That shouldn't be to difficult. Now, do i have to fuse the AMP power wire, between the second battery and the amplifier? Thanks for the link!

 
i will probably end up running two batteries, with the info i have heard in this thread. so, i will be getting a YT 31 for in the trunk, and i will keep my stock battery under the hood. I just need to know if i need to fuse the wire between the second cell and the amplifier? in the diagram above, there is no fuse there. but, in any install i have done, there has always been a fuse on that wire.

Also, is it ok to run that long of a ground wire, meaning the one between the batteries? Is it possible to ground the second battery in the trunk, along with the other grounds i will have there?

 
i'm about to do basically the same thing with my explorer, stock exide (big battery anyway, but can't hang with the crossfire) under the hood and g31a yellow top in the back. i'm not planning to use an isolator, but i dont play it with the truck off. going to wait until i do the deadener on the floor (its in the mail now) to do it though so i neatly run the power wire closer to the middle of the truck. today, i was planning to put the 31 under the hood and see what happened.

 
basically, i need to know if this diagram is correct in the fact that i DONT need a fuse in-line between the second battery and the amplifier itself. http://www.kinetikaudio.com/manuals/khccells.pdfalso, does the ground need to be run from under the hood to the second battery, or can i ground it in the trunk, so as to keep the wire as short as possible?
That is exactly how I have my set-up connected, and I have never had a problem. Grounding directly to the first battery would be ideal, but you shouldnt notice much difference if you ground in the rear end of the vehicle (my ground is in the back, again no problems.)

And no, if the run is very short between the amp and battery then you don't need a fuse, but it won't hurt anything; but in the event a short does occur, for God knows what reason, your amp will be fudged.

 
i am pretty sure that the 31 wont fit under my hood. the dimensions are about 2" larger all the way around. The only thing i can think of is either, a: use a 34 instead of a 31, or b: use a 31 in the trunk. i think i will get a 34 and put it under the hood. if i have issues after this, i will then get a second 34 and put it in the trunk, and wire away.

 
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