2019 F250 Audio Upgrade

Dayton DSP with bluetooth dongle The SQ will be MILES better than any LOC solution you can think up of if your phone is aptx capable. your stock head unit will just be a decoration while all your audio is done through the DSP and your phone. Like if you do anything using the stock head unit you'll get a 2-3 signal quality at best with the bluetooth dongle on the dsp you'll be up to an 8-9 out of 10. 10 out of 10 requires extreme specific expensive audiophile grade music player/dacs with spdif to a high dollar dsp etc... so 9 out of 10 is pretty fking good already.

🤯🤯🤯....lol. I’m definitely interested in this type of system setup. As far as DSP’s go, I know f**k all about them. Doing a quick search, the Dayton 408 comes up. Is this what I would want? I’m certainly not looking for a 10/10 audiophile system but 8-9/10 sounds good to me.

What is aptx capable? I have an iPhone 10 so I assume it should do the job?
 
I mean brands that made their names making drivers like focal, dynaudio, rainbow, hybrid etc. Rockford products have always been over rated and over priced imo.

Definitely understand what you mean now. I will look into these brands. Would you include Hertz in the mix?
 
🤯🤯🤯....lol. I’m definitely interested in this type of system setup. As far as DSP’s go, I know f**k all about them. Doing a quick search, the Dayton 408 comes up. Is this what I would want? I’m certainly not looking for a 10/10 audiophile system but 8-9/10 sounds good to me.

What is aptx capable? I have an iPhone 10 so I assume it should do the job?

Or what about AudioControl DSP. Just trying to find what’s most available in Canada.
 
🤯🤯🤯....lol. I’m definitely interested in this type of system setup. As far as DSP’s go, I know f**k all about them. Doing a quick search, the Dayton 408 comes up. Is this what I would want? I’m certainly not looking for a 10/10 audiophile system but 8-9/10 sounds good to me.

What is aptx capable? I have an iPhone 10 so I assume it should do the job?
yes it does the job. It means you can play lossless without any loss of information through bluetooth transfer just like you are playing a CD. Thats how far technology has come. Audiocontrol is a nogo, poor reviews from the sound quality forums on diyma. Its cheaper to buy the dayton, pay the import and shipping fees than buying that audio control unit im pretty sure.
 
yes it does the job. It means you can play lossless without any loss of information through bluetooth transfer just like you are playing a CD. Thats how far technology has come. Audiocontrol is a nogo, poor reviews from the sound quality forums on diyma. Its cheaper to buy the dayton, pay the import and shipping fees than buying that audio control unit im pretty sure.

Thanks for the awesome information. I definitely want quality gear so thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Looks like I can order from parts express with $30 shipping. Will also order the dongle as well. I’m sure I’ll have a bunch more questions as I get rolling.
 
Thanks for the awesome information. I definitely want quality gear so thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Looks like I can order from parts express with $30 shipping. Will also order the dongle as well. I’m sure I’ll have a bunch more questions as I get rolling.
yeah anything you dont understand just ask. download the dayton app on the playstore or apple store.

Proper setups nowadays focus all the attention and power to the front speakers and nothing to the rear because the rears destroy soundstage by pulling the sound backwards and instead of separated instruments where they are supposed to be, you get a blob of sound instead.

Proper front stage setups will be loud enough to be heard a football field away so you dont really need to worry about passengers. However the sound quality will be significantly better.

You can buy components if you want but you will literally be throwing away the passive crossover that comes with the set because its absolutely useless. You will use the active network crossovers on the DSP to split the signal so the mid and tweeter can do their own jobs and blend perfectly together. You'll want tweeters on their own pair of channels and the mids on their own pair of channels with your 4 channel amp.
 
yeah anything you dont understand just ask. download the dayton app on the playstore or apple store.

Proper setups nowadays focus all the attention and power to the front speakers and nothing to the rear because the rears destroy soundstage by pulling the sound backwards and instead of separated instruments where they are supposed to be, you get a blob of sound instead.

Proper front stage setups will be loud enough to be heard a football field away so you dont really need to worry about passengers. However the sound quality will be significantly better.

You can buy components if you want but you will literally be throwing away the passive crossover that comes with the set because its absolutely useless. You will use the active network crossovers on the DSP to split the signal so the mid and tweeter can do their own jobs and blend perfectly together. You'll want tweeters on their own pair of channels and the mids on their own pair of channels with your 4 channel amp.

That's my plan.....eliminate rears and focus on the fronts.

Ordered the Dayton DSP 408 last night.

Stopped by my local Hertz dealer and didn't really get the answers I was looking for from the "car audio guy".

I want to go with these components: (passive crossovers will not be utilized)


Questions:

1 - As noted above, each speaker (2 tweets/2 mids) receives its own channel from the 4 channel amp. The Hertz pros are rated for 115 watts RMS......does that mean that each individual speaker is rated for 115W RMS or does that mean that each pair of speakers is rated for 115W RMS? "Audio guy" didn't know the answer. This will help me determine which amp to select.

2 - Hertz pros are rated at 3 ohms......do these speakers get matched with a 2 ohm or 4 ohm amp or does it matter?
 
That's my plan.....eliminate rears and focus on the fronts.

Ordered the Dayton DSP 408 last night.

Stopped by my local Hertz dealer and didn't really get the answers I was looking for from the "car audio guy".

I want to go with these components: (passive crossovers will not be utilized)


Questions:

1 - As noted above, each speaker (2 tweets/2 mids) receives its own channel from the 4 channel amp. The Hertz pros are rated for 115 watts RMS......does that mean that each individual speaker is rated for 115W RMS or does that mean that each pair of speakers is rated for 115W RMS? "Audio guy" didn't know the answer. This will help me determine which amp to select.

2 - Hertz pros are rated at 3 ohms......do these speakers get matched with a 2 ohm or 4 ohm amp or does it matter?

The rms ratings dont matter, just get as much power as you can, 150 rms x 4 would do good. 3 ohm ratings dont matter either all amps are stable down to 2 ohms.

Reason why you want more power is because you never want a mids and highs amp operating at 90 to 100% thats when you introduce distortion into your music. An amp barely lifting a finger to power your speakers will remain cool, efficient and last way longer along with providing the cleanest signal while giving you the most sound quality and output you desire. its actually safer too because 125 watts clean wont burn a 115 watts rms speaker but a 100 watts clipped definitely will.

My experience with hertz speakers, they crave power. The setups i've heard and seen benefited from the owner only having 125 watts per mid/tweet to 300 to the mids which made the midbass and midrange come alive in the hsk lines.
 
The rms ratings dont matter, just get as much power as you can, 150 rms x 4 would do good. 3 ohm ratings dont matter either all amps are stable down to 2 ohms.

Reason why you want more power is because you never want a mids and highs amp operating at 90 to 100% thats when you introduce distortion into your music. An amp barely lifting a finger to power your speakers will remain cool, efficient and last way longer along with providing the cleanest signal while giving you the most sound quality and output you desire. its actually safer too because 125 watts clean wont burn a 115 watts rms speaker but a 100 watts clipped definitely will.

My experience with hertz speakers, they crave power. The setups i've heard and seen benefited from the owner only having 125 watts per mid/tweet to 300 to the mids which made the midbass and midrange come alive in the hsk lines.

This is the equipment I have decided to go with for my setup:

Amps:



Sub:


Fronts:

 
Looks good

Well, I completed the hardest part of my project. I was able to purchase all of my equipment without my wife finding out.....I'm pretty proud of myself!

Jeffdachef...…….Thanks for all the advice and for pointing me in the right direction.

I think I will document my build and post in the Build Log.
 
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