2018 Wrangler JL- Upgrading from JL Audio 8" microsub


Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Feb 5, 2013
17,262
252
South Coast Metro, CA
Jeff, I just bought the wood and materials at home depot.  Thanks again for all your help and my apologies for the repeated questions.  I was going to begin making the box tonight...Is there any way you can send over a final cut sheet with these dimensions : 15" wide × 14" tall × 9" top rear depth & 12" bottom rear depth?  Thanks a ton....sorry for the repetitive questions.
you definitely want that polyfill 

image.png

 
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JeeperVol

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
May 18, 2019
98
3
you definitely want that polyfill 

View attachment 5760
I paid $50 for this "premium" sheet of plywood at Lowes and am seeing quite a few voids.  The regular pine looked worse.   My local box builders recommended 3/4" mdf bc plywood quality is inconsistent.  Do you think the voids are going to cause sound issues?  I paid a guy $40 to make the cuts and angle the edges.

 

Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Feb 5, 2013
17,262
252
South Coast Metro, CA
I paid $50 for this "premium" sheet of plywood at Lowes and am seeing quite a few voids.  The regular pine looked worse.   My local box builders recommended 3/4" mdf bc plywood quality is inconsistent.  Do you think the voids are going to cause sound issues?  I paid a guy $40 to make the cuts and angle the edges.
you'll be fine. Even with all the voids it still way stronger than MDF and has better acoustical dampening properties and is way lighter.

The video I linked you with the guy doing tests on MDF vs cheapest pine ply already has data on it.  

Also have angle of deflection tests here as well. MDF is weak and heavy. No sense in doing mdf unless you want a nice coat of paint.

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/206653-an-experiment-in-box-materials/

 
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JeeperVol

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
May 18, 2019
98
3
you'll be fine. Even with all the voids it still way stronger than MDF and has better acoustical dampening properties and is way lighter.

The video I linked you with the guy doing tests on MDF vs cheapest pine ply already has data on it.  

Also have angle of deflection tests here as well. MDF is weak and heavy. No sense in doing mdf unless you want a nice coat of paint.

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/206653-an-experiment-in-box-materials/
Would it help seal the internal part of the box if I stained it with a sealer or polyurethane?  I have titebond 2, 1.75" wood screws and silicone wood trim caulk.

 It probably weighs 10 lbs total....very lightweight. The 12" sub weighs 24lbs....I hope this box can hold it! 

 

Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Feb 5, 2013
17,262
252
South Coast Metro, CA
Would it help seal the internal part of the box if I stained it with a sealer or polyurethane?  I have titebond 2, 1.75" wood screws and silicone wood trim caulk.

 It probably weighs 10 lbs total....very lightweight. The 12" sub weighs 24lbs....I hope this box can hold it! 
you can get some fiberglass resin and paint the inside if you want more seal and strength without adding weight.

 
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JeeperVol

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
May 18, 2019
98
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you can get some fiberglass resin and paint the inside if you want more seal and strength without adding weight.
I watch some fiberglass resin tutorials on YouTube...looks messy and smells bad.  Any other paint substitues to firm up the box and seal it better?  I used alot of titebond 2 on it tonight and added the screws.

 

Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Feb 5, 2013
17,262
252
South Coast Metro, CA
I watch some fiberglass resin tutorials on YouTube...looks messy and smells bad.  Any other paint substitues to firm up the box and seal it better?  I used alot of titebond 2 on it tonight and added the screws.
yeah it takes a few days of curing before you put it in, its the strongest coat you can do. You can just caulk the edges and corners and call it a day to be honest. The coating the walls on the inside wont really do much.

 
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JeeperVol

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
May 18, 2019
98
3
yeah it takes a few days of curing before you put it in, its the strongest coat you can do. You can just caulk the edges and corners and call it a day to be honest. The coating the walls on the inside wont really do much.
Thanks...I drilled pilot holes and used screws every 4" and let the glue cure overnight upright on flat ground with a 45 lb flat weight on it.  This morning, I touched up a couple tiny voids with titebond and it feels rock solid.  Once that dries, I'll caulk the inner joints.

I bought the speaker gasket tape linked below to seal the sub and wire terminal.  I have a 2" diameter hole cut for the round wire terminal...do I need to use the gasket tape and caulk to seal the wire terminal and sub?  When you screw your wire terminal and sub to the enclosure, do you simply drill pilot holes and put a screw directly in the wood or do you use a threaded insert?

https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-gasketing-tape-1-8-x-1-2-x-50-ft-roll--260-542

For the polyfil, do you just use the loose cottonball like stuff at Walmart?  How much polyfil would you add?  

Thanks again

 

Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Feb 5, 2013
17,262
252
South Coast Metro, CA
Thanks...I drilled pilot holes and used screws every 4" and let the glue cure overnight upright on flat ground with a 45 lb flat weight on it.  This morning, I touched up a couple tiny voids with titebond and it feels rock solid.  Once that dries, I'll caulk the inner joints.

I bought the speaker gasket tape linked below to seal the sub and wire terminal.  I have a 2" diameter hole cut for the round wire terminal...do I need to use the gasket tape and caulk to seal the wire terminal and sub?  When you screw your wire terminal and sub to the enclosure, do you simply drill pilot holes and put a screw directly in the wood or do you use a threaded insert?

https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-gasketing-tape-1-8-x-1-2-x-50-ft-roll--260-542

For the polyfil, do you just use the loose cottonball like stuff at Walmart?  How much polyfil would you add?  

Thanks again
I already listed the proper polyfill to buy back then on the list of install stuff.... but apparently you didnt even bother looking at it.  Its plywood, you dont really need to predrill like MDF but you can if you want. Its only a 24lb sub, you dont need any inserts. you actually want to caulk and gasket the round terminals and make that air leak proof, you can lose a good bit of SQ and output if its not airtight.

 
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JeeperVol

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
May 18, 2019
98
3
I already listed the proper polyfill to buy back then on the list of install stuff.... but apparently you didnt even bother looking at it.  Its plywood, you dont really need to predrill like MDF but you can if you want. Its only a 24lb sub, you dont need any inserts. you actually want to caulk and gasket the round terminals and make that air leak proof, you can lose a good bit of SQ and output if its not airtight.
My bad...I'll find where you posted the polyfil.  

 
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J

JeeperVol

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
May 18, 2019
98
3
I already listed the proper polyfill to buy back then on the list of install stuff.... but apparently you didnt even bother looking at it.  Its plywood, you dont really need to predrill like MDF but you can if you want. Its only a 24lb sub, you dont need any inserts. you actually want to caulk and gasket the round terminals and make that air leak proof, you can lose a good bit of SQ and output if its not airtight.
Does the dayton 408 dsp easily pair with my jl fix 86?  Is there anything meaningful that it cant do that the twk-88 does?  I can get a twk88 for $300.  

 

Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Feb 5, 2013
17,262
252
South Coast Metro, CA
Does the dayton 408 dsp easily pair with my jl fix 86?  Is there anything meaningful that it cant do that the twk-88 does?  I can get a twk88 for $300.  
the twk88 is more beginner friendly, the dayton is more advanced. I'd to the twk88 since you dont really have the tuning knowledge to utilize the dayton to the full potential

 
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JeeperVol

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
May 18, 2019
98
3
the twk88 is more beginner friendly, the dayton is more advanced. I'd to the twk88 since you dont really have the tuning knowledge to utilize the dayton to the full potential
When you say that the dayton is more advanced, are you implying the dayton offers more advanced tuning?  Or are you implying that the TWK-88 software is more intuitive and easier to use and they both do the exact same thing?

 

blazian87

CarAudio.com Elite
10+ year member
Mar 12, 2007
1,364
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Los Angeles, CA
When you say that the dayton is more advanced, are you implying the dayton offers more advanced tuning?  Or are you implying that the TWK-88 software is more intuitive and easier to use and they both do the exact same thing?
Yes, that's exactly what he's saying. They practically do the same thing but the TWK-88 is much more limited compared to what the dayton can do. If I were to choose between the 2, it's a no brainer.. the dayton wins all day.. but that doesn't mean there isn't a use for the TWK. It's really beneficial for those who aren't as tech savvy and doesn't want to fiddle with the settings every 2 seconds. So you have to decide whether you want ease of tuning or the perks of having more tuning features within your fingertips. In simpler terms, just ask yourself this.. how OCD are you? 1-10. That should answer everything.

 
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JeeperVol

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
May 18, 2019
98
3
Yes, that's exactly what he's saying. They practically do the same thing but the TWK-88 is much more limited compared to what the dayton can do. If I were to choose between the 2, it's a no brainer.. the dayton wins all day.. but that doesn't mean there isn't a use for the TWK. It's really beneficial for those who aren't as tech savvy and doesn't want to fiddle with the settings every 2 seconds. So you have to decide whether you want ease of tuning or the perks of having more tuning features within your fingertips. In simpler terms, just ask yourself this.. how OCD are you? 1-10. That should answer everything.
I'm definitely a perfectionist and a little OCD when it comes to sound quality.  I like to set it and forget the dsp tuning adjustments except for frequently adjusting the bass knob.  I have the fix 86 sending a clean signal and I bought a bass adjustment knob for the hd750 amp...guess if I bought a dsp, I would use the adjustment knob on the dsp?  My main goal is to have a rear facing sub in the back of a 4 door SUV blend well with the front components where the bass doesn't feel localized like it did with my previous side aimed 8" microsub.  If it will sound good without having to spend $300 on a twk-88 dsp and find a mounting place, that would be great. However, the Dayton dsp is very tempting at $150 new.  Install is on Thursday, so I need to pull the trigger today if I'm getting a dsp.  Thoughts?  Also would like@Jeffdachef recommendation.  

 
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Jeffdachef

Gunz That Turn on Nunz
Feb 5, 2013
17,262
252
South Coast Metro, CA
I'm definitely a perfectionist and a little OCD when it comes to sound quality.  I like to set it and forget the dsp tuning adjustments except for frequently adjusting the bass knob.  I have the fix 86 sending a clean signal and I bought a bass adjustment knob for the hd750 amp...guess if I bought a dsp, I would use the adjustment knob on the dsp?  My main goal is to have a rear facing sub in the back of a 4 door SUV blend well with the front components where the bass doesn't feel localized like it did with my previous side aimed 8" microsub.  If it will sound good without having to spend $300 on a twk-88 dsp and find a mounting place, that would be great. However, the Dayton dsp is very tempting at $150 new.  Install is on Thursday, so I need to pull the trigger today if I'm getting a dsp.  Thoughts?  Also would like@Jeffdachef recommendation.  
the previous 8 would have had a lot of midbass which caused all the localization pulling the bass to the rear, the dayton should hit a bit deeper, more linear so there should be a better blend from the swap along with proper alignment which helps the phasing as well. However the most important aspect of up front bass, your front speakers need to have really strong midbass to pull the bass up front, like ungodly amounts, that is mainly what affects the up front bass image the most next would be with getting the subs and mids in proper phase with polarity control and time alignment for more accurate thuds on par with the midbass thuds. Since you already have a fix86 i'd just do the twk88 to have a matching set so you can sell it later on easier. You'll have an easier time tuning as well for a set it and forget it.  With a dayton its less forgiving and requires an RTA to get the most out of it.  

 
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JeeperVol

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
May 18, 2019
98
3
the previous 8 would have had a lot of midbass which caused all the localization pulling the bass to the rear, the dayton should hit a bit deeper, more linear so there should be a better blend from the swap along with proper alignment which helps the phasing as well. However the most important aspect of up front bass, your front speakers need to have really strong midbass to pull the bass up front, like ungodly amounts, that is mainly what affects the up front bass image the most next would be with getting the subs and mids in proper phase with polarity control and time alignment for more accurate thuds on par with the midbass thuds. Since you already have a fix86 i'd just do the twk88 to have a matching set so you can sell it later on easier. You'll have an easier time tuning as well for a set it and forget it.  With a dayton its less forgiving and requires an RTA to get the most out of it.  
Thanks...I decided to hold off on spending more $ on the twk88.  I'm going to try and adjust the crossovers and polarity to try and blend everything.  I carpeted my box tonight....definitely messy and doesnt look great up close.  Tough to get perfect seams.

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