2018 Toyota Tacoma build


Seth F.

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Aug 20, 2020
38
4
Virginia
Figured I would post some pics of my current Taco build and the changes that will take place in the next few weeks.

Current setup:
  • Stock Head Unit. Entune (Non JBL) 7" touch screen. Decent unit, I see no reason to replace it and have to deal with the cost and programming for a Maestro RR.
  • Audio Control LC7i line out converter. This made a HUGE difference in sound quality versus using the high level inputs on the Pioneer amp. Details in the photos.
  • Pioneer GM-4704. These amps had a lot of good reviews and I wanted some good sound on a budget so I started with this amp. Currently running in a 5 speaker configuration 120w @ 2ohm for the mids and highs and 120w bridged for the sub. Crossovers set at 100Hz IIRC.
  • 4 x Kicker CSC67 Coax in the doors. Again budget drivers with decent sound.
  • Kicker CompC 10" 4ohm prefabbed truck box. "Bump on a Budget"
  • Noico 80mil sound deadening.
This arrangement is a clear upgrade from the stock sound system, but its just not enough and definite issues with imaging are present. But here are some pics of what I've been running for about 9 months or so.

Pioneer Amp Wired up at a 2ohm + 4ohm load in a 5 channel setup and mounted on a simple 1/8" ABS plate under the driver seat. This was pre Audio Control LC7i. The high level inputs on this amp really ****, which is why I ended up adding the LC7i.
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Driver side front door with the Noico and Kicker 6.75 Coax installed. Before and after.
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Kicker CompC 10" Truck wedge and one of the 6.75 coax
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Clifff150

Senior VIP Member
Jan 10, 2012
861
146
Texas
I have a 4Runner and highly recommend dumping the Entune and getting a better unit. The maestro is worth the cost in my opinion. Added features are cool and install is a breeze.
 
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Seth F.

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Aug 20, 2020
38
4
Virginia
I have a 4Runner and highly recommend dumping the Entune and getting a better unit. The maestro is worth the cost in my opinion. Added features are cool and install is a breeze.
What head unit are you running? I just bought an Audio Control DM-608 DSP today as part of the upcoming changes to fix the imaging issues with the Entune and at some point I was planning on modifying the bezel to install an iPad mini kit from soundman.co.
 

BCotrell

Senior VIP Member
May 27, 2015
1,159
236
irvine, ca
Why wouldn’t you guys get a replacement aftermarket double din...clean signal, less expensive than a dsp, easier.
 
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Seth F.

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Aug 20, 2020
38
4
Virginia
Why wouldn’t you guys get a replacement aftermarket double din...clean signal, less expensive than a dsp, easier.
I plan to go active at some point so I still need the DSP, especially if I want to run 3-ways up front + a sub. The head unit(s) I liked were all ~750-1k anyway so I chose to spend the money on amps, speakers, and a DSP now so I can really learn how to tune properly before getting in to active land. The end goal for this project is to learn how to properly tune the system and I also want to do some custom fab work and build my own custom sub box. Just like every audiophile system, it will never end 🙃
 

Clifff150

Senior VIP Member
Jan 10, 2012
861
146
Texas
What head unit are you running? I just bought an Audio Control DM-608 DSP today as part of the upcoming changes to fix the imaging issues with the Entune and at some point I was planning on modifying the bezel to install an iPad mini kit from soundman.co.
I have the Pioneer 4400NEX. I’m currently using network mode to go active but will be upgrading to a DSP in the future. I really like the new Pioneer “floating” screen but too much money for me.
 
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Seth F.

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Aug 20, 2020
38
4
Virginia
I have the Pioneer 4400NEX. I’m currently using network mode to go active but will be upgrading to a DSP in the future. I really like the new Pioneer “floating” screen but too much money for me.
Yeah that's pretty much why I chose to keep the stock HU and go with the DSP first. I really want to put an iPad in mine for the unique factor.
 

Clifff150

Senior VIP Member
Jan 10, 2012
861
146
Texas
I think the iPad thing is cool but it’s my wife’s car so there’s no way she’d want to use it lol. Best part about the 4400NEX is Apple CarPlay. She literally gets in and goes. Her and technology don’t trust each other haha
 
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MattinMO

Senior VIP Member
Dec 31, 2017
910
219
St.louis, MO
Why wouldn’t you guys get a replacement aftermarket double din...clean signal, less expensive than a dsp, easier.
not necessarily cheaper I am running into issues with my my 2014 yota with aftermarket excelon double din, I bought an almost $100 wiring harness to be able to retain factory backup camera, steering wheels controls, factory aux and usb inputs in the console, plus radio antenna harness. I am running into issues with it im about to take it back out and try out a dsr1 on the factory deck
 
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Seth F.

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Aug 20, 2020
38
4
Virginia
I think the iPad thing is cool but it’s my wife’s car so there’s no way she’d want to use it lol. Best part about the 4400NEX is Apple CarPlay. She literally gets in and goes. Her and technology don’t trust each other haha
IKR. I also want to learn the DSP route because my wife has a highlander and is disappointed AF with the bass. Its the JBL version and I aint messing with an after market HU on that MF'er. So DSP for her too :-D
 

BCotrell

Senior VIP Member
May 27, 2015
1,159
236
irvine, ca
not necessarily cheaper I am running into issues with my my 2014 yota with aftermarket excelon double din, I bought an almost $100 wiring harness to be able to retain factory backup camera, steering wheels controls, factory aux and usb inputs in the console, plus radio antenna harness. I am running into issues with it im about to take it back out and try out a dsr1 on the factory deck
Yeah you’re roght, I guess we have to draw a fine line between aftermarket upgrade and oem integration as both goals are clearly different.
 
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Seth F.

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Aug 20, 2020
38
4
Virginia
Let the upgrades begin...

Starting work on the amp rack today. Going with 1/2” MDF mounted on the rear wall behind the seat on the drivers side. You can see the cardboard template at the bottom of the picture. I chose a location where I could use existing mounting holes and bolts where the factory plastic used to be. No idea how I’m going to arrange everything yet. Components going in the front. May mount the crossovers on the amp rack but I’m leaning more toward under the drivers seat where the pioneer currently lives. I want to avoid mounting the crossovers in the doors at all costs.

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Clifff150

Senior VIP Member
Jan 10, 2012
861
146
Texas
IKR. I also want to learn the DSP route because my wife has a highlander and is disappointed AF with the bass. Its the JBL version and I aint messing with an after market HU on that MF'er. So DSP for her too :-D
Is the head unit integrated with a/c or anything?
 
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Seth F.

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Aug 20, 2020
38
4
Virginia
Is the head unit integrated with a/c or anything?
Not sure It just looks like a complicated dash and if all she wants is extra bass I can just delete the two channels in the rear lift gate and use that for the bass channel (if they are full range). That 608 will be able to tell me whats on each channel.
 
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Seth F.

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Aug 20, 2020
38
4
Virginia
I also think I've settled on this guy for the bass upgrade. The Skar M5001D is rated 380w @ 2ohm (14.4v) so I figure ill get around 320 or so at 12.5V minus a little bit for inefficiencies. Later when I upgrade the battery and alternator it should get close to 14V but we shall see. I might only upgrade to a high end AGM cell and leave it at that. I think for an SQ style system this should be the ticket. I'll save building a custom sub box for later down the road when I get that itch again.

 
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Seth F.

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Aug 20, 2020
38
4
Virginia
Made some progress this weekend on the Taco. Built my amp rack, sound treated the back wall, and ran the 9 wire cable ill be using to connect the factory HU to the DM-608.

Amp rack build pics. Pre paint and Finished. I took a page out of Dean from 5 Star Audio book for the amp rack. I really like how he wires up everything so I took the time to mimic for this project. I really like the outcome.
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Amp rack fit testing and Noico 80mil sound deadening on the rear wall.
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Finally, the 9 wire cable run from the HU to the DM-608. I took out the under seat rear storage box and ran the cable up the the passenger side of the center console. I had to Dremel a notch out so that the storage box would sit flush again. I used 3 grommet's from a Harbor Freight kit to make sure the jacket is protected. It worked out pretty nice in the end.
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Now its a waiting game for the JL Sub enclosure to come in. Hopefully this weekend I can get everything hooked up and start the tuning.
 

No Show

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
May 10, 2019
33
7
I plan to go active at some point so I still need the DSP, especially if I want to run 3-ways up front + a sub. The head unit(s) I liked were all ~750-1k anyway so I chose to spend the money on amps, speakers, and a DSP now so I can really learn how to tune properly before getting in to active land. The end goal for this project is to learn how to properly tune the system and I also want to do some custom fab work and build my own custom sub box. Just like every audiophile system, it will never end 🙃
Man I have the same truck in a 2020 model and went with the JLAudio Fix 86 coming out of the front, Memphis audio XIV components front and rear powered by a 6 channel JL Audio. My sub is a JL Audio 10W7 in an over the seat configuration and this thing hits good. Sub is powered by a DD Audio DM1500. These trucks are horrible for anything behind the seats as far as any significant air space. But the clarity from the doors/tweeter pods is better than any system I've ever owned. You are correct it never ends lol. Best of luck !!
 
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Seth F.

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
Aug 20, 2020
38
4
Virginia
Man I have the same truck in a 2020 model and went with the JLAudio Fix 86 coming out of the front, Memphis audio XIV components front and rear powered by a 6 channel JL Audio. My sub is a JL Audio 10W7 in an over the seat configuration and this thing hits good. Sub is powered by a DD Audio DM1500. These trucks are horrible for anything behind the seats as far as any significant air space. But the clarity from the doors/tweeter pods is better than any system I've ever owned. You are correct it never ends lol. Best of luck !!
Yeah the behind the seat area is terrible but I'm really after SQ and like you said there are tons of options for the doors as far as components go. The factory tweeter/mid location is another option but I don't like bouncing off the windshield but maybe it would work at some point. The Kicker I have in there now actually does its job and I'm hoping the JL with more power will fill in nicely. Where did you mount your equipment and whats "over the seat" configuration? Are you saying you have a box on your seat or deleted the seat to put a box in? Would actually like to see pics of your setup.
 
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No Show

CarAudio.com Enthusiast
May 10, 2019
33
7
Yeah the behind the seat area is terrible but I'm really after SQ and like you said there are tons of options for the doors as far as components go. The factory tweeter/mid location is another option but I don't like bouncing off the windshield but maybe it would work at some point. The Kicker I have in there now actually does its job and I'm hoping the JL with more power will fill in nicely. Where did you mount your equipment and whats "over the seat" configuration? Are you saying you have a box on your seat or deleted the seat to put a box in? Would actually like to see pics of your setup.
6.5's are in the doors, tweeters aren't in that factory position I put those in that top triangular corner door piece(the black abs plastic). The DSP is behind the factory unit and the crossovers are in the door panels. Amps behind the rear seats and this is the sub enclosure. I have all the appropriate wiring upgrades etc, but I need the new alt and battery(s). I am taking out the JL Audio W7 and putting in another sub and significant amount of power to go with it.
 

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