Featured 2018 Toyota Sienna minivan with 2 DB4515R on 2 Taramps Smart 8 Bass

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On to the box. I decided to make a box with walls made of 3/4" Birch play (just the lowes stuff not the real baltic) with a metal frame inside to make it strong. Here's most of the walls, the angled section in the back is because the rear legs of the rear seat attach to the floor of the trunk ( you can see it in earlier pics). I decided adding an angle to the back was the easiest way to build around it.

Getting the metal parts right was a bit of a pain but it's strength/weight is far better than wood. Metal is welded together, wood parts are glued with wood glue and screwed, metal is attached to wood with construction adhesive and bolts in some places just to really clamp the large sheets down during curing.

 

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The baffle is CNC machined from 1/4" steel. The rings around the sub cutouts were made the same way. I designed the parts and sent them to a cnc shop online. I think it cost around $280.

Then I painted the inside to prevent it from rusting since it's just plain steel, then I cleaned up the top and sprayed it with clear enamel. The metal baffle is unique so I just decided to clear coat and have it look bare.

Ports are 6" PVC pipes with some 90 elbows.

 

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I also welded and painted these plates for bolting the box to the car.

You can see the 4 bolts here.

Here's how it looks inside the car.

This shows the amp mounting plates. I made sure to use rubber standoffs. There is just one amp in there for now, but I've already made the mounting parts for the other one.

Took this picture of the underside of one sub since it won't be visible when they're both in.

And finally, enough things assembled so that I can start jamming.

 

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Done with the photo dump for now, until I get some more work done. And I'll share pics of under the hood later.

 

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Here's the engine bay. The cable on the left runs into the cabin behind the glove box. The alternator is a large case 400 from autotech with the charge voltage increased a tad to 14.8V. It works well, I haven't rrun it super hard yet but I observed it put out 200 amps at idle with an amp clamp. Should be more than enough to keep the LTO charged up.

That bit of wire that runs to alt is hooked up to a ignition switched source in the fuse box. I'm not really sure what it does or why it's necessary but I just followed the directions from autotech and it works fine. I also did not hook up anything to the stock alt harness and in my car it works perfectly fine with no charge system light.

 

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Here's the 3d printed parts for the center console lid I mentioned earlier.

 

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Here's some shots of the back. Shows where the rear speakers are. Hope the losers sitting back there appreciate the trouble I went through to put speakers in there.

 

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The work that still needs to be done:
Most of my panels are damped but I haven't done the sliding side doors or the trunk lid or the roof.
Still need to get another 12 LTO cells and another 8k.

Also there still needs to be some major work. I haven't been able to push the subs at all because my roof flexes way too much. My rear view mirror fell off - I think it would more accurate to say the glass it was glued to broke away from the windshield though LMAO

the rubber bands on there because the glass was sorta vibrating inside the plastic housing of it so I put those on to stop it. wound up not mattering because it broke. Here's a pic of the windshield showing the missing chunk lol

For now I have a cheapo mirror from amazon that has a suction cup on it. Works fine.

So yeah, I need to get the headliner off and see what I'm working with. I'd like to glue some plywood panels to the ceiling and add a stripper pole to stop the roof from vibrating and hopefully stop the windshield from destroying itself further. Hopefully I'll be able to add those panels in a way that I can still get the headliner back on. I'll probably also put wood panels instead of damping the trunk lid, it shakes like a motherfucker rn, I actually put a little blue threadlock on the screws for the license plate because they were backing out lmao

 

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And yes I have the **** my dick meter on the dash

 

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The trunk lid. The roof flexing is a more serious issue right now but I decided to do the trunk first since this is my first time gluing wood to panels and filling them with expanding foam.

I also added rivnuts to the lid for the bottom 2 license plate holes so I could use all 4. The car only came with the top 2 and of course the bottom of the plate smacked around.

There might be room for more damping material or foam. I'll just move on for now though. It worked really well. Low tones made it rattle and warp especially bad and it's basically gone now.

 

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I've been quiet for a bit on the forum, but I'm still working on the car a lot. Here's the state of the roof this weekend. great progress.

 

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Headliner off. The beams that run across the roof from the factory were held on with this very flimsy goopy stuff, probably meant to just deaden vibration. I had to get under all of them with a wirebrush on my dremel and grind that crap out. I then used 3M panel bond to stick them back on, since I can't really weld thin metal that the roof is made of especially when it's painted on the other side. The wood panels are leftover wood from the box, 3/4" birch plywood, with relief cuts through to about 1 1/2 or 2 ply (they have 7) so it bends. Put a shit load of construction adhesive on them and clamped them in place with ratcheting cargo bars.

 

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I'm also adding a stripper pole in the front to help the windshield flex, pics later. better pics of the roof too later.

The headliner should fit back on with some small sections cut out, it'll look pretty good and you'd never know the roof is wood.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

Toyota minivan metal is challenging, max flex guaranteed.
Foam sux to work with but you managed it pretty well, the amount of deadening you've done says you've done this before.
Don't sweat the comments, I posted 2 15s hair tricking like 4 18s and got a cool response imo.

Nice build, Siennas are particularly vulnerable windshield-wise so that stripper pole speaks volumes about your experience.

 

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Toyota minivan metal is challenging, max flex guaranteed.
Foam sux to work with but you managed it pretty well, the amount of deadening you've done says you've done this before.
Don't sweat the comments, I posted 2 15s hair tricking like 4 18s and got a cool response imo.

Nice build, Siennas are particularly vulnerable windshield-wise so that stripper pole speaks volumes about your experience.

Thanks!

This is honestly my first build that's been big enough to need one - although my last car probably would've needed one, I got rear ended before I finished it.

You're totally right about the windshield strength; the flex is bad. I haven't been able to crank it yet because it'll probably crack further. My rear view mirror fell off awhile ago and it took the bit of glass it was glued to with it