2015 Subaru WRX

[Beerdrnkr 5,000+ posts]

DRLs replaced with OLM bulbs and I installed the harness to make it so the c-lights are on with the daytime running lights. Not anything too crazy but I like it. I'll take some pics of them at night as well.

Next I'll most likely be buying a processor and I'll install the 3way frontstage and probably the smoked out tail lights. Back to the audio I go.

 

[Beerdrnkr 5,000+ posts]

A couple things came in today:

I'm surprised the usb cord on the processor is so short.

 

[Beerdrnkr 5,000+ posts]

A couple things came in today:

I'm surprised the usb cord on the processor is so short.

 

[Beerdrnkr 5,000+ posts]

Got the headunit installed. I'll most likely get the mids, AMT tweets, and processor installed on monday and hopefully that'll satisfy my audio needs for a while.

 

[Beerdrnkr 5,000+ posts]

A long overdue update. I sound deadened the trunk and rear deck some more because it's just full of rattles. Even with that i was having issues with rattles but i guess that's what happens when you have 2 beefy 10s on 2000wrms. So my solution was taking out the 10s and running a single ID15 in a small ported box. I actually still get the bass that i crave AND it really helped with the rattles as well.

Next I installed the 4" dayton ref paper mids into the dash. I forgot how much better having mids on the dash/a pillars is! It sounds fantastic and i don't feel like I'm missing too much in the highs, mids bouncing off the windshield maybe has something to do with that. Either way I'll be getting a processor and adding either the LPG tweets i have or the dayton AMT tweeters i have to the a pillars. I'm sort of leading towards the LPG tweeters just because i have the hinged mounts for them but i won't be buying a processor for a bit.

So, because i only have the 3way active pioneer hu and its not too flexible, i had to run things a little different. I actually took the hu off of the active network and ran it with the front/rear as full range. I'm running the door mids as strictly midbass. I high passed them from 63hz/24db and low passed them at the amp at 200hz.

I'm running the mids at the highest high pass which is 200hz/24db up. The sub I'm running 80hz/24db lp.

I should also have a few more updates soon. I just purchased some new midbass that'll hopefully give me a little more punch: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/scanspeak-woofers-6-7/scanspeak-discovery-18w/4434g-00-7-midwoofer-4-ohm/

And since I'm running tweeterless at the moment I decided to purchase these: Dayton Audio PS95-8 3-1/2" Point Source Full Range Driver 8 Ohm

Still working on getting some performance mods done but for now I'm fine with the power. By next year I should have the downpipe, exhaust, crank pulley, and custom tune done hopefully and I'll leave it alone. However, the audio will most likely always be a work in progress.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

A long overdue update. I sound deadened the trunk and rear deck some more because it's just full of rattles. Even with that i was having issues with rattles but i guess that's what happens when you have 2 beefy 10s on 2000wrms. So my solution was taking out the 10s and running a single ID15 in a small ported box. I actually still get the bass that i crave AND it really helped with the rattles as well.
Next I installed the 4" dayton ref paper mids into the dash. I forgot how much better having mids on the dash/a pillars is! It sounds fantastic and i don't feel like I'm missing too much in the highs, mids bouncing off the windshield maybe has something to do with that. Either way I'll be getting a processor and adding either the LPG tweets i have or the dayton AMT tweeters i have to the a pillars. I'm sort of leading towards the LPG tweeters just because i have the hinged mounts for them but i won't be buying a processor for a bit.

So, because i only have the 3way active pioneer hu and its not too flexible, i had to run things a little different. I actually took the hu off of the active network and ran it with the front/rear as full range. I'm running the door mids as strictly midbass. I high passed them from 63hz/24db and low passed them at the amp at 200hz.

I'm running the mids at the highest high pass which is 200hz/24db up. The sub I'm running 80hz/24db lp.

I should also have a few more updates soon. I just purchased some new midbass that'll hopefully give me a little more punch: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/scanspeak-woofers-6-7/scanspeak-discovery-18w/4434g-00-7-midwoofer-4-ohm/

And since I'm running tweeterless at the moment I decided to purchase these: Dayton Audio PS95-8 3-1/2" Point Source Full Range Driver 8 Ohm

Still working on getting some performance mods done but for now I'm fine with the power. By next year I should have the downpipe, exhaust, crank pulley, and custom tune done hopefully and I'll leave it alone. However, the audio will most likely always be a work in progress.

deadener does not get rid of rattles, it just deadens vibrations, you need FOAM to decouple surfaces rubbing against eachother.

 

[Beerdrnkr 5,000+ posts]

deadener does not get rid of rattles, it just deadens vibrations, you need FOAM to decouple surfaces rubbing against eachother.

Yeah, I have deadening and a ton of ensolite all over the trunk and rear deck.

 

[Jeffdachef 5,000+ posts]

That is one thing i love about not having a trunk/rear deck anymore, no more interior rattles.

 

[Beerdrnkr 5,000+ posts]

Yeah I miss having an suv. Even my last car which was a hatch wasn't that bad with rattlea. Even if this car had a ski pass or rear deck mounted speakers it would be a lot better and give the subs some room to breath.

 

[Beerdrnkr 5,000+ posts]

I got a few extra pieces in today.

Pictured are the Scanspeak Discovery 7" mids which will be replacing the Dayton Ref Paper cone 7" mids in the doors. I'll be comparing the 3 1/2" full range Daytons to the 4" Dayton Ref paper cone mids in the dash (which sound great so far). Some of the other items shown are the Dayton mini AMT tweets, LPG tweets with a couple of different mounts, and the Dayton RS28 tweets. Can't wait til my next day off to start comparing some of these speakers!

 

[Beerdrnkr 5,000+ posts]

So after a little experimenting with the Dayton full range 3 1/2s , i decided to go back to the dayton rs100s.

In my application with the mids in the dash firing towards the windshield, the rs100s just sound much better and they're much easier to tame. With my limited dsp, i just couldn't get the fullrange daytons to sound good. They have plenty of detail but I just couldn't eq them in the high midrange (between 1kh-8khz) enough to tame them down a bit.

The rs100Ps are great and although they can't extend as high as the fullrangers they still sound great and give plenty of detail, while also playing lower.

I also installed the scanspeak Discovery 7" mids in the doors and I'm very happy with these. They do play lower than the dayton rs180p 7" mids and handle a little more power. Sorry i didnt get a pic of them installed. I also deadened my doors a little more which helped.

I deadened the trunk area some more as well and it helped immensely with the rattles. It helped so much more that i threw in the two 10s again and get very minimal rattle. Im happy with the system as it sits but i still plan on getting a processor and mounting some tweeters in the a-pillars sometime soon.

 

[Beerdrnkr 5,000+ posts]

Finally another update. Decided to try the IB route. I only have one Image Dynamics ID15 at the moment so my plan was to build the IB baffle and only cut out one hole for the single 15. Later when I purchase the second we'll make another cut.

Here's a few pics of the baffle build and we only had to remove one plastic panel which you can't see and replaced it with a single piece of wood to use as a flat base. The wood base gives us another spot to anchor in the IB panel without having to drill a bunch of holes into the floor.

The panel fits so perfectly into the opening that we literally had to hammer it in. Used some L-brackets along the top (into the metal deck) and along the bottom into the wood base to really get it solid.

 

[Beerdrnkr 5,000+ posts]

I wanted the IB baffle to be pretty simple to take in and out, so we used wing nuts for most of it. We used screws along the bottom on the L-brackets and along the top into the metal. To mount the sub we'll also use wing nuts to avoid stripping screws if I decide to try out different subs.

 

---------- Post added at 07:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:12 PM ----------

 

Next, the plan is to carpet the baffle, mount a second sub, and clean up the wiring.

Listening impressions....Wow! It gets loud and low! I can only imagine how it's going to sound with two 15's. And the sound quality...It moved the substage way up front. It sounds excellent.

Only a couple of issues to take care of, the third brake light rattles so that'll be my next project and now with the lower notes it's making my rearview mirror rattle again as well.

Overall, I'm extremely happy with the IB setup and can't wait to install the 2nd sub and the sound quality is great. I'm still working on getting a DSP to really dial it in and to add tweeters to the system. For only having 5 speakers total playing right now, I think it sounds really good.

 

[Beerdrnkr 5,000+ posts]

So for the second time I got the precision power deq-8 but this time I plan on installing it. I'm also buying the 2nd 15 today. So the final setup should look like this:

Headunit: Pioneers AVH-X5700BHS

Processor: Precision Power DEQ-8

Front stage Amp: JL Audio xd800/8

Sub Amp: US Amps MD3D

Midbass: Scanspeak Discovery 7"

Midrange: Dayton rs100p 4"

Tweeter: Dayton mini AMT or LPG'S

Subs: Image Dynamics ID15's (IB)

Scanspeak mids will receive 200wrms from the JL with 4 channels bridged.

Dayton mids will get 75wrms from the JL.

Tweeters will get 75wrms also from the JL.

The front and rear outputs from the hu will go to the processor and the processor will handle MB, MR, and highs. This will leave 1 set of channels on the processor open if I decide to experiment with rear fill/rear midbass.

The sub out on the Headunit will go straight to the sub amp. I have enough processing in the Headunit to deal with the sub.

 

[Beerdrnkr 5,000+ posts]

So close!