2010 Camaro AQ HDC 3 12's

subs up is usually a very poor configuration for trunks... and the port is cool, but not round, may not affect much but it could.

 

---------- Post added at 11:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:39 PM ----------

 

otherwise its pretty cool, glad to see people are still learning these days.

 
subs up is usually a very poor configuration for trunks... and the port is cool, but not round, may not affect much but it could.
Subs up was the only way to go for the camaro as the car is really small. Also in their specific position it allowed me to put the subs in without pulling the box out as that would of caused a lot of trouble. The box was a perfect fit, barely made it, after removed headrests lowering the driver and passenger seat as far as it would go. Also the round port saves more space than a slotted/vent port was able to get a few extra cubes that way if I remember correctly. So in the case of a very small trunk on the 2010 camaro, this was the only way to fit 2 big asss hdc 3's in that car without walling off the backseats.

 
What do you mean?
Sorry me being stupid i read it to fast, I get what u saying now your going to wire both subs up to 2ohm to come together at 1ohm. Nice job on the craftsmanship of the box. I like the wood port.

 
Subs up was the only way to go for the camaro as the car is really small. Also in their specific position it allowed me to put the subs in without pulling the box out as that would of caused a lot of trouble. The box was a perfect fit, barely made it, after removed headrests lowering the driver and passenger seat as far as it would go. Also the round port saves more space than a slotted/vent port was able to get a few extra cubes that way if I remember correctly. So in the case of a very small trunk on the 2010 camaro, this was the only way to fit 2 big asss hdc 3's in that car without walling off the backseats.
O really... I didnt know that round ports save space!?!?! Lulz, you probably should have just gone with an precision port aero port. would have saved you much more time and looked a lot cleaner.... Give me your max dims and Ill see what I can come up with. (subs forward, port side most likely)

 
Sorry me being stupid i read it to fast, I get what u saying now your going to wire both subs up to 2ohm to come together at 1ohm. Nice job on the craftsmanship of the box. I like the wood port.
Unfortunately I didn't create the box, it was the idea of a local audiophile by the name of Mark Stephens, he's good at what he does and he's young as well. So for the circumstances for which it called, he did a good job. Plus according to him the wood port was time consuming, a lot of measuring, cutting, moving etc to make it bendable.

O really... I didnt know that round ports save space!?!?! Lulz, you probably should have just gone with an precision port aero port. would have saved you much more time and looked a lot cleaner.... Give me your max dims and Ill see what I can come up with. (subs forward, port side most likely)
I'm not sure if that first comment was sarcasm, lol, I am just a messenger and thats what I was told. Plus, I like being able to turn around and throw **** into the port for the passengers. They love seeing Micky D's bags get shredded to pieces with only minimal power to these subs. I'm excited for the extra power that shall follow the build in the future. I just got to find a place to fit my batteries and amps and theirs very little room left on each side of the box.

I've always ever been in cars with ports forward or rearward, never to the side, I know bass is omni-directional so that shouldn't matter. But I foresee the side of my car taking a beating instead of the trunk and wouldn't that just look awkward from the outside? Wouldn't that decrease the clarity of the bass? Also subs forward would be nice to turn around and look at instead of a port as well, but like I said the box I have now which I figured would happen, was a bish to get in that hole of the trunk. The backseats don't lay down completely flat so I had to slide the box in at like a 3˚ upward difference which in turn was scraping the rear deck on the way in for a VERY tight fit. Once the box was in it though it has more room to move a little bit but not much. Also, like I said the upward firing subs made it so I could open my trunk and slide the subs in through that way, if not the subs cones would of scratched the rear deck, once again it was scraping the top of the box on the way in.

But these dimensions are not of my own, they were from other camaro owners with the same year and model as mine. It may vary by an inch or so. It's pouring a rain outside right now or I would go and do it myself.

Trunk/Cargo 11.3 cubic feet total

Opening of Trunk:

33" Wide

16" Long (Front to Back)

16 1/2" Depth (From Top Most Point to Floor)

Inside Trunk:

53" Wide

44" Long

Seats Folded Down:

68" (From Rear Most Trunk Wall to Edge of Folded Down Seats Inside of Vehicle)

Opening of Trunk Space With Seats Folded Down (From Inside Vehicle):

38" Wide

11" Tall (Top to Bottom)

 
So for the first time ever I am finally starting to see voltage drops on my DCIM which has a built in one. I've always hovered around 14.1-14.4 volts with a 1200 watt hifonics. I added the JL amp and started powering my door speakers and still had no problems with voltage dropping. A few days ago I got some upgraded RCA's and at first was using one run of RCA's and daisy chaining both amps only problem is I was losing some of the subwoofer options on my H/U. Now that I got the second run I can actively control both of the amps separately. Since I got the new RCA's I'd figured I'd go ahead and buy a new bass knob and I went with the PAC LC-1 and removed my stock bass knob that came with the hifonics. I had to buy a small set of extra RCA's because I didn't know the LC-1 had an input and an output, but I took care of it.

Well anyway on the way back from the beach with a few friends on the interstate radio not really full blast, my lights go out the radio cuts off, I lose power steering and gas, my breaks were really hard to apply. Luckily it was late and no cars were near so I pumped the breaks and drove into the shoulder. The first thing that I did was flip the car key switch over to look at the voltage and it was at like only 12v...? Anyway I started the care back up and like normal drove home and it never dropped below 13 after that. Ever since then the voltage when I turn up the stereo drops quickly below 14.4 volts to about 13-12.6 volts, and then suddenly when I am close to parking the voltage starts to jump back up to about 13.5 -14.2. So my voltage is very sporadic as you can see, and I closely monitor it from now on listening to music because I don't want my car to do that again one day and scare the **** out of me especially in traffic.

So I don't know if the new set of RCA runs is what kicked the power over the curb and now my alt is having trouble keeping up or its a mixture of the knew PAC and the new RCA runs.

Well anyway what should I do next, I still need to do the big 3 especially if I ever want to kick up the notch on these two subs. I am still currently using the hifonics 1200 so about 600 watts a piece to each sub. I want to eventually put about 1500-2000 to each sub individually. My stock alternator I believe is 140 amps, after the big three would that be the next best route to save up for? How many amps should a good H/O alternator be if I am trying to run several 1500-2000 watt amps and 500-1000 watt front stage amp. Also why the hell are alternators so **** expensive, I seen a h/o one for my car by DC power at 270 amps and it's almost 700$?

I am surfing the forums for answers as I type, but any quick links or advice would be appreciated.

 
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