2008 Jeep Wrangler build....

thats a big plus...but you still have the cut through and about $100 in camper shell boot ...if you stay below the glass...probally $200 plus if you do a complete cut through like a blazer ....and you always want to add an extra foot so you don't cut yourself short...prices may of changed but it seems it use to cost about $8.00 a foot......

 
Im curious why you say you wont be able to do the design you wanted in your 07? If Im not mistaken they have a bit more room behind the seat than the previous model and I can acquire a bottom depth of 11-10" w/o moving my seat. Wouldnt that be enough to have the 8s and port down firing onto another piece of wood?

I've always wanted to play with some 1508s and I like that design you talked about.

 
Im curious why you say you wont be able to do the design you wanted in your 07? If Im not mistaken they have a bit more room behind the seat than the previous model and I can acquire a bottom depth of 11-10" w/o moving my seat. Wouldnt that be enough to have the 8s and port down firing onto another piece of wood? I've always wanted to play with some 1508s and I like that design you talked about.
...I might can...I haven't done any real carefull measurements...but I have the carbon fiber dustcap DD 1008b's so I was wanting to show them off......I have 3 of 29 ever built DD 1008b's...then DD went to the 1508's...I'm not sure how many of the 29 had the full carbon fiber dustcap option.....but I'm pretty sure it wasn't many if any...because of the cost of this option on DD's base sub at the time....I'll also run 1 of the 4 made US Amps 100HC's built on a 2000x chasis...before the US Amps buyout....I own two of the 4 ......I have a matching heat sink US100 that will run on my door speakers...so the F150 will have some very rare car audio equipment in it....

 
get me some pics homie
a sneak peak with a couple of ED 12's installed.....//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

002.jpg


 
...I might can...I haven't done any real carefull measurements...but I have the carbon fiber dustcap DD 1008b's so I was wanting to show them off......I have 3 of 29 ever built DD 1008b's...then DD went to the 1508's...I'm not sure how many of the 29 had the full carbon fiber dustcap option.....but I'm pretty sure it wasn't many if any...because of the cost of this option on DD's base sub at the time....I'll also run 1 of the 4 made US Amps 100HC's built on a 2000x chasis...before the US Amps buyout....I own two of the 4 ......I have a matching heat sink US100 that will run on my door speakers...so the F150 will have some very rare car audio equipment in it....
Im drooling just reading this lol

If I do decide to grab up a few 1508s was that 2.5 cubes tuned @ 40 for 2 or 3 of them? I may plan around with some designs to see how possible it is. Right now staying at only 14" high Im getting 2.8 cubes sealed.

btw sorry for the thread jack

 
down firing will work better but they need about 5 inches between the sub and the floor to load....that also includes the port.....the port will need 4" behind it also inside the box....if you used a round port you can get by with 2.5 cu ft box and can use two 5" round ports 16" long....

 
down firing will work better but they need about 5 inches between the sub and the floor to load....that also includes the port.....the port will need 4" behind it also inside the box....if you used a round port you can get by with 2.5 cu ft box and can use two 5" round ports 16" long....
well I can easily go above 14" by building a box with a notch for the rib, Im just saying that at this height I already have that room so I may play around with some designs to get 2.5 cu ft with two of those ports. question though, can I get 5" aero ports or would they need to be pvc?

 
I'm going to try a corner loading slot port on mine...for space...that damm seatbelt buldge sucks on the back wall...I have considered an external port and loading off the drivers side to give me more box space...though I'd prefer the port loading on the passenger side to increase bass wave length

 
well I can easily go above 14" by building a box with a notch for the rib, Im just saying that at this height I already have that room so I may play around with some designs to get 2.5 cu ft with two of those ports. question though, can I get 5" aero ports or would they need to be pvc?
go PVC if you want to flare the end take a heat gun and heat it up while pressing firmly down on the pvc as its being heated against a concrete floor...you'll have to use a hammer to flatten the flares as it spreads out so they don't curl also.......make sure its a shop or carport concrete where a circular impression won't hurt anything just in case //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
I'm going to try a corner loading slot port on mine...for space...that damm seatbelt buldge sucks on the back wall...I have considered an external port and loading off the drivers side to give me more box space...though I'd prefer the port loading on the passenger side to increase bass wave length
I've also thought about external ports but wouldnt you be able to have one loading off the passenger side?

 
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